worked with my son this week on his 2000 disco 2. 156K miles on it. runs very well. but.....has 3 amigos...has for several years.

I pulled the codes on it and it had:

114 - shuttle valve electric failure
047 - rear right sensor low electrical signal

I implemented option B to address the shuttle valve failure which it did. We installed a new ABS wheel sensor on the rear passenger
side wheel. Cleaned the hole out best we could and installed the new one (all makes brand).

Then we cleared the ABS codes using ABS amigo...fired it up and no flashing symbols on dash. drove up street and same thing returns.

wheel speed sensor.

I take it you can verify that the sensor is working by doing an ohm test on the 2 leads and it gets 1032 ohms. I believe 900-2000 is the
proper range.

RE: the electrical signal it is supposed to produce when the wheel spins...is just spinning the wheel with it not connected to the harness
connector in the wheel well and probing the 2 pins for voltage the proper way of verifying that the hub and wheel speed sensor is working
as it should?

Also, for the connector in the wheel and the wire that runs up to the ECU...is there an easy way to test that out?

 

I haven’t needed to test a wheel speed sensor, so I don’t know for sure, but I think it produces a Sine or Square wave, not a measurable voltage.

 

ya, I saw a video on youtube where a guy connects a box the size of a cigarette pkg to the end of the sensor to test it out.

I'll bet that box is spendy.

 

I don’t have one, but I think that you can buy basic oscilloscopes for fairly cheap these days.

 

Yeah, square wave output. Oscope or some dvms or some scanners show output. Swap left to right for testing sensor.

 

I picked up a basic pocket silly scope several years back for around $30-$40. Looks like there are a few options on Amazon today that probably would work.

 

diagnosed the issue to the wheel bearing. hooked the volt meter up to the wheel sensor where it plugs into the harness and spun the wheel...get barely any signal
on the side reporting failure.

did the same on the drivers side and get 100-200 millivolts just spinning the wheel.

tried cleaning out the tone ring to no avail. a whack of crap built up inside. greasy oil, etc.

new wheel bearing + sensor incoming....

 

new rear passenger side wheel bearing installed. ABS lights are now off. case closed.

 

I pulled a rear hub yesterday off my 239k truck - oem hub - was ROARING going down the road - ABS worked fine

 

my son's rig has 155K miles. this was an original wheel bearing. there was a whack of oily grease that came out of the wheel sensor hole. He just put the new one in, plugged
in the sensor torqued the axle nut to spec and drove away. the ABS lights turned off. I had done option B on his ABS modulator in the engine bay already.