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2001 D2 is bogging down with moderate to full throttle

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  #11  
Old 06-09-2011 | 02:25 PM
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He must be British. work a treat - Wiktionary

I think here we would say "Works like a charm"
 
  #12  
Old 06-13-2011 | 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by sloan74
MAF sensor is actually a good call. Take it off and see if that makes a difference. It's easy to remove/replace if that's what it is. You could also try and clean it, if that's possible.
I unplugged the MAF and it died immediately.
 
  #13  
Old 06-13-2011 | 11:54 AM
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edit - I just read your other post. It's definitely not the MAF.
 
  #14  
Old 06-13-2011 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by sloan74
edit - I just read your other post. It's definitely not the MAF.
What ruled it out for you?
 
  #15  
Old 06-13-2011 | 12:19 PM
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That post said you pulled some codes. But that was after you washed the engine? How/what did you wash the engine with? That should not cause any codes unless you sprayed it with an elephant?
 
  #16  
Old 06-13-2011 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sloan74
That post said you pulled some codes. But that was after you washed the engine? How/what did you wash the engine with? That should not cause any codes unless you sprayed it with an elephant?
My original question was prior to my washing the engine bay this weekend. So, two different issues. The engine is missing since I washed it,.....no misfires when I originally posted.
 
  #17  
Old 06-13-2011 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bcolins
No codes,.....and it DOES rev to the 4500-5000 range with light throttle. Its only with more agressive throttle that it starts bogging.
May be different, but I had a similar situation a few years ago in my D1. The TPS wasn't throwing a code, but I unplugged it and it ran fine. So i determined it had to be that. Replaced it and all was good. The only problem with leaving it unplugged was that there was a slight hesitation at take-off from a stop and my MPG dropped. So unplug the TPS and see if that helps....

Eric
 
  #18  
Old 06-13-2011 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SDinDS
May be different, but I had a similar situation a few years ago in my D1. The TPS wasn't throwing a code, but I unplugged it and it ran fine. So i determined it had to be that. Replaced it and all was good. The only problem with leaving it unplugged was that there was a slight hesitation at take-off from a stop and my MPG dropped. So unplug the TPS and see if that helps....

Eric
Well, unplugged the TPS and fired it up......would only idle......any throttle at all and it would die.

Update: Since I unplugged the TPS,......and started it.....it died......now wont run at all even with the TPS reconnected!!

Cant recommend unplugging the TPS and running your truck folks.
 

Last edited by bcolins; 06-15-2011 at 10:42 AM.
  #19  
Old 06-16-2011 | 03:23 PM
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Default Update: Now June 16th. Only code is 1590 and truck has even LESS power now.

Mike, All, I thought I would give you guys a few days off....and had some other things to take care of. The truck got so bad,...it wouldnt run at all after I unplugged the TPS (and plugged it back in)......so, I have been driving my old 85 Mercedes with no air conditioning,...and it was 104 yesterday. Whew! Here are my latest observations on the D2.

As mentioned earlier, the Truck was starting quickly and idling smoothly, but would NOT accept anything beyond moderate throttle,....so, had to drive very carefully and not pull out in front of anyone. It was firing on all 8 cylinders and power was even with a smooth exhaust note,....just no power.....with anything more than moderate throttle,.....the truck would fall on its face and begin backfiring occasionally in the intake. Feeling a LITTLE bit like low fuel pressure,...but without all the backfiring out the exhaust I normally have heard with other cars with clogged fuel filters, wrong fuel pump( with incorrect volume or pressure) or clogged tank outlet strainer.

It was suggested here to pull the connector off the MAF and see if it made a difference.....it did,..it died immediately,.....and it has also been suggested to pull the connector off the Throttle position sensor.............did that and although it would idle,........it would not accept any throttle at all.................would backfire in the intake if I tried to add throttle.

After pulling the TPS,.......and then re-plugging it in,.....I drove it around the block,.....no change. Shut it off and called it quits for the night. Next morning, the truck would start, then run for only 1-4 seconds..............it ran .smoothly on all cylinders,....then would die....................did this MANY times,....then tried pumping the gas pedal..........I did manage to keep it running by pumping the gas pedal.......but not well enough to drive it,….after a minute or two of keeping it running with lots of throttle pumping,…..it would hold a steady rpm…..about 2500 without having to pump the pedal. Did that for about a minute…………….and then it would idle on its own. I put it in gear and accelerated,….just like before………it would only take a small amount of throttle without faltering and backfiring in the intake. I drove it for about 5 minutes in my community, it was struggling to go any faster than about 35 mph. When I returned, I checked for any codes with my Actron scanner,…and I only had the ABS code 1590. I cleared that code and shut it down.
This morning was more or less a repeat; reluctant to start,…..throttle pumping to keep it running,… then after a minute or two,….it would idle on its own and I could drive it as long as I barely gave it any throttle at all. Just got back from about a 10 mile drive where I could eventually get it up to about 50 mph, and checked the codes again: I still only have code 1590.

A friend thinks It is low fuel pressure,….I think it is somehow fuel or mixture related,….maybe the MAF or TPS,….but the two tests suggested here or unplugging them,…seems to indicate that they are working at least at SOME level.

I have posted a query to the local Land rover forum to see if anyone would let me swap in a known good MAF to see if it fixes the problem,..so far, no takers. I’m on an extremely tight budget right now as a result of having lost my job a year ago,……so just randomly throwing parts at it is NOT really an option,….want to determine what is wrong and fix only that.

PS: Yesterday, I remembered that my well meaning friend had pressed the inertia switch on the firewall the night before,....so I went out and pushed it again thinking that maybe it had not reset when he pushed it. No change,....I unplugged the intertia switch and no change, when I plugged it back in.....all my flashers were now flashing, I closed the hood and all doors and locked it to see if I could reset the alarm/immobilizer,......no change, so I pulled the negative battery terminal off and left it off for a few minutes. Upon re connecting the battery,....the emergency flashers were now off, and it did restart, but again required the throttle pumping to keep it going until it had run for a few minutes almost as if whatever cold start mechanism the D2 uses,...was not operative.

Guys, really need some help here. I've blown through most of my retirement account since losing my job,...and frankly, I've got to get the Disco sorted out and sold just to make next months mortgage.

Suggestions?
 
  #20  
Old 06-16-2011 | 04:00 PM
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Might be time to bring in the big guns and get in touch with Disco Mike directly over the phone. Send him a PM with a link to this thread and see if he'd be able to give you a call.
 


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