If your not getting spark then it is a bad crank sensor.
$70 and a 1 hour DIY.

Or do this, tell the mechanic that since he suggested coils and he was wrong to throw a crank sensor into it.
If he puts up to much of a fight tell him he does the work for free but you will bring him the part.

 

What kind of mechanic makes a diagnosis, does a repair, then charges you for what he did, even though it didn't change anything and it still won't start? I would definitely not be paying that bill. Are you sure the wires are routed correctly? Did the mechanic confirm you aren't getting spark, but are getting fuel to the engine?

I also would try the crankshaft sensor like Spike suggested.

 

Just a little rant...why is it only mechanics we can do this with and not Dr's?
I mean you get sick and go to the Dr, he "tries" to fix you, you dont get fixed but you still have to pay.
What makes them so special?

 

That is a good point Spike. I can only guess it is because doctors are held in such high regard due to the extensive training they have to go through before they can practise. True, mechanics may go through training, and can receive qualifications and certifications, but that isn't necessary before they can open a shop. Some repair shops require ASE certifications and the like from their mechanics, but any Joe Blow with no experience may open his own shop and start turning wrenches. Just try to open a medical practise with no certifications, and see how long before the law is on you!!

I've been trying, but cannot think of a good analogy between the medical and automotive field. Normally, doctors are on the right track. It may take a few different prescriptions to find the right one, but most of the medicines are doing more or less similar things. Doctors aren't prescribing a decongestant to fix athlete's foot.

If I went to a doctor for allergies, and he recommended a suppository, I wouldn't pay that bill either.

I work at an automotive repair shop, and even with the ASE techs we have, there are a few misdiagnoses. When that happens, the customer isn't charged for the part replaced that didn't fix the problem. The original part is reinstalled, and the further diagnosis to find the needed repair is usually discounted to make up for the mistake. Sometimes, it may take a few steps to completely fix the problem: no start. spark, but no fuel pressure. no voltage at fuel pump. voltage to the fuel pump relay, but not past. diagnosis? bad relay. relay is replaced. still no start. voltage now present at fuel pump, but pump inoperable. fuel pump replaced, and vehicle starts. The tech was on the right path, but until one bad part is replaced, they may not know about other bad parts further down the line.

 

Sorry I didn't notice this second page, so i haven't replied. But I did replace the crankshaft position sensor. That was one of the first things I tried after reading in here. The mechanic did check for fuel and it was there. He also said it was not getting good spark, that's when he replaced the plugs and wires. I'm a little peeved at him and I might be a sucker for paying him, but its over with.

Anyway, I had it towed down to a local club shop, "North Texas Rover". I really hope they can do something and not too expensive.

Thanks everyone for all your ongoing input!

 

PLEASE let us know what you find.

 

I talked to Alan, the owner at North Texas Rover, and it still is not fixed. He said he has 2 more things to try, if these two things don't fix it he said he is going to give up. It has been 5 weeks in 2 different shop's, and I'm starting to contemplate parting it out.
I know my signature says "still in love", but..............

 

What the heck does "not getting "good" spark" mean? Either it's getting spark or it's not. Or it's missing. Which is it? Did he check every cylinder spark plug? What kind of wires and plugs did he use? If he used some generic junk (sound like that kinda guy) then you may not be finished with your plugs n wires job. Also when it cranks is it smooth or does it miss? Those plugs wires are easy to get slopperjawed.

The way you had intermittent failure before this complete shutdown it sounds like an electrical component like the crank sensor. Does anybody how test a component like that? I'm no automotive electrician...

 

Thanks Tom for the input, I'm not sure what "not good spark" means, I'm just repeating the mechanic. He did say he used OEM plugs and wires. While cranking, it's smooth like it always has been right before it starts. I had replaced the Crank Shaft Position Sensor right after reading here. But it didn't help.

Thanks again for all the help!

Matthew

 

I'm anxiously waiting for an update! My 00' Disco is having the EXACT same problems! No spark. Changed crank sensor (x3, just in case I got a bad one), wiring harness, ECU, just got new coils in the mail (but from your post I bet it won't help).

I'd love to hear what the dealer says and what they have tried. I hope they were able to 'save' yours.