I beg to differ on this point. Many years ago my Amigos appeared. I had no scanner to diagnose the issue, but took a shot in the dark and pulled and tested resistance values on the shuttle valve switches - they failed the test. I replaced the switches, started the vehicle, and the Amigos were gone. No scanner was ever used. Years later when they reappeared, again no scanner, but I was able to diagnose as an internal problem in the SLABS ECU. I replaced the ECU with a known good unit, started the vehicle, and the Amigos were gone. It has been about a year and a half since then, and they have not returned.

The Amigos will remain until the issue causing them has been resolved. Once the ECU determines the problem is gone, it extinguishes the lights.

 

Well I beg to differ on your point so there, take that..... , and that.... because . Now

There are permanent faults (or hard faults) and non-permanent faults. If the computer detects a permanent fault like the shuttle valve switch or throttle position signal fault the ECU will resort to default settings until the problem is fixed AND CLEARED from memory. If a non permanent fault is detected the default settings will be activated each engine cycle until the problem is fixed and no longer detected.

 

Roverguy, I am fully aware of what it says in the RAVE. I am just speaking from personal experience. I did the shuttle valve fix about, I am guessing, six years ago. I did not have a scanner that could pull Rover ABS codes until this past Christmas. To be fair, since it was so long ago, and since I have worked on several D2s since then, my memory may be slightly muddled.
I don't remember if the Amigos were intermittent originally, or if they appeared at every key cycle. I do remember that the most recent bout of Amigos (for which the SLABS ECU was the fix) were intermittent at first, then became more and more frequent, then always there.
When I did the shuttle valve switch and seal replacement, as well as option 'B' wiring repair, the battery was disconnected (which I also know from experience will not clear a "permanent" fault).
I do remember a time having only the ABS light illuminated after doing some work/diagnosis. That light extinguished once I got to the RAVE referenced speed. I think that was when I was checking resistance on ABS sensors, and had unplugged them with ignition on.

So, either my original repair of the shuttle valves was a misdiagnosis on my part, and somehow some other ABS fault was fixed in the process and remained fixed for years, or someone cleared my codes secretly. Rave could also be misleading in this case. I seem to remember the number of bolts on the timing cover being different than what RAVE states for example.

I replied to your saying "No matter what the issue you will need to have the lights reset after the repair..." which you just showed is NOT the case with ABS sensors.

 

Well I replied to the part where you said, "The Amigos will remain until the issue causing them has been resolved. Once the ECU determines the problem is gone, it extinguishes the lights" which I also just showed is NOT the case. The difference in our advice is that I suggested the correct way of doing things (with a scanner that can read and clear ABS codes) and you gave, in my opinion, poor advice about not needing a scanner at all.

Maybe you should of done things the correct way and read the trouble codes before jumping head first into a fix. I'm not sure giving someone advise to try and fix there problems without knowing the problem is good advice, even if it worked for you. Perhaps your first step should of been an ABS amigo or scanner to read the ABS fault codes and then you wouldn't be inserting your foot in your mouth and giving people bad advice.

That mistake in the RAVE is a simple number mistake like someone that writes a 6 instead of a 9. An easy mistake to overlook. Now you are taking that example, and are telling me that you think they wrote down/made up, a whole page of information about the ABS faults by mistake? It's not like misspelling a word or getting a number wrong FFS, they would literally have to fabricate this information out of midair to make that stuff up. That is highly unlikely and you are really reaching for an excuse now. Come on, bring it back down to earth Morpheus. Your head has gotten too big and you are floating away.

My bad Mr. Miyagi, I wasn't aware that you had read all 1526 pages in the RAVE and knew absolutely everything. Maybe you should start the "lordmorpheus knows all" D2 forum so that all of us dumb $hits can learn from the master.
I thought you made an honest mistake and didn't know that you had to clear some codes with a scanner but I guess you knew that already and just choose to give incorrect information on purpose. The facts are that he will be needing a scanner to find out 100% what the problem is and more then likely he will need that same scanner to clear the codes from memory. He can guess at the problems like you, but that is a half a$$ed way of doing things for sure.
Do it once, do it right! There are many, many members on here that will rent there personal ABS amigo for dirt cheap or even free to locals, so there really is no excuse to not getting a scanner to read and clear the codes. Unless of course you are cheap a$$, in which case you probably shouldn't own a Rover in the first place.

 

So I took the disco to a garage today and had the ABS codes read. We cleared the codes and all three light were back on before leaving the parking lot. The codes that were reported are:
87 - Pump Relay (Open Circuit)
89 - Front Right Sensor (Output Too Low)
112 - Rear Right Outlet Valve (Internal Supply)
117 - Front Right Sensor (Output Intermittent)

Does anyone have experience with these codes?

 

check your right front hub for one.
the last time i got output too low or intermittent the hub bearings were shot, all that play was giving the sensor little or no input

 

What he^^^ said. That sensor or hub is more then likely bad.