You can attach $10 volt meter at pump connector and verify you have volts coming there. Would not rush out and buy pump to find out you have bad relay, inertia switch, wiring, connector, fuse, etc. Good thing is that if your are making sparks, the immobilization is not active.

 

Tested that connector. No voltage. Key off, position 2, start... nothing. Swapped relays for fuel pump already. Nothing. I took out the inertia switch and gave it a tap to trip it, reset it, plugged it back in and hooked up battery ground. Still nothing. I'm Definitely not an electrical genius.

 

I now have voltage at the fuel pump connector but only when the key is turned to start. No voltage with key in position 2. Is this normal??? Still no fuel being pumped. Still have spark... Any ideas would be appreciated!!

 

Normally only have volts for a couple of seconds in position 2. If working alone, you might not make it from driver position to meter in 2 seconds.

 

Since my local parts store won't loan a code reader, which makes/models should I buy?

I did have someone turn the key while I watched the volt meter. I can't remember exactly what voltage I was getting in the start position but it was somewhere b/t 5-6 volts, which doesn't seem right to me...

 

Check volts across battery in position 2, should be above 12 volts. This also verifys your technique using the meter, qualifies you as an electrical apprentice. Over in the plumbing union, things are harder; they have to remeber hot's on left, cold's on the right, and poop won't run uphill.

The pump connector could have corrosion, this can be scrubbed away with a small metal brush (switch off). The ground for the pump is actually under the hood, there is a metal bonding strip next to the fuse box with multiple studs and black wires on it, all should be clean and tight.

Scanners can be UltraGauge OBDII Scan tool & Information Center for $70, or a code reader for $45 at WalMart. Or apps for a smart phone.

 

Thanks again. I had already cleaned all the ground studs next to the fusebox and ground wire terminations. But as my brain becomes even more fried trying to figure this out, I appreciate hearing car repair "101". Those simple tasks can sometimes be forgotten/overlooked. I'll test the battery today as you mentioned. What sort of volt drop should I expect (as normal) with a load on the system?

I'll get a scanner as quickly as possible, can't wait to see what other issues I might have.

As for the plumbing reference, I've met those guys... they'll turn their back to the faucet and say "See, now the hot water is on the left..."

 

If truck with lights on is less than 10 volts (not running) then battery is pretty weak. If you have run the battery down trying to start you may need to boost it back up or put a charger on it.

Note - if battery goes dead when truck is locked, and you boost the dead battery, hold the hood switch down first. Alarm will wake up and immobilze engine.

 

Thanks for the advice. In northern Michigan we don't lock vehicles (now everyone knows, I predict a rise in vehicle theft up here).
Taking battery to get tested.

 

Update... pulled fuel pump today. Removed filter screen so I could see the impeller. Put power to the pump and nothing but a slight sound, but no movement. Just sent a message to Paul Grant. Just in case, any other suggestions for used parts?