Last night I finished installing the new engines on my 01 d2 tried to start it but only cranked would not catch. Only spent a little time since it was getting dark trying to sort it out but here is what I have found/ tried so far

Tach does not move when cranking the engine is this normal my d1 would bouncy as the engine turned over

No fuel only had 6 volts to pump harness will clean up the ground tonight and recheck also could be the due to the battery since it was dead and I was trying to jump it

Pump works when hot wired and inertia switch not tripped engine would not catch with hot wired running pump

Will be swapping out the crankshaft sensor after I check it there is spark ( should have been the first thing I checked but came with the running engine so just stupidly skipped over it) this is probably the cause I came up with after a night of sleep and a fresh brain

Checked and rechecked all connections they are good and connected

Anything else I could be missing I am pretty savvy when it came to the d1 but things are a little different on the d2 just want to make sure im not missing something simple

 

Spark. CKP could be unplugged.

Good fuel pressure. Pump runs for about 2 seconds when key in position 2.

Fuses - injectors won't squirt if no 12 volts to one side, ECU grounds the other to pulse them.

Codes?

 

Ckp is plugged in but it I have to recheck I didn't do something stupid like put the spacers on the wrong side of the sensor

I will be checking for codes this afternoon after I pick up my code reader

Any particular fuse to check for the injectors?

Also checking fuel pressure need to borrow a gauge from the local parts store

Thanks for the quick reply buzz

 

Fuse 1 in under hood box.

What was wrong with the old engine? How much did the replacement set you back? Just so others will know if they must roll down this trail.

 

I bought the truck with a slipped liner with the heads and all of the upper engine in the back after it had been to the dealership and the previous owner did not want to pay the 11k quoted from the dealer

The new engine tested, ran and out of a low mileage truck was fairly cheap at 700 with a warranty. I then replaced all gaskets oil pump and timing gears so basically rebuilt it except for the bearings which were check and looked great and piston rings for another 300 or so in parts and a weekend of my time.

I bought the d2 as an upgrade from my 96 d1 which ran and drove great just wasn't there cosmetically and the D2 was a 1 owner dealer maintained car which was in perfect shape even the dealer tech which did the tear down and diagnosis on the slipped liner said he had never seen one in this good of shape

So all said and done fingers crossed after selling the d1 and purchasing the new truck, engine, and parts I should be out of pocket less than a couple hundred buck and 2 weekends of my time for a perfect example of a d2 with a basically rebuilt engine

That's if I can get this thing fired up anytime so with out throwing a ton of money and time at it.

I would like to think of myself as pretty good mechanically and anyone with the rave, a torque wrench and a decent set of sockets should be able to replace an engine and freshen it up for under 2000 easily with in a few weekends if they were willing to.

I am sure it is something little and minor that I am overlooking as to why the truck isn,t starting and with a fresh set of eyes today and some of the points you previously listed I should have it wrapped up tonight

 

The CKP is what drives the tach on the D2, via the ECU. On a D1 it is a lead from the alternator.

 

I thought it was a sensor that drove it do you know if it "bounces" during cranking or is it dead till engine start up?

If it should be bouncing during start up that is where I shall begin can't get to it till this afternoon after I get out of flight school so just desktop trouble shooting till then

 

I'd first check Crank position Sensor and make sure you did't install the spacers first and then the sensor which of course would give you no indication of crank rotation.

 

Back in the cobwebs I seem to recall that the CEL at start somehow indicates if CKP pulses are being detected. It has to make about 80 rpm or the ECU won't supply the rest of commands to make engine start. Others will comment. But a spare plug attached to a wire, and laid on the manifold is a good test. Note that it is considered bad form to have GF or SWMBO hold the spark plug whilst testing.

 

Swapped out the ckp started right up still don't know why it went dead in a matter of days sitting in my garage but it did

Thanks for the help guys

Now to pray to the rover gods everything I did holds up and I can enjoy the truck