2002 DII low oil pressure @ 133k - what to do?
#1
2002 DII low oil pressure @ 133k - what to do?
OK, so bought my daughter a slightly newer DII, replacing her 2000. Got an OP gauge on it and the OP is lower than the 184k mile 2000 model. 15w40 idles at 10psi hot, runs about 23 at 1700 rpm, never higher than 36psi. Switched to 20w50 and improved to 11psi.
Really disappointed because her 2000 always had 20-22 psi at idle and would go as high as 45 driving.
So I have several questions for the guys that have been through it:
1. Better to do oil pump, or engine bearings, or both?
2. Given the engine's mileage, is it worth it or should I just have her drive it till it finally spins a bearing? Is the top end likely worn out also (looks like PO did not diligently change the oil)?
Other than this issue it seems to be a good truck - everything works and my thinking was that this truck would likely have fewer problems with the transmission and driveline due to the lower miles.
Any advice is appreciated
Really disappointed because her 2000 always had 20-22 psi at idle and would go as high as 45 driving.
So I have several questions for the guys that have been through it:
1. Better to do oil pump, or engine bearings, or both?
2. Given the engine's mileage, is it worth it or should I just have her drive it till it finally spins a bearing? Is the top end likely worn out also (looks like PO did not diligently change the oil)?
Other than this issue it seems to be a good truck - everything works and my thinking was that this truck would likely have fewer problems with the transmission and driveline due to the lower miles.
Any advice is appreciated
#4
Those number do seem low. I would install new oil pump gears and timing chain kit while I was in there. After I installed new oil gears and timing chain (at 100K miles)I have been at 16-18psi the lowest and around 50-52psi on the highway. Those numbers have stayed consistent for 64k miles and over 2 1/2 years now. (I run 15w-40)
As for the upper end and bearings. I was also considering throwing in a new cam, lifters, and main and rod bearings, but I decided to wait to do that job for the next major rebuild/service project at hopefully close to 200k. Unless you have a bad knock or tick, I would leave the bearings and cam and lifters alone for now.
In my 100k mile service I did the head gasket kit (it comes with a ton of gaskets, seals, and o-rings), O2 sensors, oil pump gears, timing chain, new T-Stat and hoses, plugs, 8mm wires, and an all around fluids change. (I'm sure I missed some stuff) Here is the thread I made when I did my 100k mile service>>>>> https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...o-month-47324/
As for the upper end and bearings. I was also considering throwing in a new cam, lifters, and main and rod bearings, but I decided to wait to do that job for the next major rebuild/service project at hopefully close to 200k. Unless you have a bad knock or tick, I would leave the bearings and cam and lifters alone for now.
In my 100k mile service I did the head gasket kit (it comes with a ton of gaskets, seals, and o-rings), O2 sensors, oil pump gears, timing chain, new T-Stat and hoses, plugs, 8mm wires, and an all around fluids change. (I'm sure I missed some stuff) Here is the thread I made when I did my 100k mile service>>>>> https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...o-month-47324/
Last edited by Jared9220; 07-30-2014 at 10:20 PM.
#5
#6
Those were the same numbers I was seeing with a broken oil pump on my 03. Replaced the pump and the oil pressure is fantastic now. I'd pull it apart and take a look at the pump. If the rotor is cracked, and I'll bet it is, slap a new one in along with a timing chain and be happy.
You are the second one to mention a chain - with 133k miles do we expect the chain to be worn? I am used to Chevy engines and those chains go 250k no problem?
#9
My Oil pressures are now as follows:
62 PSI Stone Cold everywhere
50 PSI Fully hot @ 1700 rpm and 188F coolant temp
20-28 PSI Fully hot @ slow idle depending on how hot I got the oil
This is with Shell Rotella 15W40 and MANN/Purolator L40316 filter
Hope that helps.
62 PSI Stone Cold everywhere
50 PSI Fully hot @ 1700 rpm and 188F coolant temp
20-28 PSI Fully hot @ slow idle depending on how hot I got the oil
This is with Shell Rotella 15W40 and MANN/Purolator L40316 filter
Hope that helps.
Thanks for the information, that was just what I was looking for was some experience if it was the oil pump or the bearings. What did your pressures recover to?
You are the second one to mention a chain - with 133k miles do we expect the chain to be worn? I am used to Chevy engines and those chains go 250k no problem?
You are the second one to mention a chain - with 133k miles do we expect the chain to be worn? I am used to Chevy engines and those chains go 250k no problem?
#10
If memory serves, the L40316 has a much higher bypass valve pressure than the stock filter, so creates a higher pressure going into the filter (which is where the sensor usually is).
No one has yet posted output pressure numbers, which would be very helpful in deciding whether this filter is a good idea or not. People guess that the larger filter media allows enough flow to counteract the restrictive bypass valve, but we have no actual data to support it.
Also, the higher bypass pressure likely causes oil starvation when the oil is cold or at high rpms, which is very bad for engine wear.
Here's a couple of pertinent posts:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e4/#post296690
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...22/#post414763
No one has yet posted output pressure numbers, which would be very helpful in deciding whether this filter is a good idea or not. People guess that the larger filter media allows enough flow to counteract the restrictive bypass valve, but we have no actual data to support it.
Also, the higher bypass pressure likely causes oil starvation when the oil is cold or at high rpms, which is very bad for engine wear.
Here's a couple of pertinent posts:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e4/#post296690
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...22/#post414763