I'm leaving this forum and have deleted all my work in this thread.

 

Have you ever heard, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"?
Why would you do head gaskets or a t/case reseal.
Save your money and do what does need to be done to any new high mileage Disco and follow my list at the top of this section along with rebuild/replacing the front drive shaft if it hasn't been done yet. Do not flush the tranny just do a conventional drain and refill with a new filter. Also get rid of the Decool coolant and shift over to one of the better green coolants.
As for the CDL, odds are your t/case has it and all you need is a linkage, be it a D1 or 04.

 

Agree with Mike... Why waste money on a new MAF assuming you have no problems with your existing one? My t-case has been leaking for 2 years and topped it off the other day, a whopping 1 squirt from the pump till it overflowed. Wait till your head gaskets actually go bad to do everything else.

 

I am not OK with anything leaking but there are leaks and then there are LEAKS. Where exactly is it leaking from?
As for the coolant leak, consider the new German made water pump British Parts of Utah is offering, for about $145 you get a 2 year warranty and a solid brass impellor, make sure to do the t/stat, pressure cap and get rid of the Dexcool.
When done, do a pressure test and see if you have a head gasket leaking.
Have fun with the project.

 

Well, while you are doing all this consider pulling radiator for an indy shop flush out or replace (old Dexcool, etc.). Be sure the thermostat you add is OEM.

Oil leaks from above can frequently be valve cover gaskets that need snugging up.

If coolant system and engine still in running condition, consider the $50 exhaust gas in coolant test, would confirm your HG diagnosis, and after the work (it makes multiple tests) confirm that there is none in there.

 

I just ordered and overnighted this pump to give the shop doing my HG. Appears to be the best option out there.

 

I would not be worried about that coolant leak. Its slow. It may be dripping all the way back from your throttle body heater on the top of your valve cover. The oil showing on the back side of your engine may also be from leaky valve cover gaskets. Dont change your head gaskets till you really need to.

When removing your drive shafts a 9/16" socket works best with a 6" extension. You can leave the transfer case in Hi and put the transmission in neutral spin 2 opposite wheels of each other and your drive shafts will turn. Its easiest to take those off if you have drive up ramps. More room to work!

 

A little late but a wobble extention makes it easier to get to the nuts. Also remember to replace those nuts, i know LR say to replace every freaking nut every time. But in this case they are correct those are nylock nuts and are only design to be used one time.

 

I will tell you right now. If you have a "oil/coolant leak" (grayish sludgey oil leak) above your starter... that is the rear port leaking at the head gasket. Just got done doing that myself. Actually I have 101k on my D2 and ALL 4 coolant ports were leaking from the head gasket. That's BOTH heads and BOTH FRONT AND REAR coolant ports on each head. ALL were leaking. That oil gray sludge was present on all places. You couldn't see the rear leaks tho. Too much stuff in the way. Once I removed the front accessory brackets you could really see it.

 

that looks pretty gunked up. You were planing on flushing the engine, is there any change compared to when you did your valve cover and now after flushing the engine?