I would suggesting pulling and checking every fuse as well as checking all the relays, the fuel system is pretty simple really but very electrically bound, bad grounds or marginal fuse/relay can affect it.

 

Every fuse and relay as well as the fuse boxes have been changed for known good ones.

I can also turn on and off the fuel pump with the iLand device but still no start.

Compression tested every cylinder, and while there was variance in pressures it has enough to start.

It seems pump is not turning on with ignition and injectors are not firing.... What controls those things?

 

@Yellow Kalahari Just so I have we know :

• You have confirmed spark
• Fuel pump turns on when you test via the Iland device
• Engine turns over (I know obvious)
• fuses and relays checked and replaced

Reading RAVE pages 18-2-14/15 the Cam Shaft Position sensor can cause a no start

Also go through 18 -2 -30 which covers the injectors and the ECM plug info but you should get a code unless fuse 1 in the engine compartment is no good

 

Richard Gallant - Affirmative to all your bullet points.

Fuses and relays have been checked/replaced with known good ones multiple times now. Along with the entire fuse block in both locations.

Fuel pump works just fine when turned on with iLand device. 10 gallons in tank.

Cam position Sensor has NOT been changed...... 2 reasons: 1) it is a PITA to get to. 2) I have another Discovery II that I managed to disconnect the Cam Sensor plug on.....it still started right up. I am not opposed to changing it out....and now it is high on the suspect list. But for reason number 2 above I am not too hopeful it will make a lot of difference. (It would be nice if I am wrong). Anyone know a way to test it in situ?

Crank position Sensor has been changed to one from a running parts vehicle.

I have read thru the referenced RAVE pages...... Maybe I was one too many Gin & Tonics in at the time.... but nothing jumped out at me as a possible solution.

Further inputs appreciated........... this yellow thing is driving me nuts.

 

This might be your issue

From here

https://www.landroversonly.com/threa...-start.155129/If you swap either the BCU or the ECM you have to make the ECM learn the security code and i doubt that a generic scanner can do that cos it's not in the OBDII protocol but each module has to be programmed directly. Missing that the engine will crank but not fire. Maybe first time the passive immobiliser was tripped and that was the reason of non starting and that's the result of not unlocking the vehicle with a programmed fob... IMO you'll not be able to fix this without using a dedicated diagnostic tool which can make the ECM learn the security code

you need a tester with these functions(copied from Nanocom EVO guide)

BOSCH MOTRONIC M5.2.1 - Diagnostic Capabilities (UTILITY)

· Discovery Security Learn: This function forces theMotronic ECU to learn the incoming
code from the BCU in a Discovery Series II as its correct mobilization code.
· Reset adaptive values: The adaptive values should be reset if any of the following
components have been renewed or rectified: fuel injector, lambda sensor, fuel pump,
fuel rail,MAFS, inlet manifold, after fixing an air leak or if a new ECU was fitted.

 

There's a fuse, l believe it was #23, for the coil packs and the ignition relay can cause no spark. Both are in the drivers footwell fuse box, relay is left lower corner, yellow.

Apologies, if this doesn't fit your problem, no spark issue, read through entire topic this morning, wrote a lengthy post and then got called away...so...l'm working off memory here.

Brian.

 

Thanks for the ideas....

Both the ECM and the BCU (along with dash cluster, all fuse boxes and transmission control boxes) came matched from a running driving parts car. Would that not mean the ECM and BCU already are 'matched'? Also I read that if they are not matched then leaving the ignition on for 10 minutes would sync them? I have also tried this.

Put a new set of plugs and a squirt of gas in each cylinder this morning....it 'chuffed' a little as if it was trying to start. Confirmed it still has good strong spark with inline tester. Also turned on fuel pump relay with relay testing unit, could hear pump come on....cranked it...nothing. The issue seems to be injectors are not opening along with fuel pump not turning on with ignition.

Camshaft position sensor is up next.......

 

Just because the pump is running...doesn't mean it's making correct pressure. The pump does not come on when you turn the key on, like most vehicles (3/7 seconds). It only comes on when rotation is determined by the crank sensor. Crank sensor informs ECU that there is engine rotation, ECU sends ground signal to fuel pump relay, relay has power from ignition already by turning ignition key, and relay sends power to pump. However, like mentioned earlier...if the pump is no good, running but not building proper pressure...it will not start. You need to verify fuel pressure.

l thought l read somewhere thst you didn't have spark...apologies.

Brian.

 

Copy. I have not pressure tested fuel pump with a gauge. However..... after cranking the engine I have released schrader valve with screwdriver - there has been zero to very little pressure. When I do the same thing with the pump turned on remotely the pressure is considerable. That makes me think the pump is ok.

Next things on my list are to test the injector plugs for signal, also replace cam sensor.

After that....... sell it for scrap?! lol

 

Let me buy it before you scrap it!! I love yellow LR's. I'd replace the CPS and go from there.