Hello all,
I notice by brake light flashed a few times and then stayed on steady. Installed new pads front and rear. Pushed the cylinders back cleaned everything up. The DBA rotors were within spec of proper thickness so I did not change them. The pads were really worn down but not touching steel on rotor. I had about 1.5mm left. Anyways after that, my brake light is still on in the instrument cluster. I have played with the float on cap of the brake fluid reservoir. It does not make the light go out. I have also put the E-brake up and down a few times.
The pedal is nice and solid, brakes are strong. Brakes were bled with in the last 6 months when I fixed the Amigos. Any ideals would be appreciated. No brake squeal and the new pads seem to be bedding in nicely after about 60 miles.

How would I go about testing the switch on the float? I have a multimeter!

 

Could one of the sensor wires got knocked loose during the install?

 

I have the ABS Amigo I can check that. I made sure just to remove the calipers, never to bump the sensor wires. In order to mess with the wires you have to remove the rotors. I just swapped for new pads. Rotors looks near perfect with no grooves or vibration.

 

See attached page from electrical library, it matches the connector C0026 from the notes on the wiring diagram for instruments. Remove plug from switch. Should read "open", or same reading you get with probes not touching. If it reads anything else it could try to turn on light. It is not a sensor, just a dumb switch.

Actually don't need a meter. If light is on, unplug; if light clears, switch is the source of the connection. If light stays on, it could be the ebrake switch. Both ebrake and low fluid light the same bulb. See pix of brake switch (C0091), hope you don't have to enter the console. Shake the ebrake lever first.

 

Man! I wish it was that easy. Just went outside and unplugged the master cylinder cap. Fiddled with it. Light on steady. Fiddled with the E-Brake handle...not a flicker steady on.

I am comfortable taking apart the console from doing my CDL. That switch looks buried..yikes. I have looked for that switch on AB but have not located it yet. Any other thoughts would be appciated.

 

Connector C0293, cut wire from pin 15 to remove hand brake switch from circuit and leave low brake fluid working. See attached. Or break apart there to detect any grounded wiring.

 

Thanks Savannah, Your like the encyclopedia of the Discovery

 

Just an old pre-gps map reader, following those lines on the schematic, with a mind like a steel trap - rusted shut! I like the RAVE for the D2, with color wiring diagrams, and color pix of almost every connector, on the world's cleanest Disco. I wish our site would configure to allow the RAVE in sections for on-line access, more people would look at it, and the site could get more views of ads (something has to pay for all this fun and the annual bonus to Spike and Mike, shown below...)

 

Off topic, a little and not causing this issue, but did you do a full 2 quart DOT brake flush after replacing the pad? Have you tested your float switch with an OHM meter?

 

I did a full flush about 5 months ago this past fall. I removed about 1\2 cup of brake fluid to accommodate for the new thickness of brake pads. The brake fluid is up to the max fill line. Light is still on. I am testing to see if the hand brake switch is bad today. Which I doubt, but its my next step. The float on the master cylinder seems fine, but does not turn the light off by removing the plug from the cap. If that switch is not bad then I'm stumped.