2003 Brake light still on after new pad install
#11
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when I did rotors and pads I got some small squealing and triggered the brake light on as a fault, you may have done the same, you need an amigos scanner or someone with the proper software to delete the code. Took my disco to an indie shop and they cleared it for a one time no charge fee....
#13
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Yes I have the 3 Amigos on and have gotten a 1590 rough road code. I was able to clear that with the Scanguage. I rent the ABS Amigo and its out in Washington State at the moment. I will get it back next week so I can do a scan. I didn't think the amigos affected the brake light as that it has never come on till my pad wear was close.
Does anyone know the correct numbers for a ohm test on on the master cylinder brake cap?
Does anyone know the correct numbers for a ohm test on on the master cylinder brake cap?
#15
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Ok so I did the test from the RAVE on the Handbrake. Removed Pin 15 from connector CO293. Brake light is still on. Also it turns on the Sport mode light. I also checked pins on the connector to the master cylinder cap. Made sure they were touching well on the pins plus added dielectric grease. Still no change. I'm thinking of having a brake shop take a look for free. They may see something obvious. I have no brake squeal rubbing noises. Pedal is firm and brake reservoir is filled to max.
#16
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Dave, I will be utilizing your thread as a resource to help resolve my light problems as well. Hopefully you don't mind.
All 4 of my lights (brake,ABS, TC, and down hill) come on all at once and go off all at once. not all the time, but getting worse.
So My problems originated shortly after installing my lift kit and going wheeling for the first time. I have a 2" Rovertym springs. I noticed that my rear brake lines look streched pretty good, not sure if this could be casuing my lights. My rotors squeak sometimes, my rear ones are toast because idiot me while in a hurry to get my tires on after doing lift put rear right outside pad in backwards (I know how does that happen lol) it just took me a minute after test drive to figure that out. So that rotor needs replaced and will be soon.
So what are some easy things I can do prior to borrowing Dave's scanner to help narrow down the cause?
All 4 of my lights (brake,ABS, TC, and down hill) come on all at once and go off all at once. not all the time, but getting worse.
So My problems originated shortly after installing my lift kit and going wheeling for the first time. I have a 2" Rovertym springs. I noticed that my rear brake lines look streched pretty good, not sure if this could be casuing my lights. My rotors squeak sometimes, my rear ones are toast because idiot me while in a hurry to get my tires on after doing lift put rear right outside pad in backwards (I know how does that happen lol) it just took me a minute after test drive to figure that out. So that rotor needs replaced and will be soon.
So what are some easy things I can do prior to borrowing Dave's scanner to help narrow down the cause?
#17
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I'm going to bump this back up to the top. For a follow up on this thread. Does anyone know if an Indy repair shop with a scanner(Hawkeye) can reset the brake light? I have completed the testing for a bad master cylinder float cap. Also I completed the testing for the bad hand brake switch. Neither made the light go out, when the master cap was unplugged and the procedure was followed to test for the bad hand brake switch by removing the pin #4 in the connector up under the driver's foot well.
Work performed by me.
1. New front and rear brake pads 3 weeks ago.
2. Stopping power is great! No brake squeal. Land Rover pads used.
Current rotors were in good shape but rears will need replacing soon.
3. I removed some excess brake fluid at the reservoir. Level it set at full.
4. Brake light still on steady all the time.
This weekend I will be swapping a known good ABS modulator with new shuttle valves installed. Also fixing a torn dust boot on the front caliper piston. I hope this will cure make current brake hell! But at this point all I can do is be hopeful. Full 2 quart Dot 4 flush/Fill. Even though its only been 5 months since my opiton B fix on the modulator. Now Amigos back on...probably from leaky seals. Thats is all that is left to fix.
Work performed by me.
1. New front and rear brake pads 3 weeks ago.
2. Stopping power is great! No brake squeal. Land Rover pads used.
Current rotors were in good shape but rears will need replacing soon.
3. I removed some excess brake fluid at the reservoir. Level it set at full.
4. Brake light still on steady all the time.
This weekend I will be swapping a known good ABS modulator with new shuttle valves installed. Also fixing a torn dust boot on the front caliper piston. I hope this will cure make current brake hell! But at this point all I can do is be hopeful. Full 2 quart Dot 4 flush/Fill. Even though its only been 5 months since my opiton B fix on the modulator. Now Amigos back on...probably from leaky seals. Thats is all that is left to fix.
#18
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Which connector is that pin 4 on, I can't find that on the RAVE drawing.
C0293 pin 18 is the switched ground from the SLABS that turns on the brake light, runs to C0230 #10, as do the brake fluid level switch and the ebrake switch. Of course this is not shown until you get to the SLABS page in the circuits diagram..... sorry I did not study this enough in my previous response.
C0293 pin 18 is the switched ground from the SLABS that turns on the brake light, runs to C0230 #10, as do the brake fluid level switch and the ebrake switch. Of course this is not shown until you get to the SLABS page in the circuits diagram..... sorry I did not study this enough in my previous response.
#19