2003 Brake light still on after new pad install
#1
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Hello all,
I notice by brake light flashed a few times and then stayed on steady. Installed new pads front and rear. Pushed the cylinders back cleaned everything up. The DBA rotors were within spec of proper thickness so I did not change them. The pads were really worn down but not touching steel on rotor. I had about 1.5mm left. Anyways after that, my brake light is still on in the instrument cluster. I have played with the float on cap of the brake fluid reservoir. It does not make the light go out. I have also put the E-brake up and down a few times.
The pedal is nice and solid, brakes are strong. Brakes were bled with in the last 6 months when I fixed the Amigos. Any ideals would be appreciated. No brake squeal and the new pads seem to be bedding in nicely after about 60 miles.
How would I go about testing the switch on the float? I have a multimeter!
I notice by brake light flashed a few times and then stayed on steady. Installed new pads front and rear. Pushed the cylinders back cleaned everything up. The DBA rotors were within spec of proper thickness so I did not change them. The pads were really worn down but not touching steel on rotor. I had about 1.5mm left. Anyways after that, my brake light is still on in the instrument cluster. I have played with the float on cap of the brake fluid reservoir. It does not make the light go out. I have also put the E-brake up and down a few times.
The pedal is nice and solid, brakes are strong. Brakes were bled with in the last 6 months when I fixed the Amigos. Any ideals would be appreciated. No brake squeal and the new pads seem to be bedding in nicely after about 60 miles.
How would I go about testing the switch on the float? I have a multimeter!
#3
#4
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See attached page from electrical library, it matches the connector C0026 from the notes on the wiring diagram for instruments. Remove plug from switch. Should read "open", or same reading you get with probes not touching. If it reads anything else it could try to turn on light. It is not a sensor, just a dumb switch.
Actually don't need a meter. If light is on, unplug; if light clears, switch is the source of the connection. If light stays on, it could be the ebrake switch. Both ebrake and low fluid light the same bulb. See pix of brake switch (C0091), hope you don't have to enter the console. Shake the ebrake lever first.
Actually don't need a meter. If light is on, unplug; if light clears, switch is the source of the connection. If light stays on, it could be the ebrake switch. Both ebrake and low fluid light the same bulb. See pix of brake switch (C0091), hope you don't have to enter the console. Shake the ebrake lever first.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 04-12-2012 at 08:17 PM.
#5
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Man! I wish it was that easy. Just went outside and unplugged the master cylinder cap. Fiddled with it. Light on steady. Fiddled with the E-Brake handle...not a flicker steady on.
I am comfortable taking apart the console from doing my CDL. That switch looks buried..yikes. I have looked for that switch on AB but have not located it yet. Any other thoughts would be appciated.
I am comfortable taking apart the console from doing my CDL. That switch looks buried..yikes. I have looked for that switch on AB but have not located it yet. Any other thoughts would be appciated.
#6
#8
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Just an old pre-gps map reader, following those lines on the schematic, with a mind like a steel trap - rusted shut! I like the RAVE for the D2, with color wiring diagrams, and color pix of almost every connector, on the world's cleanest Disco. I wish our site would configure to allow the RAVE in sections for on-line access, more people would look at it, and the site could get more views of ads (something has to pay for all this fun and the annual bonus to Spike and Mike, shown below...)
#10
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I did a full flush about 5 months ago this past fall. I removed about 1\2 cup of brake fluid to accommodate for the new thickness of brake pads. The brake fluid is up to the max fill line. Light is still on. I am testing to see if the hand brake switch is bad today. Which I doubt, but its my next step. The float on the master cylinder seems fine, but does not turn the light off by removing the plug from the cap. If that switch is not bad then I'm stumped.
Last edited by bosshogt; 04-13-2012 at 12:05 PM.