2003 Changing Leaky Front Cover Gasket
#11
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Thanks Charlie, except you can't see the front cover not even a bit anymore...
So I disrupted one of the old AC lines bc it no longer blew cold air. Checked it for freon and system was dead. Gave it a quick charge and immediately spotted the leak on a line from the dryer to the drivers fender.
Also the auxiliary fan never kicked on...??? Gave it a shove w a screw driver and the blades felt VERY tight spinning wise. Checked the fuse and sure enough it was blown. Pulled the fan assembly and again, sure enough it was very tight / near locked up.
At least she started right back up on the first blip of the key.
Ticking is still there though. I put Rotella 15W-40 and a Mobil1 Filter like somewhere on this site suggested. Oil gears are not cracked and flex plate seemed fine when we had the pan down. My father (life long diesel mechanic) says lifters sound sticky bc when I go to above 1500 + rpms ticking gets quieter, which is helped by the higher oil psi. I asked him are you sure the ticking isn't just getting drowned out by the engine noise @ higher rpms (learned that here) & he says No. Inside the valve covers was DISGUSTING.
He's telling me to put a half a quart of ATF in the oil to help clean things out but I wanted to check here first before doing so...???
![Smile](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/H5uKDcM.png)
So I disrupted one of the old AC lines bc it no longer blew cold air. Checked it for freon and system was dead. Gave it a quick charge and immediately spotted the leak on a line from the dryer to the drivers fender.
Also the auxiliary fan never kicked on...??? Gave it a shove w a screw driver and the blades felt VERY tight spinning wise. Checked the fuse and sure enough it was blown. Pulled the fan assembly and again, sure enough it was very tight / near locked up.
At least she started right back up on the first blip of the key.
Ticking is still there though. I put Rotella 15W-40 and a Mobil1 Filter like somewhere on this site suggested. Oil gears are not cracked and flex plate seemed fine when we had the pan down. My father (life long diesel mechanic) says lifters sound sticky bc when I go to above 1500 + rpms ticking gets quieter, which is helped by the higher oil psi. I asked him are you sure the ticking isn't just getting drowned out by the engine noise @ higher rpms (learned that here) & he says No. Inside the valve covers was DISGUSTING.
He's telling me to put a half a quart of ATF in the oil to help clean things out but I wanted to check here first before doing so...???
IMHO if the lifters are moving around too much they need to be replaced next time you do a head gasket.
As for the rockers, here is what I found in my parts truck... top this!
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The grayback gurus here term that a "caked up lump." I tried cleaning it but an engine shop can do much better so... it has been in the engine shop for a month.
![Frown](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/smilies/udbMv2o.png)
Bad timing on the AC lines but at least you found it. If the lines have been open for awhile you may need a new dryer...
Last edited by Charlie_V; 08-17-2015 at 07:52 PM.
#12
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personally i would add 1 oz of kerosene the day before each oil change, the kerosene will dissolve that crap back into oil; which can them be drained out or picked up by the filter.
the issue with a lot of engine cleaners are they are too harsh and they will break that stuff free, not down, free which means it will end up in the pick up, push rods, lifters and oil galleries. JMHO
FYI. its a good chance the noise goes way over 1500 rpm because over 1500 rpms the piston speed is faster than the rate the sleeve is traveling at; and it no longer bottoms out against the head or block, it just floats there. sorry
the issue with a lot of engine cleaners are they are too harsh and they will break that stuff free, not down, free which means it will end up in the pick up, push rods, lifters and oil galleries. JMHO
FYI. its a good chance the noise goes way over 1500 rpm because over 1500 rpms the piston speed is faster than the rate the sleeve is traveling at; and it no longer bottoms out against the head or block, it just floats there. sorry
Last edited by drowssap; 08-18-2015 at 07:28 AM.
#13
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I had the upper intake off to do the valve covers and wanted to go further by pulling the lower intake and heads, but was persuaded not to by pops for fear of exhaust manifold bolts not cooperating...?
I'm still game to do so... If in fact the sleeves are slipping they would leave a mark on the underside of the head, right...??
I'm still game to do so... If in fact the sleeves are slipping they would leave a mark on the underside of the head, right...??
#14
#15
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Well I am going to drive her some before I diagnose any further for the ticking and try the kerosene trick before the next oil change or two, see what that does and take it from there.
Here's a kicker... I forgot to plug back in the IAC after putting everything together and starting her up for the first time since the repairs. It threw a check engine light so I scanned it. Codes for IAC not opening & IAC not closing came up. Right away I knew I prob forgot to hook her back up. Anyways, as soon as I plugged it back in the ticking started instantly. And everytime I pop the hood since, I SWEAR the ticking is coming directly from the IAC...? Is this possible...??
Here's a kicker... I forgot to plug back in the IAC after putting everything together and starting her up for the first time since the repairs. It threw a check engine light so I scanned it. Codes for IAC not opening & IAC not closing came up. Right away I knew I prob forgot to hook her back up. Anyways, as soon as I plugged it back in the ticking started instantly. And everytime I pop the hood since, I SWEAR the ticking is coming directly from the IAC...? Is this possible...??
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