So I poured through the rave manual, and could find an MAP sensor anywhere in it. Does the disco have one? It mentioned an ambient air temp gauge, and the maf. Also could it be the ecm?

 

*could not find*

 

Also, when I pulled the MAF and cleaned it again two or three days ago, I re-installed it. started it up, and it idled nicely, I shut it off before I left to go to town. I tried to start it back up when I shut it off, and it hasn't run again yet. It turns over and fires, and dies before it can build up any rpm. I noticed that the fuel pump wasn't turning on, and running when the ignition is keyed. It turns on after it tries to start, but not in time to keep it running, so who knows what I screwed up on it now, but the MAF doesn't have anything to do with the pump pre-pressurizing the lines does it?

 

The pump was kicking on and pressurizing the lines a few days ago (when you asked me if it was) and now has stopped is what I mean in the above post.

 

I could totally see Land Rover not using a MAP sensor. They love to do stuff like that!
If there isn't one, the MAF would be the only thing to calculate the air coming in.
Just out of curiosity, I hooked up a scan tool to my GMC today. It has a V6, but it is a 4.3 liter, so it's not too far from 4.6
The MAF reading on that was less than half of your reading at idle. I don't see any way .3 liters more displacement would need over double the amount of air to keep the air/fuel ratio at 14.7:1. It just doesn't sound right to me.

 

Funny. I was gonna hook my scanner up to my wife's Mustang GT, with a 4.6 I figured the rover should have the same amount of air pulling in. What next? Should I just replace the maf?

 

Before replacing anything, I would find the smoking gun. This is most likely going to be caused by a single problem. Have you checked the IAC valve? It should have a "buzzing" sound with the key on, engine off. You can also feel it vibrate if you can't hear it. If it's not doing that, it's either stuck or broken. You could try cleaning it out first.

 

It buzzes, and vibrates. I cleaned it when I cleaned the maf the first time. Of it is buzzing, and vibrating that means it's working? Should I clean it again anyways?

 

I don't know if it will help or not, but it certainly won't hurt. When you first start the engine, it should be open and then slowly close as it runs. That's why you get a flare when you first start it up. You can try switching the key off and on with it removed from the hoses and see if it moves. Usually IAC valves will cycle closed and then open again when you turn the key on. Also, you can make sure it moves freely with a small screwdriver or pick. Just be careful not to damage it if it's stuck.
As far as the fuel pump goes, it is strange that it doesn't seem to be working now. Maybe you can try checking power at the fuse and relay again. There is a possibility the ignition switch could be faulty.
I had a van that I got burned on because it had all the symptoms of a bad crank position sensor. I replaced it and it did the same thing! Then I noticed that power was dropping out on it, causing weird readings. Sometimes if you left the key on, or the engine running, the RPM reading on the scan tool would jump up to 7500 randomly.
If you had the key on, engine off, you would hear the fuel pump kick on when the reading jumped. If the engine was running, it would stall.

 

So the iacv works normally. It opens all the way when it tries to start, not that it will start, and closes back up when it is off. It also moves very smoothly, and freely.