2003 Discovery 2 Overheating
For hoses to collapse with engine off; they have to be full of air. Coolant does not compress.
Fill coolant and burp. Replace coolant reservoir cap, seems it is not allowing ambient air in.
Fill coolant and burp. Replace coolant reservoir cap, seems it is not allowing ambient air in.
Thanks for all the tips and advice.
I rented a pressure test tool sets from Advanced Auto yesterday and tested my truck. The system held pressure at 15 psi with no leaking. So I ordered a reservoir cap but it on't come till Tuesday due to the holiday today. I will then test and see if it's the cap caused all these headaches.
Would a partially clogged radiator cause this type of problem? When I flushed the radiator connecting the water hose to the lower outlet, I found the water didn't flow as fast as it was when I hooked the water hose to the top outlet of the radiator. I don't know if that tells anything?
Thanks,
I rented a pressure test tool sets from Advanced Auto yesterday and tested my truck. The system held pressure at 15 psi with no leaking. So I ordered a reservoir cap but it on't come till Tuesday due to the holiday today. I will then test and see if it's the cap caused all these headaches.
Would a partially clogged radiator cause this type of problem? When I flushed the radiator connecting the water hose to the lower outlet, I found the water didn't flow as fast as it was when I hooked the water hose to the top outlet of the radiator. I don't know if that tells anything?
Thanks,
Radiator is most likely not clogged.
are you using green coolant?
Besides the major design flaws the rovers worse enemy is air bubbles especially at the heater core tubes.
the next enemy is owners that think they got all the air out followed by owners thinking their truck is going to blow up because they are at a slightly higher temp AT THE SENDER, but still not warm enough AT THE THERMOSTAT for it to open.
Once you get that cap on, fill it, park it on a hill, squeeze your hoses, AND LET IT CYCLE.
are you using green coolant?
Besides the major design flaws the rovers worse enemy is air bubbles especially at the heater core tubes.
the next enemy is owners that think they got all the air out followed by owners thinking their truck is going to blow up because they are at a slightly higher temp AT THE SENDER, but still not warm enough AT THE THERMOSTAT for it to open.
Once you get that cap on, fill it, park it on a hill, squeeze your hoses, AND LET IT CYCLE.
So, I installed the new cap this morning, bleed the air and topped the coolant, and drove the truck for about 10 miles and everything seemed fine. The heater was back to hot, the coolant temp was about in the middle. On the way back, the coolant temp needle went above the middle and close to the 3/4 line. i didn't stop just drove back, it didn't went up higher kind of stayed there. When I got back home I immediately opened up the hood and found the coolant level was higher but not near the top of the reservoir and no dripping out from the pipe. I could also hear a hissing noise from the reservoir cap area. I wasn't sure if it's from the new cap or those two tiny lines or just the reservoir, but certainly there was a tiny bit air leaking there. So I just parked the truck on my driveway leaving the hood open. i just came out after about 2hrs parking and checked, the engine is cooled down and all the hoses are still holding a little bit pressure not sucked in as before.
It seemed the new cap definitely helped, but I am not sure why it was still a bit overheating. And I am not sure if that hissing sound was normal? Could there be a leaking from the reservoir where those two tiny pipes connecting to?
Thanks,
It seemed the new cap definitely helped, but I am not sure why it was still a bit overheating. And I am not sure if that hissing sound was normal? Could there be a leaking from the reservoir where those two tiny pipes connecting to?
Thanks,
Well, you could still have either a fan or HG Issue. Have you rented the Coolant Pressure Tester? The Cap is more than likely allowing air out to depressurize, and that is from too high a temp. you need to determine the cause of the excessive heat.
That just involves a thorough examination of the cooling system. Pressure Test, Full Flush, and inspection.
That just involves a thorough examination of the cooling system. Pressure Test, Full Flush, and inspection.
I did the pressure test before putting a new cap on. The pressure was holding steady at 15psi, not a bit dropping for more than two hours. The fan works fine. And the thermostat was basically new. I flush the engine, heater core and the radiator twice already, used Prestone Flush+ and Clean. It seemed to clogging as the water flows in and out without any problem on the engine, heater core and the radiator.
What else can you think I need to take a look at?
Thanks,
What else can you think I need to take a look at?
Thanks,
I did the pressure test before putting a new cap on. The pressure was holding steady at 15psi, not a bit dropping for more than two hours. The fan works fine. And the thermostat was basically new. I flush the engine, heater core and the radiator twice already, used Prestone Flush+ and Clean. It seemed to clogging as the water flows in and out without any problem on the engine, heater core and the radiator.
What else can you think I need to take a look at?
Thanks,
What else can you think I need to take a look at?
Thanks,
I have had bad thermostats that are new, but if is opening initially you have another issue.


