Hello. I bought my first Land Rover a couple of months ago. Its a 2003 Discovery II SE7 purchased for my son.

When I bought the Disco2, the battery was slow to turn over the engine but it would would start without problems.

Last week my son called with the following information:

- Started the Disco2 and drove it 5 miles to work
- Approximately half way to work, the low fuel light came on
- After work, he drove it home.
- The next morning he tried to start it. The engine cranked a couple of times then the battery died and it would no longer crank.
- Two days later, I visited my son and installed a new battery.
- I added 5 gallons of super unleaded fuel - gauge now reads 1/4 tank
- We tried to start the Disco but no luck
- The engine cranks but won't run.
- No warning lights illuminate on the dash and the low fuel light is off.

I'm wondering if when I installed the batter (severing all power to the vehicle) could there be some type of reset switch I'm not aware of. Or, maybe there is air in the fuel lines or something...

I've worked on my vehicles for many years, but never a Land Rover. I'm not sure if it is fuel injected or has a carburetor because the Disco2 is in San Antonio and I'm in Austin Tx. If carb, can I spray starting fluid (or fuel) into the carb to help it start?

Any troubleshooting tips are greatly appreciated? Worst case, can you recommend a mobile mechanic in San Antonio, Tx?

 

I am guess in fuel pump or Crank position sensor.

 

"could there be some type of reset switch" yes, on the firewall just to the left of the rear of the engine "inertia switch" it controls the fuel pump

 

So what have you checked so far?????

 

If you ran the system dry chances are you need to keep at it until it burps all the air out and you get fuel at the injectors again. Put a fuel pressure tester with a bleed valve on it and you can see if fuel is there and/or bleed the air out.

Turn the key from off to pos 2 a few times to let the fuel pressure build up. The pump turns on for a few seconds then turns off if it doesn't sense a spinning engine.It should read at "3.5 bar (50.75 psi)" per rave. If no/low pressure looks you're in the ballpark for a new pump (~$400) or you can rebuild yours for ~$70.

You shouldn't have tripped the inertia switch when changing the battery but I suppose anything is possible. Push it in and see if that helps. It is located on the passenger firewall looks like a random button.

 

It is fuel injection. The fuel pump is fully immersed inside the tank, along with fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Running dry can overheat pump, plus suck all the dregs into the filter sock. Fuel up at 1/2 tank, it makes the folding money pain seem less.

You should hear pump run for like 2 seconds when key is turned to position 2. Then it is cutoff as the computer does not see the crankshaft turning at 80 rpm or so. The crash switch (inertia switch) will also kill it.

Fuel test port is under top section of the intake manifold on driver side where it is very hard to get to.

You can spray in some starting fluid (just a squirt, not hosed down) to see if it will have spark and crank over for a few seconds.

You should also verify that you have spark (attach a spare plug and lay on manifold) - if no sparks when cranking suspect the crank position sensor, when it fails there will be no spark, and it does not always set a code.

The factory shop manual is called the RAVE, and is a free download at links below. In it you will find shop, owner, and electrical manuals. There are electric connection under the carpet in the rear that sometimes cause problems with the pump.

 

The crank sensor was the issue. Thanks to all who replied to my posts.