For under 1k buy it and part it out...

 

For $1000, the only thing holding me back would be the cost of adding a locking transfer case.

I bought my '00 four years(?) ago for $2500. Crank no start, with a knocking when cranking. Body and interior were perfect, and it had 80k miles. After having it towed home, and cranking it a few more times, it seized. I bought a used engine with 80k miles and a year warranty, for $2,000 and replaced it myself.

I finally tore the old engine apart for scrap aluminum, and here is what I found after removing the upper end:

 

Could you elaborate on the LNRA and how I go about checking the vin? I have y
The vin and ran the carfax. This rig was fully maintained by land rover until mid 2010 and 130k. Then it changed hands and moved to Az. It was serviced by various Indy shops since then. It did fail emissions and passed after new plugs and a replacement MIL (that would be just a indicator correct?)

I've negotiated an embarrassingly low price. I think I'll drag it home regardless.

 

You could part it out and make money on the deal. I did that with a couple jeeps once; pulled parts and sold on e-bay and craigslist and used that money to finance the rebuild. I don't think you can lose in this situation.

 

Looks like the vin falls outside of the oil pump failure list


Also got a few wrecked units around town ready for pillaging. Used parts prices are quite reasonable, hope they are no all junk! I guess within a week I will either have it running or be crying about my bad luck and questionable judgment.

In the back of my mind I know I should just spend the money now on a nice runner, but for some reason i can't resist the challenge. This rig looks so clean, it is a damn shame it ended up where it is now. Must Attempt rescue.

I might not do it if such great online resources as this forum did not exist.

Thanks

 

Do what Savannah said.
Try a socket and breaker bar on the crank.
If it moves ok
then the problem is a bad ground to the starter.
This is fairly common.
Check also the ground from the driver's cylinder head to the firewall is there.

And, when you turn the key - does the emergency brake cable get hot?
This is all a bad ground.

 

We settled on a price pending it pass a few checks:

motor not frozen

oil pan not full of crud/coolant

Trans fluid condition acceptable

I'm going to look at it in daylight today and make my best determination whether or not it has catastrophic issues.

It is missing the keyfob, that will not be cheap, and I assume it is very inconvenient not having it. Is it a necessity for it to run? It doesn't appear to be, as the truck boots up and tries to crank when the key is turned.

The current owner does have all original documents and security codes.

I fully expect to have to drop a fair amount of time and cash into it right away.

Last night I downloaded all of the PDF docs I could find links to (thanks again this site!), and while I did not read it all cover to cover, I did not see any schematics right off. Are they in the RAVE? Or maybe they are in the Bosch controls manuals?

If all goes well It will be in my possession tonight..

Thanks again to all. I will keep posted what happens, and maybe have a lot of nice parts to offer up to you guys if it doesn't pan out! Or, like someone mentioned, a donor parts vehicle..This thing has a pristine interior and body, TV's in the headrests, killer sound system, etc..

 

yes the schematics are in the RAVE. Keyfob is around $150 from dealer.

 

Well, it was a pig in a poke! Got it home and did some trouble shooting. Motor has been overheated very Badly.


I'm going to inspect and train myself on this rig using the RAVE for the next couple weeks and decide whether or not to drop in a motor or not. It is remarkably clean, and as long as the drivetrain is sound will make a great rig.

Thanks again for the support and encouragement. Also, let me know what parts you all might want or need. If I decide to part it I'll give this forum first dibs. It is an HSE by the way.

Regards

Mike

 

If you are willing, a better bet than a used motor is setting up the one you have right. Pull the heads, get them machined along with a valve job, clean things up, use a superior head gasket...you'll have a better motor in there than you could get used.