When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
@Sixpack577 That was my plan for curiosity too - I know head gaskets go and as I am very careful about checking coolant levels it may be I just caught as it is beginning to fail.
I decided not to go with liners based on what my machine shop told me. A lot a labor to remove the old ones and add new ones. And the shop thought they were unnecessary when doing a full rebuild. Time will tell for sure. Here's my full build list & cost. Got a lot of parts from Turner.
Does not look bad to do. I have one question. How do you remove the side pillars like the a pillars without breaking them. Thanks the pictures are awesome. Im going to give it a try. Joe
I am rebuilding my 4.6
Remanufactured heads from a great vendor/member here were $400
Crower cam $250
Finished cam bearings $150
Crank, rod bearings, $75
Oil pump, $40
Lifters and pushrods $120
New timing cover $390
ARP head studs $75
Elring head gaskets $50
All other gaskets and sealants, under $100
Gates waterpump $75
Rings $100
Coil packs, plugs and wires, around $100
Doorman and Gates fan and fan clutch $60
Idler pulleys and tensioner $70
Remanufactured Bosch injectors $80
good used 4.0 block $400
+ oil, coolant, thermostat, freeze plugs, etc, another $100
I'm around $3k in parts and zero for labor as I do the work.
Sixpack, fill out your profile! Where do you live?! We need to do an intervention and come finish that motor for you.
You've been working on it since my 2017 bottom-end-rebuild thread!
*that was what I feared when I did my rebuild... that I'd get started but then stop knocking out the work. It took a lot to force myself just to do the dang motor work!
Going through the same exact thing with my truck (white se7 like yours) but decided to not rebuild the 4.6. Going to go with the LS swap that Ace Engineering is developing.
I think the extra effort will be worth while. More power, better gas efficiency and more aftermarket support. You might want to consider going that route instead.
You anywhere near NW Texas? Once I get these heads off I'll know if this is a good candidate for a rebuild and I'll be looking to get rid of it.
Do you have information on this LS swap? Is there issues with fitment, computer
and smog inspection passing?
Sixpack, fill out your profile! Where do you live?! We need to do an intervention and come finish that motor for you.
You've been working on it since my 2017 bottom-end-rebuild thread!
*that was what I feared when I did my rebuild... that I'd get started but then stop knocking out the work. It took a lot to force myself just to do the dang motor work!
Lol, I DID finish it...and Then the block cracked and leaked coolant into 3 cylinders.
This is round 2(using the 4.0 block with my 4.6 crank and rods).
I've only been working on this one for a few months, on and off as I find the time.
You're right though, it's been a Long time, as I started out with an oil pump, lifters, and other bits and pieces before the last rebuild, and that's been over 2 1/2 years now.
I plan to have the truck running in 3-4 months, time and weather permitting.
I'm building the engine in my garage, but will put it in the truck outside.
I'm in south central Virginia, so I'll be waiting for warmer weather for that part.
Last edited by Sixpack577; 01-16-2020 at 06:19 AM.
@RoverSE7 the cost @Sixpack577 figured out is about, what I figured with a used pressure tested block if I had a crack. Since then I found I can order darton top hatted liners and the local machine shop will install if I wanted to go that way. So 600 cdn for liners and about 1500 for install. That is still a lot cheaper than a turner short block.
There's also a place in So Cal that will test and install top hat liners and new cam bearings into your block for about $1,500. I was going to use them but ended up buying a block that already had the top hat liners and cam bearings done (for the build in signature) from another forum member - I'm almost certain the same shop did the work.
So I had a frozen caliper last weekend. I got it working again but figured it would be best to replace the two front calipers to be on the safe side. I received the new calipers from RockAuto today and I had a rental nanocom and some stainless steel brake lines so I thought today would be a good day to get these all swapped out and bleed the brakes. Front two and rear driver side went in without a hitch but I ended up stripping out the passenger rear brak fitting. So headed to AutoZone tomorrow to get this https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...60_90074_92959 and rent their tube flaring kit. Hopefully I will be able to finish this up tomorrow. Chime in if you have a better approach. New caliper and brake line installed Stripped fastener.
Got the brake fitting replaced and flared the end of the tubing. Kind of ugly job but not leaks that I can see. Test drive yielded a squishy pedal even after bleeding with the pedal and the Nanocom. I’ll need to bleed them again (tomorrow) but for now I am done.
Flaring the tubing Finished product. It’s ugly but no leaks.
01-15-2020, 12:59 PM
