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Finally got around to adding the extended sway bar links to the rear. Hardest part was getting the angle right to remove. Found I needed to wire brush the threads and use lots of PB Blaster before they would come off. Installation was pretty simple. Entire job took me 1.5 hours.
I got irritated and cut the bolts off on my rears when I went to remove them...I need to go back under there and pop the remaining studs out just for potential use down the road. They are a total nightmare if never removed before.
Good job polishing, I've tried all the different "top coats" they sell from meguiars, sylvania, 3M, etc, and none of them truly last. 6 months-1 year and they yellow. You may get a little longer life out of it on the mainland(I'm in Hawaii, and our UV is a world apart from the continental US)
The only thing that is truly truly truly permanent and as good/better than the original coating is to use a true 2k clear coat. 2k is a clear with a catalyst agent that gets added to provide a very hard, durable finish. Same thing as automotive body paint(NOT cheapy rattle can clear coat)
Spraymax makes a few different clear coats that had a built in activator and I can attest they work phenomenally. I would recommend sanding it down and removing all the old clear and product, then using a true clear on it so you never have to do it again
Good job polishing, I've tried all the different "top coats" they sell from meguiars, sylvania, 3M, etc, and none of them truly last. 6 months-1 year and they yellow. You may get a little longer life out of it on the mainland(I'm in Hawaii, and our UV is a world apart from the continental US)
The only thing that is truly truly truly permanent and as good/better than the original coating is to use a true 2k clear coat. 2k is a clear with a catalyst agent that gets added to provide a very hard, durable finish. Same thing as automotive body paint(NOT cheapy rattle can clear coat)
Spraymax makes a few different clear coats that had a built in activator and I can attest they work phenomenally. I would recommend sanding it down and removing all the old clear and product, then using a true clear on it so you never have to do it again
Heading to the Hard Rock Cycle Park in Ocala, FL this morning. Going to represent, make fun of all the Jeep mall crawlers and stretch the limits of the disco. Will do a full trip report when I get back.
For the life of me I just cannot grasp why people insist on spending 6-8 k on rebuilding motors or getting a Turner. I don't care if you have a fur-lined glove box on that truck, it's value on resale just does not justify it. Find a good used motor and slap it in. Bingo you are done for 500 bucks plus a days work.
What am I missing here?
I already did it and I lost the money from the engine I had no luck with which I got lost more money than if it had rebuilt mine for 72k miles, now I have to take mine apart and work on the crankshaft rectification new gaskets, oil pump rings bearings etc .. well I know and I am confident of what I have
I have a little over $3k in parts rebuilding my 4.6(still havn't finished assembling it yet), and that includes a used 4.0 block, Crower cam, and reman heads.
Did I want to spend that much? No.
Would I gamble just dropping in a used engine?
**** No!
I rebuilt my 4.6 only for the block to crack and leak coolant into 3 cylinders while trying to start it.
I had tested and inspected Everything prior too.
So after the time and money spent, I am rebuilding in a known good block(which I thought mine was, lol).
Unless I had a wrecked, good running P38 to swap in, no way I'de take the risk of a junkyard engine in one of these(which is where most of them belong and are quickly headed to).
I have a little over $3k in parts rebuilding my 4.6(still havn't finished assembling it yet), and that includes a used 4.0 block, Crower cam, and reman heads.
Did I want to spend that much? No.
Would I gamble just dropping in a used engine?
**** No!
I rebuilt my 4.6 only for the block to crack and leak coolant into 3 cylinders while trying to start it.
I had tested and inspected Everything prior too.
So after the time and money spent, I am rebuilding in a known good block(which I thought mine was, lol).
Unless I had a wrecked, good running P38 to swap in, no way I'de take the risk of a junkyard engine in one of these(which is where most of them belong and are quickly headed to).
Do you know someone who has put me one of Chevrolet SL? I don't know if it would be better and more reliable
6/10 Update
