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Do you know someone who has put me one of Chevrolet SL? I don't know if it would be better and more reliable
You can swap in most any smallblock drivetrain, with fabrication of motor/trans mounts, and custom length driveshafts. That is using an engine and trans that are already meant to go together too.
The problem is that none of the LR electronics will talk to anything else.
AceEngineer figured out how to get GM LS electronics to work with the LR, and retain the abs/traction control, and all other factory functions.
Trailhead in Ohio is the only other known place that's been able to accomplish this. It's a $10k job.
They both also have fabbed bell housing adapters to use an LS engine with the D2 trans.
What they have done is no small feat either.
The guys here that have done Ace's swap seem to have easily spent over half of what Trailhead wants for a turn key job too, and I would consider both alot of money, but neither not at all unreasonable.
It's a big job.
But, for anyone who would want a top hatted LR engine installed, that's gonna cost what Trailhead would charge for an LS.
Unfortunately, there really is no cheap or simple solution.
You can swap in most any smallblock drivetrain, with fabrication of motor/trans mounts, and custom length driveshafts. That is using an engine and trans that are already meant to go together too.
The problem is that none of the LR electronics will talk to anything else.
AceEngineer figured out how to get GM LS electronics to work with the LR, and retain the abs/traction control, and all other factory functions.
Trailhead in Ohio is the only other known place that's been able to accomplish this. It's a $10k job.
They both also have fabbed bell housing adapters to use an LS engine with the D2 trans.
What they have done is no small feat either.
The guys here that have done Ace's swap seem to have easily spent over half of what Trailhead wants for a turn key job too, and I would consider both alot of money, but neither not at all unreasonable.
It's a big job.
But, for anyone who would want a top hatted LR engine installed, that's gonna cost what Trailhead would charge for an LS.
Unfortunately, there really is no cheap or simple solution.
heck nothing really easy ... it's a lot of money for so little better is to do the best job possible in our LR. in my case I am sure that the oil pump broke and as a consequence the bearing was damaged causing damage to the crankshaft with only 72k miles I think I can recover the 4.6 .. without spending so much money
You can swap in most any smallblock drivetrain, with fabrication of motor/trans mounts, and custom length driveshafts. That is using an engine and trans that are already meant to go together too.
The problem is that none of the LR electronics will talk to anything else.
AceEngineer figured out how to get GM LS electronics to work with the LR, and retain the abs/traction control, and all other factory functions.
Trailhead in Ohio is the only other known place that's been able to accomplish this. It's a $10k job.
They both also have fabbed bell housing adapters to use an LS engine with the D2 trans.
What they have done is no small feat either.
The guys here that have done Ace's swap seem to have easily spent over half of what Trailhead wants for a turn key job too, and I would consider both alot of money, but neither not at all unreasonable.
It's a big job.
But, for anyone who would want a top hatted LR engine installed, that's gonna cost what Trailhead would charge for an LS.
Unfortunately, there really is no cheap or simple solution.
heck nothing really easy ... it's a lot of money for so little better is to do the best job possible in our LR. in my case I am sure that the oil pump broke and as a consequence the bearing was damaged causing damage to the crankshaft with only 72k miles I think I can recover the 4.6 .. without spending so much money
heck nothing really easy ... it's a lot of money for so little better is to do the best job possible in our LR. in my case I am sure that the oil pump broke and as a consequence the bearing was damaged causing damage to the crankshaft with only 72k miles I think I can recover the 4.6 .. without spending so much money
P0441 is back since. Looks like I’ll have rig up another smoke test to find out what’s causing it because I pretty much swapped out everything except the hoses.
Good news is I go salt got my C pillar trim installed. I had been avoiding this task for a couple of weeks because I knew it would be harder than the A pillar trim which just clicks on place. This trim connects from the inside for you have to remove some inside trim to get at it. Once I popped the interior trim off, I just needed some vice grips and a 9/32 socket to remove the old trim bolts. After that, everything tightened up nicely. Inside trim - partial removal Access to the nuts for the c pillar trim Had to use vice grips to remove the old bolts. Finished product!
If the bare block hasn't been pressure tested, then pressure test it. If it passes, then:
Chem dip it to clean internal oil and coolant passages
Deck the block (especially verify internal flatness)
Install new cam bearings
Install new cam (this is your one shot for internal power gains)
Pin OEM cylinder liners (free) or install new top hat liners ($)
Hone each cylinder
Machine original crankshaft .020 and reinstall with new .020 main bearings
Blueprint the non-oil piston rings on each cylinder to factory gap tolerances + use new ridged oil rings
Install pistons/rods
Install new .020 rod bearings (best practice to use new bolts on the caps here)
Verify that crank turns (should require long screwdriver/pry tool) with effort, neither locked up nor spinning freely
Oil soak overnight and depress each new lifter several times (only use new lifters with new cam, otherwise use original lifters w/original cam)
Verify pushrods are all straight
Verify rocker spring mechanism is straight
Pressure test and chem dip heads
Deck heads
Verify straight valve stems
Lap valves/seats and use carb cleaner spray through intake and exhaust ports of heads to verify that no valves leak any carb cleaner)
Replace valve stem seals
Port head exhaust openings and port exhaust header connections to heads to match the maximum size of your exhaust gaskets (free gas mileage+power here)
Use ARP studs/nuts and all-metal Cometic headgaskets to reassemble heads onto block
Uninstall, clean, and reinstall oil pickup tube, also use new o-ring on it
Clean oil sump pan
Install new timing chain and oil pump gear (plus new front cover if the old front cover is scored/gouged/damaged)
Reinstall oil sump pan with new gasket
I am in that dilemma. I'm looking for quality and good price. which are the best to mark in spare parts. bearmach, rockauto, atlanticbritish is very expensive and i don't think they are OEM
Thanks for the detailed pics of the C pillar @cvhyatt !
Mine on the drivers side is loose/broken at one of the mounts. I've been putting this off since I read it takes some depaneling to get to it. Your writeup made it look easier than I thought. Cheers!
So what did these rock sliders cost? I don't do Facebook - so i don't have a way of getting in touch with Dark Crow Designs. you have a contact name / # for their shop?
** Never Mind - i see the price on your spreadsheet. I still could use the contact info for the shop.
Last edited by marshman442; 08-16-2020 at 08:17 PM.
07-02-2020 | 06:12 PM
