Me either. I am not sure how my engine was so quiet, I actually had a couple lifters that look stuck down also.. no ticking.

 

Heads installed with ARP head studs, springs and valve job.


Getting ready to put it back in! Tried to put it back in as complete as possible while still being able to get to those bell housing bolts.
Took a good 5 hours to put 16 bolts back in😜. 55 psi cold idle
60 psi 1500 rpm cold
24 psi hot idle with break in oil
50 psi at 1500 rpm hot

No lights on and passed the dreaded AZ emissions. Runs better then when I got it 8 years ago. 60 miles in on the break in and Pretty excited to have it back on the road again!
Also installed an ARB bumper and Warn winch.

 

Looks fantastic!

 

Looks great, and glad to hear it runs as good as it looks.

Brian.

 

Nice work!

It shouldn't be possible to hit an oil psi higher than 50, due to the relief valve. Are you sure you're instrument is good? What port are you using? My gauge shows 50 under load or cold, sometimes it says ~53. I bring it up because my hot idle is only 13-15 and I don't want to lose Or maybe my gauge is wrong because the other day it read 0 psi at hot idle for awhile, but no dash light.... hmmmm

 

Cold idle at 50 psi. I was off about 5 psi from my original post...
53psi at 2000 rpm.
30 psi at idle at 200 degrees. I have seen it lower at between 15-20 psi when sitting at the stop light but I am running 30w non-detergent oil to break it in. Soon I will be changing to full synthetic thicker oil.

 

Looks good. I miss (in a way...) rebuilding the engine. It's amazing how pretty much the whole process doesn't require any heavy hammering whatsoever. only measurements and bolts. I just started a transfer case rebuild and that's a different story.

Double din mod?

Is your psi gauge using an oil filter sandwich or a port on the front cover?

Here's mine. oil psi (green), oil temp (green), coolant (blue), volts (red)

 

Mine is just a flip screen. I wanted to do the double din but was afraid how it would turn out. Yours looks good.

 

It is hard to get a good picture at night but these are my a-pillar gauges. The oil pressure sender is in the front cover where the oil cooler line would go. I know some people say it isn't as reliable but it has given me good reliable feedback and tells me more than the idiot light on the dash. I would say it saved my motor since it gave me the feedback to shut it down when my cam bearings slipped where the idiot light barely came on.

 

I dont know where you guys buy your engines from but if it was a bad thing to do no one would do it...

Engines where I go are about $200 depending on what you leave attached.

Its ALSO a misconception to think cars in yards are garbage. Any engine can fail at any time, even new. Rebuilt percentage is higher I believe.

Many yards buy cars that DRIVE IN, charity donation.
Many yards buy from copart which are repos, insurance claims, accidents or people wanting to sell their car through copart. By no means are they junk.

You're $$$ ahead going to the yard, STARTING IT, and verifying any problems it has. I have started engines, done compression tests, the whole nine yards in the yard before I bought it. Start it, run it, pull the heads...see what's up.

If you're building it yourself, hats off, that's a good thing too.