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2004 Discovery 2 -won’t start

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Old 10-06-2019, 06:36 PM
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Default 2004 Discovery 2 -won’t start

Hey everyone, long time lurker here, and need some advice. A couple of weeks ago, I started to experience an intermittent starting problem, then one day, it just quit even trying. Per the advice I found on the forums, I changed the CPS, with no luck. While trying to start it with the new sensor, I started getting the Manual and Sport mode indicator lights blinking. I could not hear fuel pump priming, so I ordered a new fuel pump. While I was waiting on the fuel pump, I tried to start it again, with no luck, but accidentally left the key on, so now battery is dead. Fast forward a week, and I get my fuel pump, install it, and hook the car up to bumper cables. Still no dice. Tried a number of times, hoping to pressurize the system, but nothing, and the M and S lights are still blinking. Pull the cables off of the battery, and immediately lose ALL power. So, what do I do now? Did I just Change the fuel pump for no good reason? Bad battery? Bad alternator? If it’s the alternator, it should still start while hooked up to cables right? Please help! 😫
 
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Old 10-07-2019, 04:19 AM
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To me it sounds like a bad/low voltage battery was your main culprit. Can you fully charge the battery back up to 12.6 volts?
Also, do you have any fault codes? Post them here if you do.
 
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Old 10-07-2019, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JUKE179r
To me it sounds like a bad/low voltage battery was your main culprit. Can you fully charge the battery back up to 12.6 volts?
Also, do you have any fault codes? Post them here if you do.
I’m not throwing any codes, and I was able to leave a charger on it all night, and fully charge the battery. Same deal.
 
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Old 10-07-2019, 02:11 PM
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A dead battery show voltage but does it have amperage?
 
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Old 10-07-2019, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JUKE179r
A dead battery show voltage but does it have amperage?
I hooked it up to a friend’s Range Rover with a bigger battery, and it still wouldn’t start. If the battery was my problem, I still should have been able to start, hooked up to the other vehicle, right?
 
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Old 10-07-2019, 02:40 PM
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Right. Welcome to the forum.
 
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Old 10-07-2019, 04:14 PM
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UPDATE:
I hit-wired the fuel pump to a known-good battery, and the fuel pump kicked on. When I tested the 4-pin connector with a multimeter, I’m reading 5v coming through the connection. Is this correct? Would my battery be the reason it’s not working? I’m going to get the battery tested now, will update when I get the results. I’ve switched relays around, and still nothing. Also, when the fuel pump was hot-wired, I tried to start the vehicle, and still no luck.
 
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Old 10-08-2019, 02:24 PM
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UPDATE: Battery tested good. Now what?
 
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Old 10-08-2019, 07:07 PM
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Sounds like you have a connection problem from battery to electrical system, do the following, in order:
  1. Push inertia switch on passenger side firewall, attempt to start. Start? No - continue
  2. Test for solid connection, does horn honk, lights are bright, windows/sunroofs open normally?
    1. Yes? - Does engine spin over?
      1. Yes? - Get free rental fuel pressure tester from Oreilly Auto and test fuel pressure when key is first turned to run position (not start). -Pressure OK?
        1. Yes - Remove intake hose from filter to intake, squirt starting fluid in the intake with throttle blade open. Attempt starting. Does engine blip/hit?
          1. Yes - you likely have an issue that is impeding fuel injector pulsing, most common is CPS. You can remove injectors and fuel rail and test while cranking engine to make sure they are pulsing. The ECU uses the CPS to time the injector pulses.
          2. No - you have an ignition issue. Likely a relay/wiring issue. Ignition should fire any time the engine is spinning over.
        2. No - fuel pump is either bad or not running
          1. Find the relay in the fuse box and jumper the leads, look on the bottom of the relay after you remove it and look at diagram, jumper 87 to 30 in the socket with a large paper clip - fuel pressure?
            1. Yes - bad relay
            2. No - wiring issue or bad fuel pump. Check for voltage at the pump, you should have 12v.
      2. No - Does the starter relay click audibly?
        1. Yes - bad starter. You can remove starter and remove end cap to determine if brushes are worn out.
        2. No - Jumper battery lead on starter to starter relay lead on starter with screwdrive, be careful not to touch anything else. Does starter relay pull in and starter spin?
          1. Yes - Jumper starter relay in fuse box - does starter spin?
            1. Yes - you have a circuit issue getting voltage to fusebox relay trigger lead. Likely a security issue.
            2. No? - Likely 12v feed issue or connection issue at the starter of the relay lead.
    2. No? You have a battery connection issue, Check battery terminals.
 
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Old 10-18-2019, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Extinct
Sounds like you have a connection problem from battery to electrical system, do the following, in order:
  1. Push inertia switch on passenger side firewall, attempt to start. Start? No - continue
  2. Test for solid connection, does horn honk, lights are bright, windows/sunroofs open normally?
    1. Yes? - Does engine spin over?
      1. Yes? - Get free rental fuel pressure tester from Oreilly Auto and test fuel pressure when key is first turned to run position (not start). -Pressure OK?
        1. Yes - Remove intake hose from filter to intake, squirt starting fluid in the intake with throttle blade open. Attempt starting. Does engine blip/hit?
          1. Yes - you likely have an issue that is impeding fuel injector pulsing, most common is CPS. You can remove injectors and fuel rail and test while cranking engine to make sure they are pulsing. The ECU uses the CPS to time the injector pulses.
          2. No - you have an ignition issue. Likely a relay/wiring issue. Ignition should fire any time the engine is spinning over.
        2. No - fuel pump is either bad or not running
          1. Find the relay in the fuse box and jumper the leads, look on the bottom of the relay after you remove it and look at diagram, jumper 87 to 30 in the socket with a large paper clip - fuel pressure?
            1. Yes - bad relay
            2. No - wiring issue or bad fuel pump. Check for voltage at the pump, you should have 12v.
      2. No - Does the starter relay click audibly?
        1. Yes - bad starter. You can remove starter and remove end cap to determine if brushes are worn out.
        2. No - Jumper battery lead on starter to starter relay lead on starter with screwdrive, be careful not to touch anything else. Does starter relay pull in and starter spin?
          1. Yes - Jumper starter relay in fuse box - does starter spin?
            1. Yes - you have a circuit issue getting voltage to fusebox relay trigger lead. Likely a security issue.
            2. No? - Likely 12v feed issue or connection issue at the starter of the relay lead.
    2. No? You have a battery connection issue, Check battery terminals.
I have determined that I am not getting voltage to the fuel pump. Fuse 10 is good, the relay is good, and the link between the two is good. What could it be? Bad wire? What do I do about that?
 
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