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Old Jun 12, 2018 | 04:11 PM
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Default 3 Amigos.

If you are suffering intermittent Amigos it is a good chance your front sensor cables have fractured due to age or mileage or steering movement, whatever, I reckon around 150K is the top limit before the 3 Amigos problems start.

Another issue seems to be the actual shuttle valves leaking brake fluid into the shuttle valve switches. There is no easy fix for this, it's a modulator removal job and replace the shuttle valve seals and clips (it's best to do one side at a time so not to mix the parts up). Unfortunately then you need to do a FULL power brake bleed for which you'll need a diag tool or access to one or a main dealership Test Book.

Doing Option B is only the first part of the process but sooner or later the seals will start to leak or the front sensor cables will fracture and the hunt is on once again.

For the seals Google Falconworks in the US.

https://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales...87n12bqobnefl6
 
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Old Jun 28, 2018 | 02:30 PM
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Are you referring to cables running from sensors on front hubs? And where to they go? Easy to trace? i did option B couple months back. No fluid in shuttle valve. But amigos are back randomly. Checked all connections everything’s tight. I do have front end wobble at the moment doing ball joints this weekend. Having code 1590 rough rd circuit malfunction. Every time I clear they come back. Thanks for the info.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2018 | 02:54 PM
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Are you referring to cables running from sensors on front hubs? And where to they go? Easy to trace?
Yep, ABS Sensors (wheel speed). Here have a look >
 
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Old Jun 28, 2018 | 04:07 PM
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Dang it alright, this is the last thing I need right now! Lol. I’ll check my front sensors and trace them back this weekend. Don’t have an abs reader so gonna have to pay a dude on the side again to get me codes. Thanks for the vid
 
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Old Jun 29, 2018 | 03:55 PM
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Yep, it's the wheel speed sensors I'm referring to, the cables fracture due to time or damage (especially front wheel wobbles) and very often give an intermittent 3 Amigos. So then you clear the DTC codes and everything seems fine for a short white, then the dreaded dong, dong, dong and they're back. If the wheel bearing is good then just replace the offending sensor, it's a 1 hour job max.
 

Last edited by OffroadFrance; Jun 29, 2018 at 04:00 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2018 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
Yep, it's the wheel speed sensors I'm referring to, the cables fracture due to time or damage (especially front wheel wobbles) and very often give an intermittent 3 Amigos. So then you clear the DTC codes and everything seems fine for a short white, then the dreaded dong, dong, dong and they're back. If the wheel bearing is good then just replace the offending sensor, it's a 1 hour job max.
Can I replace just the fractured cable harness and keep the sensor or it’s a package deal? I heard these sensors are cha-Ching $$$ I do have a parts rover maybe I could snag it off there. And how do I see if my bearing is bad? Thanks a lot!
 

Last edited by TaylorCadence; Jun 29, 2018 at 04:18 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2018 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TaylorCadence


Can I replace just the fractured cable harness and keep the sensor or it’s a package deal? I heard these sensors are cha-Ching $$$ I do have a parts rover maybe I could snag it off there. And how do I see if my bearing is bad? Thanks a lot!
The cable comes integral with the sensor. You could try a sensor from the parts D2 but there are no guarantees of good results. Ensure you use the same sensor as the equivalent on the D2 as the cable lengths are different.

I have always used the plug together sensors although in the US they prefer taking the cable right back to the SLABS unit. When joining them I always use electrical cleaner spray.

To check the wheel bearing, jack up the front wheels onto axle stands only by a few millimetres off the floor and spin the wheels whilst listening for 'strange' bearing noises. Then try to move the wheel gripping at the top and bottom approx, if there's no movement the bearings should be good. (the best tool for listening is an engineers stethoscope)
 

Last edited by OffroadFrance; Jun 29, 2018 at 05:10 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2018 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
The cable comes integral with the sensor. You could try a sensor from the parts D2 but there are no guarantees of good results. Ensure you use the same sensor as the equivalent on the D2 as the cable lengths are different.
good point. That sensor also has nearly 200k on it. If it’s not acting up already, it will soon.

Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
I have always used the plug together sensors although in the US they prefer taking the cable right back to the SLABS unit. When joining them I always use electrical cleaner spray.
In the video above he states to splice at the slabs. Not sure what these cables and sensors look like yet but at that splice would be the plug together harness I’m assuming? Then it runs all the way back to the sensor. I’m almost certain it’s my front driver sensor that’s malfunctioning. Used CRC cleaner on my O2s = golden. Good stuff.

Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
To check the wheel bearing, jack up the front wheels onto axle stands only by a few millimetres off the floor and spin the wheels whilst listening for 'strange' bearing noises. Then try to move the wheel gripping at the top and bottom approx, if there's no movement the bearings should be good. (the best tool for listening is an engineers stethoscope)
okay I checked this when I was testing for my ball joints and bearings were tight then. I’ll check again though. Going to try and dig into this today and over the weekend. Thanks France.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2018 | 06:19 PM
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I never got the amigos on mine, but I did get a persistent wheel speed sensor fault and the enigmatic "rough road signal implausible" OBD2 error. Replacing the hub with its sensor in place god rid of the problem permanently. So remember that wheel sensors and wiring issues can cause more than just the 3 amigos to show up.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2018 | 03:21 PM
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Just performed Option B on my 500.00 03 D2. Funny thing was when I went to remove the old Shuttle Valve switch assembly I found the yellow/green wire had been tapped into previously..... I also found the 3 allen head bolts that hold the Shuttle Valve Switch loose and I even found one completely out just laying there... I also found evidence of someone having a ground wire twisted around the bolt that secures the HVAC line to the fender/wing.


Dunno if someone freaked out a the simple Option B install or a Dealership removed it and installed another WABCO unit????? The date code was 2003 so I seriously doubt it was replaced.



Installed my modified Shuttle Valve Switch (used but tested good from my 04 that I replaced with a new one a while back along with Option B). Finished up Option B, reset the Shuttle Valve/Ground faults and bingo I now have a 500.00 03 D2 without a single OBDII fault code!
 
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