So the only lights left on the dash to resolve is the Brake light, Hill Decent, ABS, and TC. I pulled the two driver side wheels off and pulled the calipers, and the rotor and carrier bracket. looked at the rear abs sensor and found it dry with a little dirt on it, I cleaned it with a rag and cleaned the o ring and threw it back in and re assembled everything. When I got to the front, I noticed the sensor and the gear inside were coated in a grease, so was the rear suppose to look like the front with grease on the gear and sensor?

I was reading that the 3 amigos will turn on right away after turning the truck on usually means one or more sensors are no good and not dirty? as a dirty sensor should show a error light after 10mph right?


Thanks,

Brian

 

You won't know what's causing your three amigos unless you read the ABS codes. There's something like a dozen different scenarios that can cause them. Messing with the sensors might just be introducing more problems.

 

For me it wasn't a hardware issue. I had the amigos + brake light this past summer immediately after I cleaned the engine bay. I had gotten water into one of the harness connections over near the SAI pump. Dried it out and applied some dielectric grease but still had the lights. Finally bought a scanner and cleared the codes and it's been fine since.

And yes, there was grease in both hubs that I have replaced.

 

Red light with three amigos is a dead sensor - no signal at all to the ecu.

 

Since you've been on this forum for a while presume you've read about the shuttle valve switches electrical fault that can be remedied by the famous Option B. The SVS fault typically isn't caused by the switches themselves, but buy a failed solder joint buried deep in the modulator body. The Option B bypass bypasses that failed solder joint and restores full ABS function if the failed solder joint triggered the fault.

If it's impractical for you to get the ABS codes read you may want to just go ahead and do Option B. It's less work than what you've already done checking the sensors, costs next to nothing to do, and there's a high probability it will vanquish the Three Amigos.

One other thing I'm getting around to talking about in a new thread is that simply unplugging, cleaning and reconnecting the wheel speed sensor (WSS) connectors may cure the Three Amigos, including the connector at the SLABS where all four WSSs plug in to the SLABS.

I chased a WSS fault for close to two years. I cut out the connector from the WSS to the wiring harness (front left, under the master cylinder) and spliced the wires, but the Boys from South of the Border came back.

The fault hasn't come back since I unplugged the SLABS connector, (pictured below) sprayed its cavities with electrical contact cleaner, and plugged it back in. I got there because I was looking at installing one of the sensors sold with a long cable to reach all the way to the SLABS, eliminating the intermediate connector. I unplugged the SLABS connector trying to see how to remove the wires from the connector. I never did figure out how to do that, but I decided to spray the cavities before plugging it back in, and so far so good. That was only about 300 miles ago, but that's better than after recent prior attempts (fingers crossed). The unplug, clean, reconnect solution is also reported on the forum working for airbag system faults.

 

If I were you, I would do the option B. Double check all your electric, clear your codes and see what happens. I have chased this for years, multiple vehicles. Its almost magic. I would get a code reader clear-er and clear after every step.
I still dont understand how I fixed my last four amigos.

 

Extinct knows his stuff, but the SVS fault also triggers the Three Amigos plus the brake (red) light, according to the RAVE.

 

all good ideas I will have to check the connections at the SLABS and probably just get it code read.

 

Is there a "sticky" or a source for the Option B procedure? I somehow have a 2 page PDF titled "Tre-amigos" but it is incomplete. I know the original thread from Josh Salas is long gone, as well as his link: landroverclubvi.com, from a 2009 thread, but does anyone have a source for Option B?

I did it in 2010 and only now have the return. Planning to do the shuttle valve switch AND the shuttle valve seals with the kit from falconworks.net (https://falconworks.net/) and wanted to send them info on "Option B" but could not find a complete source.body

Anybody have the complete info in any format?

 

This time, I replaced the entire ABS pump and bled the system, I did not do an option B. The last vehicle I did end up replacing a hub and sensor.

If the 2010 vehicle is the current one, I would guess it is the leaky seals that are causing the fault now.