No, other then the information was direct from the District Zone manager in mid 99.
BMW was trying to cut costa and used a lessor quality aluminum on both the heads and block as well as using a lessor quality adhisive for the sleeves.
That was just 1 of many changes we can thank BMW for.

 

I heard it right here from EarlyRover in the following thread... there was more detail in a different thread which i could not locate:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...s-57841/page2/

the summary is that all 4.0 and 4.6 blocks are indeed made the same, however afterward they were internally measured for thickness of the cyl walls. The ones that happened to come out thickest were coded red and the thinner ones coded blue. They made 4.0's out of the thinner ones and 4.6's out of the thicker ones.

 

isn't 98-99 a GEMS engine? won't that make for a difficult swap?
yes.. planning on using as many of the guts from my 4.6 as possible. it has new oil pump, timing chain, plugs, and wires.

current engine has that horrible knock... could be several things. liners, main bearings, lifters? The heads need to be done on it as I am loosing coolant behind cyl 7 and some up front, likely around cyl 2.

if i am going to go through the trouble of doing the heads, and main bearings, i might as well do it all over. it is my understanding the 4.0 blocks were superior to the later 4.6 blocks (tooling, drunkeness, who knows)

i will likely be swaping out ECUs as well to rid myself of SAI... if for nothing else, I need to relocate my washer bottle, and the SAI vacuum cleaner is occupying the space for the relocation.

 

Unless you're GREAT with a welder, yes it would make it difficult.

 

Minor changes to the Gems engine will allow it to work in place of a 4.0 or 4.6 block.

As for the knock in your engine, tear it down and fix it, this will be a whole lot cheaper then building one up.

 

if you want to change a 4.0 into a 4.6 you need to replace the whole reciprocating assemble.
But personally, the first thing on your list should be to have the sleeves replaced with flanged liners.

Also I think there is a small plate you can buy to move the crank sensor on a gems block to work with a Boshe style.

 

jafir: "Pistons are different from 4.0 to 4.6. If you use 4.0 pistons, your compression ratio will go up." But that is not too significant, or exactly accurate. The different crankshafts between a 4.0 and 4.6 IS significant, as is the different connecting rod length (4.6 crankshaft and longer connecting rods gives longer stroke, obviously; increased capacity). Piston design is same, 4.0 and 4.6; compression varies due to differing dished out areas in tops of pistons.

 

It's exactly accurate. Since the stroke is longer with the 4.6 crankshaft, using the 4.0 piston will increase compression ratio.

 

Sorry, but THIS information is not accurate....

The Rover V8 started life being cast in A356, and ended its life being cast in the same alloy (albeit with the European material designation - LM25 T6). This is pretty much the best alloy you can use for any (production) cast engine block (when properly heat-treated to T6), and the same used on the GM LSx motors. It is one of the most expensive alloy's suitable for the purpose - not one of the cheapest for sure... There are a few slightly better - but so costly would be limited to Race cars, definately not mass production.
I don't know why folks keep talking of "inferior" or "superior" alloys without proof other than what some bloke said. Then again.....

Well there you go. The same "district zone manager" (i.e. someone with zero technical knowledge) who also stated they glued the liners into the block, is who gave you this info which you still believe to be true.... Sorry, but this guy is not exactly a resource anyone should be referencing. Absolutely unbelievable....

 

"Sorry, but THIS information is not accurate....

The Rover V8 started life being cast in A356, and ended its life being cast in the same alloy (albeit with the European material designation - LM25 T6). This is pretty much the best alloy you can use for any (production) cast engine block (when properly heat-treated to T6), and the same used on the GM LSx motors. It is one of the most expensive alloy's suitable for the purpose - not one of the cheapest for sure... There are a few slightly better - but so costly would be limited to Race cars, definately not mass production. I don't know why folks keep talking of "inferior" or "superior" alloys without proof other than what some bloke said. Then again....." and
"Well there you go. The same "district zone manager" (i.e. someone with zero technical knowledge) who also stated they glued the liners into the block, is who gave you this info which you still believe to be true.... Sorry, but this guy is not exactly a resource anyone should be referencing. Absolutely unbelievable...." Quite believable, people love to opinion ate, no matter the "facts."

My feelings, Exactly! Too often, too many well meaning, and some not so well meaning people too, throw around "data" with little or no proof of what they are saying; with their "facts," based only on myth, rumor, hearsay, etc. For those of us in the Rover " community," and in life in general, we would all do well to not pay any attention at all to such "facts," unless they can be supported by proof, or at least with references we can check. To do anything short of this, we would only do injustice to us all. Do your real research; don't listen to those who profess to know the facts. Rover never did use any "adhesive" for cylinder sleeves (liners), yet people keep hearing such nonsense, and some continue to believe it, even spreading such rumors to become "everyone's misinformation." The fact is, that Rover heated the blocks to 145 deg, to 150 deg. Centigrade, and pressed in the room temperature liners; certainly had no reason to use a so-called "adhesive," from BMW or from anyone else. Before accepting "facts," and certainly before spreading such "facts," verify the accuracy of such "facts," no matter the source. One Rover myth that continues in some circles, is that the Wabco ABS modulator can't be repaired with any degree of certainty. What a line; probably started by a Rover dealership---LOL!