4:11 drive train
I have battled to keep my vehicle from leaking, fading, rusting, cracking, and overall just keep it running. I love the thing and want to upgrade rather than just replace with more oem parts.
So I am now looking to replace both driveshafts with HD ones, swapping the differentials with locking ones, swap the axle shafts and rebuild the T-case.
This will take me some time but want to start learning what will be necessary and hopefully find some reviews.
I've never done anything like this before so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
So.
Q1 , is a 4:11 gear ratio an update to the stock 3:538? What's different? I do moderate off roading and would like to do more!
Q2 , who sells HD shafts and differentials?
Q3 , when rebuilding the T-case, are there better quality parts or is genuine LR the best? I already have CDL, it just leaks A LOT and I think the bearings are going out (there is some play)
So I am now looking to replace both driveshafts with HD ones, swapping the differentials with locking ones, swap the axle shafts and rebuild the T-case.
This will take me some time but want to start learning what will be necessary and hopefully find some reviews.
I've never done anything like this before so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
So.
Q1 , is a 4:11 gear ratio an update to the stock 3:538? What's different? I do moderate off roading and would like to do more!
Q2 , who sells HD shafts and differentials?
Q3 , when rebuilding the T-case, are there better quality parts or is genuine LR the best? I already have CDL, it just leaks A LOT and I think the bearings are going out (there is some play)
I have battled to keep my vehicle from leaking, fading, rusting, cracking, and overall just keep it running. I love the thing and want to upgrade rather than just replace with more oem parts.
So I am now looking to replace both driveshafts with HD ones, swapping the differentials with locking ones, swap the axle shafts and rebuild the T-case.
This will take me some time but want to start learning what will be necessary and hopefully find some reviews.
I've never done anything like this before so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
So.
Q1 , is a 4:11 gear ratio an update to the stock 3:538? What's different? I do moderate off roading and would like to do more! Definitely consider lockers.
Q2 , who sells HD shafts and differentials?
Q3 , when rebuilding the T-case, are there better quality parts or is genuine LR the best? I already have CDL, it just leaks A LOT and I think the bearings are going out (there is some play)
So I am now looking to replace both driveshafts with HD ones, swapping the differentials with locking ones, swap the axle shafts and rebuild the T-case.
This will take me some time but want to start learning what will be necessary and hopefully find some reviews.
I've never done anything like this before so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
So.
Q1 , is a 4:11 gear ratio an update to the stock 3:538? What's different? I do moderate off roading and would like to do more! Definitely consider lockers.
Q2 , who sells HD shafts and differentials?
Q3 , when rebuilding the T-case, are there better quality parts or is genuine LR the best? I already have CDL, it just leaks A LOT and I think the bearings are going out (there is some play)
Q1: yes, a 4:11 gear ratio is normally installed after switching to a larger tire. Normally, 33" or bigger. The intention is to return the power loss associated with running a larger tire. Restores symmetry to an altered design. Your speedo should return to normal or within a percentage point or two depending on your choice of tire/gear ratio.
Q2: me personally, I would first call Bill at Great Basin Rovers in Utah. But, there are a plethora of respective vendors. Justin, Lucky8, etc...
Q3: again, if it were me, I would stick to factory spec bearings. Unless, your looking at changing gear ratios; then, I'd go aftermarket. Talk to your vendor about options, pros and cons.
Yea just give Bill at Great Basin Rovers a call. he will go thru al the choices and options plus pricing on what you can and need to do.
The 4:11 gearing is the preferred upgrade to the diffs from the factory 3:54. you will see better low end torque and a slight improvement in MPG.
And yes there are a few places that sell high quality products to achieve what you ar looking to do. Only a few actually make the parts. Once again that is why I and Coors both say to call Bill. He builds and sells all the parts and has for almost 30 years. You can but other manufactures from places such as Lucky 8 and Justin is a wealth of knowledge but he is a retailer not a builder. talk to them both read thru the forums and have fun. I am hoping to start the same process this spring on my truck.
The 4:11 gearing is the preferred upgrade to the diffs from the factory 3:54. you will see better low end torque and a slight improvement in MPG.
And yes there are a few places that sell high quality products to achieve what you ar looking to do. Only a few actually make the parts. Once again that is why I and Coors both say to call Bill. He builds and sells all the parts and has for almost 30 years. You can but other manufactures from places such as Lucky 8 and Justin is a wealth of knowledge but he is a retailer not a builder. talk to them both read thru the forums and have fun. I am hoping to start the same process this spring on my truck.
Quick question on the gear change. Will RPM's be affected at highway cruising speeds? Currently, 70mph w/ stock 3:54's hover around 2.8 - 3k. Won't a higher gear ratio expand the RpM range into 3k plus at 70mph?
Q1 , is a 4:11 gear ratio an update to the stock 3:538? What's different? I do moderate off roading and would like to do more!
It's not an update per se, it's designed to have your vehicle adjust to larger tires
Q2 , who sells HD shafts and differentials?
Lucky 8, Rovers North, GBR, British 4x4. I recommend Ashcroft
Q3 , when rebuilding the T-case, are there better quality parts or is genuine LR the best? I already have CDL, it just leaks A LOT and I think the bearings are going out (there is some play)
Genuine will be the best, except for a few parts that ashcroft makes(I don't believe they make every part needed)
Use Timken bearings, same as genuine without the price
In bold ^
Depends on tire size!
Yea just give Bill at Great Basin Rovers a call. he will go thru al the choices and options plus pricing on what you can and need to do.
The 4:11 gearing is the preferred upgrade to the diffs from the factory 3:54. you will see better low end torque and a slight improvement in MPG.
And yes there are a few places that sell high quality products to achieve what you ar looking to do. Only a few actually make the parts. Once again that is why I and Coors both say to call Bill. He builds and sells all the parts and has for almost 30 years. You can but other manufactures from places such as Lucky 8 and Justin is a wealth of knowledge but he is a retailer not a builder. talk to them both read thru the forums and have fun. I am hoping to start the same process this spring on my truck.
The 4:11 gearing is the preferred upgrade to the diffs from the factory 3:54. you will see better low end torque and a slight improvement in MPG.
And yes there are a few places that sell high quality products to achieve what you ar looking to do. Only a few actually make the parts. Once again that is why I and Coors both say to call Bill. He builds and sells all the parts and has for almost 30 years. You can but other manufactures from places such as Lucky 8 and Justin is a wealth of knowledge but he is a retailer not a builder. talk to them both read thru the forums and have fun. I am hoping to start the same process this spring on my truck.
Justin has a diff guy, he's very good. My rear diff was built by GBR, my front by Lucky8.
Good to know I know he has a shop for local stuff was unaware they were doing outside shippable work now.
I have battled to keep my vehicle from leaking, fading, rusting, cracking, and overall just keep it running. I love the thing and want to upgrade rather than just replace with more oem parts.
So I am now looking to replace both driveshafts with HD ones, swapping the differentials with locking ones, swap the axle shafts and rebuild the T-case.
This will take me some time but want to start learning what will be necessary and hopefully find some reviews.
I've never done anything like this before so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
So.
Q1 , is a 4:11 gear ratio an update to the stock 3:538? What's different? I do moderate off roading and would like to do more!
Go 4.12, 4.11 is old and you probably can't find it anymore anyways. The 4.12 has better/stonger teeth count. I recommend playing around with Ashcrofts Gear Ratio Calculator. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html
Run the numbers on what you're running now. Then try different gear/tire combos to find your sweet spot, keeping in mind your current RPM's and what the new ones will be.
Q2 , who sells HD shafts and differentials?
Justin at Lucky is my go-to guy. I've spoke with Bill at GBR and he's great to deal with, too.
Q3 , when rebuilding the T-case, are there better quality parts or is genuine LR the best? I already have CDL, it just leaks A LOT and I think the bearings are going out (there is some play)
Genuine, Timken, or Ashcroft. You might consider upgrading the Cross Pin if you're opening it up anyways. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diy-rebuild-kits/lt230-rebuild-kits/hd-cross-pin.html
So I am now looking to replace both driveshafts with HD ones, swapping the differentials with locking ones, swap the axle shafts and rebuild the T-case.
This will take me some time but want to start learning what will be necessary and hopefully find some reviews.
I've never done anything like this before so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
So.
Q1 , is a 4:11 gear ratio an update to the stock 3:538? What's different? I do moderate off roading and would like to do more!
Go 4.12, 4.11 is old and you probably can't find it anymore anyways. The 4.12 has better/stonger teeth count. I recommend playing around with Ashcrofts Gear Ratio Calculator. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html
Run the numbers on what you're running now. Then try different gear/tire combos to find your sweet spot, keeping in mind your current RPM's and what the new ones will be.
Q2 , who sells HD shafts and differentials?
Justin at Lucky is my go-to guy. I've spoke with Bill at GBR and he's great to deal with, too.
Q3 , when rebuilding the T-case, are there better quality parts or is genuine LR the best? I already have CDL, it just leaks A LOT and I think the bearings are going out (there is some play)
Genuine, Timken, or Ashcroft. You might consider upgrading the Cross Pin if you're opening it up anyways. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diy-rebuild-kits/lt230-rebuild-kits/hd-cross-pin.html
My thoughts are in BOLD above
Well thank you all for the input, in a few days time I'll start piecing together all the components I need for this.
Also I'll be passing through Utah in a few months so that might give me a chance to go to GBR in person.
A bit more info. Right now I'm running 265/75/R16 tires with a 2" suspension lift. With that, my modified bumpers and my winch, I do go very far with my rover and can keep up with all my friends in there toyotas and jeeps. Problem is it just keeps up. I have dreams of owning the vehicle that shows up all there rigs and something that has dam near bullet proof components. Don't get me wrong, the stock hardware is decent, but it just gets torn to **** off road. I swap out my diff fluid every 6 months with a heavy grade 5 oil and it always comes out like silver paint.
I attached a photo of my ride with stock wheels on it.
Also I'll be passing through Utah in a few months so that might give me a chance to go to GBR in person.
A bit more info. Right now I'm running 265/75/R16 tires with a 2" suspension lift. With that, my modified bumpers and my winch, I do go very far with my rover and can keep up with all my friends in there toyotas and jeeps. Problem is it just keeps up. I have dreams of owning the vehicle that shows up all there rigs and something that has dam near bullet proof components. Don't get me wrong, the stock hardware is decent, but it just gets torn to **** off road. I swap out my diff fluid every 6 months with a heavy grade 5 oil and it always comes out like silver paint.
I attached a photo of my ride with stock wheels on it.


