4.11 gears
I run a stock 30-31 tire so there is no need.
With a 33 you need to go to a 411 to get your lower end back.
With a 33 and a locker you probably need to upgrade they axle shafts that's a lot of grip.
if your not climbing rocks your traction control should suffice, in most cases.
GRB is one of the best if you have to have the best.
With a 33 you need to go to a 411 to get your lower end back.
With a 33 and a locker you probably need to upgrade they axle shafts that's a lot of grip.
if your not climbing rocks your traction control should suffice, in most cases.
GRB is one of the best if you have to have the best.
If these tires I have weren't so damned expensive I would just get smaller ones. But they are... expensive. Also they seem to last forever.
Last edited by Charlie_V; Aug 17, 2015 at 08:47 AM.
I live in a smallish city and am not sure where to start but I'll call around today and see what available. At least it will be handy to have a price comparison and at best I'll save a pile of hard earned money. Thanks!
I run 4.12 Ashcroft gears with 315/75/16 tires and it's pretty good. It's closer to stock than I was with 265/75 tires and stock gears. I also run Ashcroft selectable lockers front and rear.
You can search and read up on what lockers are better in what situations.
You really want to install lockers at the same time as the gears, otherwise you're setting up your diffs twice.
I set up my diffs myself. It wasn't too hard. There's a guide in the RAVE and on the Ashcroft site.
You'll need a inch/lb beam torque wrench, dial indicator and magnetic base. I made a tool from flat stock steel and two bolts to adjust the carrier bearing nuts.
You'll want to replace all the bolts while in the diff. That means crown bolts and carrier bearing cup bolts. Should replace the seals and all bearings while in there too. And you'll need at least one shim pack for setting up R&P. Those parts can be had from Ashcroft or Lucky8. And you'll need gear paint to check R&P pattern.
You can search and read up on what lockers are better in what situations.
You really want to install lockers at the same time as the gears, otherwise you're setting up your diffs twice.
I set up my diffs myself. It wasn't too hard. There's a guide in the RAVE and on the Ashcroft site.
You'll need a inch/lb beam torque wrench, dial indicator and magnetic base. I made a tool from flat stock steel and two bolts to adjust the carrier bearing nuts.
You'll want to replace all the bolts while in the diff. That means crown bolts and carrier bearing cup bolts. Should replace the seals and all bearings while in there too. And you'll need at least one shim pack for setting up R&P. Those parts can be had from Ashcroft or Lucky8. And you'll need gear paint to check R&P pattern.
I run 4.12 Ashcroft gears with 315/75/16 tires and it's pretty good. It's closer to stock than I was with 265/75 tires and stock gears. I also run Ashcroft selectable lockers front and rear.
You can search and read up on what lockers are better in what situations.
You really want to install lockers at the same time as the gears, otherwise you're setting up your diffs twice.
I set up my diffs myself. It wasn't too hard. There's a guide in the RAVE and on the Ashcroft site.
You'll need a inch/lb beam torque wrench, dial indicator and magnetic base. I made a tool from flat stock steel and two bolts to adjust the carrier bearing nuts.
You'll want to replace all the bolts while in the diff. That means crown bolts and carrier bearing cup bolts. Should replace the seals and all bearings while in there too. And you'll need at least one shim pack for setting up R&P. Those parts can be had from Ashcroft or Lucky8. And you'll need gear paint to check R&P pattern.
You can search and read up on what lockers are better in what situations.
You really want to install lockers at the same time as the gears, otherwise you're setting up your diffs twice.
I set up my diffs myself. It wasn't too hard. There's a guide in the RAVE and on the Ashcroft site.
You'll need a inch/lb beam torque wrench, dial indicator and magnetic base. I made a tool from flat stock steel and two bolts to adjust the carrier bearing nuts.
You'll want to replace all the bolts while in the diff. That means crown bolts and carrier bearing cup bolts. Should replace the seals and all bearings while in there too. And you'll need at least one shim pack for setting up R&P. Those parts can be had from Ashcroft or Lucky8. And you'll need gear paint to check R&P pattern.
I was actually about to post and hoping that someone with knowledge would comment. I have NO knowledge about diffs.
From what I have read:
4.11 gears will return me to stock--OR I can just wait for these tires to wear out (probably 2 years!) and get smaller ones.
If I do gears, that would be the time to do lockers (of whatever type... still looking at that). If I do lockers, that would be the time to do HD shafts and CV's, and if I do all of that, I should also get rid of the rotoflex and get HD driveshafts front and back, maybe even including a double cardan rear from Tom Woods/Lucky8.
A SNOWBALL TO FINANCIAL HELL!
Am I right about all of that?
I haven't had a car payment on the rover since 2004 so I am not complaining; it just seems that everything I do on it requires 4 other things and I want to be sure I know what I am getting in to... for once.
Last edited by Charlie_V; Aug 18, 2015 at 01:00 PM.
Thanks, FIsheh...
I was actually about to post and hoping that someone with knowledge would comment. I have NO knowledge about diffs.
From what I have read:
4.11 gears will return me to stock--OR I can just wait for these tires to wear out (probably 2 years!) and get smaller ones.
If I do gears, that would be the time to do lockers. If I do lockers, that would be the time to do HD shafts and CV's, and if I do all of that, I should also get rid of the rotoflex and get HD driveshafts.
A SNOWBALL TO FINANCIAL HELL!
Am I right about all of that?
I was actually about to post and hoping that someone with knowledge would comment. I have NO knowledge about diffs.
From what I have read:
4.11 gears will return me to stock--OR I can just wait for these tires to wear out (probably 2 years!) and get smaller ones.
If I do gears, that would be the time to do lockers. If I do lockers, that would be the time to do HD shafts and CV's, and if I do all of that, I should also get rid of the rotoflex and get HD driveshafts.
A SNOWBALL TO FINANCIAL HELL!
Am I right about all of that?
Gears alone will only give you minimal street addition gain for less gear shifting especially on hills. IMHO hardly worth what most want to accomplish for 10x better than stock offroading capability.
Last edited by Yoops Racing; Aug 18, 2015 at 01:16 PM.
Pretty much. Cost is relative right? .. all of this will cost more than alot of D2s cost today But you will have the best of the best when it comes to off road D2 performance. There is the higher cost best/right way and the cheaper minimal way to go about this. Some will do it in stages. Lockers can be dissected several ways/types and combinations. GBR has their opinions on this and Ashcroft has theirs. Like FishEH I was also sold on complete Ashcroft myself. Terrain choice is another factor.
Gears alone will only give you minimal street addition gain for less gear shifting especially on hills. IMHO hardly worth what most want to accomplish for 10x better than stock offroading capability.
Gears alone will only give you minimal street addition gain for less gear shifting especially on hills. IMHO hardly worth what most want to accomplish for 10x better than stock offroading capability.
Yoops that is great information; thank you. Actually I bought my Disco right off the dealership floor so my investment is, well, far beyond today's prices. Haaha. FAR. Anyway, I'm waiting for Ashcroft to realize that the Euro has fallen against the dollar. Last time I checked they hadn't received that news. But I'll check it out. Thanks again!


