4.6 Ticking
#11
Check your oil pressure or have it checked. If it is low that is likely your ticking (although hard to believe oil pressure would be low at -15), if that is not it most likely a severely slipped sleeve. If the motor is coming out anyway either can be fixed. Never mentioned on here but I would probably just repair a slipped sleeve with the most current version of loctite appropriate for the cylinder fits - we use it on our OEM machines and it works great.
#13
Stock 190 thermostat currently installed. Swapping to 180 once the rebuild is done. It ticks constantly despite cold or heat. It was -15 this morning when she turned on. Still ticks. That's why I figured it was in the valve train. Just not sure. Have to tear it down.
No oil leaks. No exhaust leaks.
Leaking coolant from the front and rear of motor where the walls are really thin.
No oil leaks. No exhaust leaks.
Leaking coolant from the front and rear of motor where the walls are really thin.
The leaks could be the intake manifold gasket, but while you are that far doing the HG’s is a good idea, I recommend gel-pro gaskets, more expensive, but much better than the Brit part. I went thru a whole HG Odyssey. You can read all about it.
Liners can be pinned. While torn down have the block checked to make sure it is not cracked. While they do that have it checked it is flat. Get quotes on cleaning and replacing valve seals on the heads, and compare that to rebuilt heads from ABran.
#14
Found the separator. Pretty gummed up. Going to try to clean it out. Also the plastic hose going from the SAI pump to the hard lines was split in half. Found 2 loose exhaust bolts on #8 and #7. Going to check valve clearance tonight. Then heads come off.
I appreciate the input. Didn't think to check some of this.
I appreciate the input. Didn't think to check some of this.
#16
My 04 with 122k miles ticked/tapped terribley as soon as it warmed up.
Sleeves were not slipped(but we pinned all 8 anyway).
The cam, main and rod bearings were all badly worn, but the crank was good, so oversize bearings were not needed.
They were the noise, though strangely I would have suspected more of a knock than the tick or tapping sound.
Possibly just how the sound resonates through an all aluminum engine.
Sleeves were not slipped(but we pinned all 8 anyway).
The cam, main and rod bearings were all badly worn, but the crank was good, so oversize bearings were not needed.
They were the noise, though strangely I would have suspected more of a knock than the tick or tapping sound.
Possibly just how the sound resonates through an all aluminum engine.
#17
#18
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Sixpack577 (12-04-2018)
#19
Yep, that is how they originally assembled the block, but the adhesive was not temperature resistant - overheating breaks the bond. Pinning works,but not my favorite solution. The oem assembly process is a thermal process, liners are cold, block is warm, liners are slipped in with assembly loctite. If the engine is out they can be reassembled correclty.
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Sixpack577 (12-04-2018)
#20
Definitely found the issue on #4 exhaust. Chip in the rocker. Screwed the valve up. Ya there are several issues going on at the same time, some more worrying than others. Going to order another rocker and see about repairing the valve stem. Anyone know of a good source for just the valve parts?
Also where are you guys getting replacement parts for SAI systems? Atlantic British doesn't seem to list anything.
#4 exhaust
Also where are you guys getting replacement parts for SAI systems? Atlantic British doesn't seem to list anything.
#4 exhaust