Yep, good synth oil, regular oil changes, and premium gas. My top end looks just like that. Glad you found the leak! Fwiw, I'd get the heads done too as long as they are off.

 

[quote=marshman442;261459]If you don't go over 12 volts you should be fine. I've seen it used with just a Double A battery up to a 12 Volt car battery. If your going to pull the injectors and clean them, you might as well rebuild them.

I just purchased a fuel rail and 8 injectors off ebay for $25 to see how difficult it is to clean and rebuild them. Will be doing this when I switch out my factory wires for some 8MM.

The parts to rebuild them are dirt cheap...less than $5 an injector. Its just a few o-rings, screen, and spacers.

 

[quote=ralphobell;261625]Where did you get the parts? I was looking and found just the "O" rings for about $5.00 each. -- thats about $80 bucks just in "O" rings.

 

Top Feed Kits - Mr Injector Parts

Bosch Type 3 Fuel Injector Service Kit with Caps 8cyl - Item 6

 

Here is an update on the Rover Head Gasket Project.

All went together w/o a hitch. This is what I tackeled while the heads were off.

• pulled all of the injectors and tested and flushed them with BG Fuel Injection System Cleaner - See previous YouTube post
• Changed the O2 Sensors.
• Changed the Plugs with Bosch Plat 4
• Changed the Wires
• Changed the T-Stat
• Changed the PS pump
• Changed all PS lines - Running Royal Purple fully synthetic fluid

I started the truck no noises, no leaks, no CEL or codes, etc. However I am running hot now. I have followed the instructions / posts on how to bleed the system and had no luck.

Checked both fans, electric fan kicks on. New Radiator at 215K, New Water Pump at 188K.


The temp gauge pushes up to almost where the light would kick on, but I shut it down before it gets to that point.


Has anyone had an expansion tank cap go bad? would this cause the pressure to get too high and over heat? I can't seem to get this one figured out. need help

 

They go bad all the time. Check the o-ring and for any cracks or broken pieces. They can be purchased for under $20 from almost any parts store. I purchased mine through a local Oreilly's.

 

when you blead it? it was cold? and you had the expainsion tank elevated 6-8 inches?

 

Yep, this is what I did:

• I removed the bled screw, removed the expansion tank and raised approx 6-8" above top radiator hose.
• Filled the expansion tank until coolant was pouring out of the bleeder screw, then installed the screw while fluid was running out.
• Filled tank, and reinstalled.
• Started the truck and cranked the heat.
• Let the truck run for approx a 1/2 hour in the driveway, all while keeping an eye on the guage. Guage was pinned dead even in the middle.
• backed out of the driveway and idled down the street (approx 1000 LF) and gauge started moving up towards the red.
• I shut it down and let is cool a bit.

Since then I have replace the expansion cap and checked both fans. Both fans are working properly.

Electric fan kicks on after heating up for approx 10 minutes.

What would cause the temp gauge to spike up once the car is moving, but be ok while sitting in the drive way?

I am at a loss as to what to check next.

 

any noise inside the truck from the heater core? gurgling sound maybe.

 

Nope, no gurgling. Coolant level has not changed since I topped off the expansion tank once cooled down as part of the bleeding process.