Hey guys my son bought a 94 Disco with 171K miles. Water control valve was broken, I replaced it with a new one from Atlantic British.

I am in the process of doing the 100K maintenance that I found on here, as well as do some checking on the motor.

So far I have added Gunk engine flush to the engine and replaced the spark plugs and wires. Think I am going to flush the engine one more time and drop the oil pan and clean everything up.

I ran the engine for a little while after adding the engine flush. I went in for an hour or so and decided to do a compression test and replace the plugs one at a time. The engine was a little cool. My readings were 125, 125, 135 135 on the right bank. Do think this is okay or should I rerun it on a hot engine? I read in the manual to remove all the plugs, but it was late and I have a fear of crossing the wires up, so I did them one at a time...should I remove them all?

Engine does not smoke...the alternator or the belt tensioner is roaring, can't decide which...Plan on doing an oil pressure test this coming weekend.

I hope to bring the old girl back into fighting condition...I don't think the engine had been cleaned since 1994 man it was nasty.

Appreciate any feedback, everything I needed to know about a Land Rover Disco has come from this site.

 

Do everything on this list along with a new Rotor and cap, Rover brand only.

This is the parts list for a 60,000 mile service or a high mileage used truck, the way I do it.
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001 or Mobil 1
1 Air filter
6 Qts of engine oil
12 Qts of ATF
7 Qts of 80/90W synthetic gear oil
1 Qt of synthetic Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platium Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt
2 Bottles of SeaFoam gas additive
1 T/Stat


60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased

Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Change the coolant and t/stat
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.

Hopefully I didn't leave anything out.
Mike

 

Make sure that your son only uses premium gas, it is a requirement not a suggestion.
If you use full synthetic motor oil it will help clean the engine as he drives.
DO NOT use a Fram oil filter or a K&N air filter. They are junk on Rovers.
Do not mix coolants, if it has DexCool in it stay with DexCool, if it has green then stay with green.
I think your compression is fine.
You can remove all the plug wires at one time, just mark them.
Once you get the trk up to date you guys will love it.

 

Disco Mike - That was the list I was going down.

Spike - The control valve was broken and the motor ran hot a few times...checking compression and looking for leaks. Making sure the motor is still good, which it appears to be so far. I got the Mobil 1 filter. Right now it has nothing but H20 in it, I have some green. Going to flush the cooling system and change the thermostat out this week.

Gonna pull the alternator and carry it to the shop for a check out, I think the bearings are going...alot of roaring in that area..not sure if it's the alternator or belt tensioner.

Trying to muster enough guts to do the ATF flush.

To fix list:
Terrible power steering leak, gotta chase that down
Replace P/S reservoir bracket
Check engine light is on
Alternator or Belt Tensioner is roaring
AC is not working
Two rear lights are out
Some cleaning and she should be a ready for the beach

Thanks for the quick responses

 

A quart bottle of ATF with stop leak for the PS leak. Do not add more than half the bottle though. As it leaks out just keep adding the ATF with stop leak until the leak stops.
Check engine light, 90% of the time onDI's it is because it needs plugs and wires. Only use Magnacor or Land Rover wires, nothing else, and I mean nothing.
For your cap and rotor, only useLand Rover brand.
Put your hand on top of the alternator when it is running, you shouldnt feel anything, it should be smooth and quite, if it thumps, rattles or shakes it is your alternator bearings.
A/C needs to be recharged.
Which two rear lights are out? Are you sure that you are not just talking about the rear fog lights?
Turn the headlights on, then there is a button on the left side of the steering wheel on the dash with the symbol of a light/defroster lookingthing, press it and then go to the back of the trk, you should see bright red lights on the upper tail lights, these are so that you dont get slammed in the backside during fog, heavy snow, rain, etc.
Here are some links for parts.
www.atlanticbritish.com
www.roverconnection.com
www.roverlandparts.com
AtlanticBritish also has tech tips on the home page, read up, you'll need it.

 

For your P/S leak, check the hoses running to the reservoir. Cut off those factory crimp clamps and put a couple of worm style hose clamps on. Make sure and only use ATF for your p/s. Might want to take a turkey baster and suck the fluid out and replace with new while you are in there. Drive it around a little and then do it again. Clean everything out and check for leaks again.

 

I finished checking the compression and everything was within 10lbs of each other..so that looks good.

Started investigating the power steering leak....seems the crimp clamp on the low pressure side is leaking. Gonna get some 1/2" stainless clamps and try to fix that. UPS man brought me a new to me p/s reservoir bracket and tank today, got it from Will at roverguy.com. Hope to have the P/S back together tomorrow.

The rear bumper light is out as in hanging out [8D] I ordered most of my parts so far from British Atlantic

Alternator is the problem, I removed the belt and it didn't take one revolution by hand to hear/feel the bearings roaring. Trying to decide if I want to tackle the bearing replacement or have a shop do it. I found this site today - found the process interesting (http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdet...haltrepair.htm)

I'm enjoying working on this, appreciate the tips and help

 

Dont bother rebuilding the alternator, you can get a brand new one from AutoZone for $180 with a lifetime warrenty.
Since you are in Flordia you might want ot order from Atlantic British, shiping should be less and it will be quicker, FedEx will have it to you in two days with standard ground shipping.

 

So far I have replaced the spark plugs and wires, thermostat, P/S reservoir, P/S low pressure line and the heater control valve.

Changed the oil after an engine flush. Sea foamed the engine.

Engine is still a little rough at idle and is hesitant when you take off, once you get her abve 30 mph she runs good, had her up to 70. Check engine light is on...thinking of changing the distibutor cap and rotor and run another can of sea foam in the tank to see if she will improve anymore.

When I changed the oil I started crawling around looking for more things that needed work.

Seems the oil cooler needs some tightening or replaceing


The transfer case and transmission seem to be loosing some fluid in various places.






I'm still working on her, hopefully I can get her to idle and take off better.

 

What brand of plug wires did you use? How about cap and rotor?