Spike - I skimped on plug wires - Tell me what makes the Magnacor wires so much better?

Haven't replaced the rotor and cap yet...trying to ease into this thing...She is running better by the minute though.

Can someone tell me where the Data Link Connector is...I found a big black connector behind the glove box and disconnected it trying to clear codes...no love though...getting left o2 sensor bank error right now.

 

Yeah you cannot skimp on the wires, that is your problem. I do not know what makes the Magnecors better, they just are. Anything else and you will be having problems.
As for a cap and rotor, only use LR brand.
Your O2 fault is because of your misfire due to bad plug wires. Buy the Mangecors and then return the others for a refund.
I could be wrong, it has almost happened before, but your OBDI port is under the hood and AutoZone and such cannot read the OBDI codes.

 

Well..truth be known, it had magnecors on it when I bought it...I broke three of them trying to get them off...then I read somewhere on here they had a lifetime warranty

The codes are read via a viewer under the passenger seat...to clear them I was told to disconnect the DLC - http://www.troublecodes.net/landrvr/

Working through the issues...I'm getting there though

 

I have also heard that if you disconnect the battery for 30 minutes it too will clear the codes, just make sure that you have your radio code.
I have heard before about the Mangecors coming apart when being pulled off the trk, but they are the only wires that you can use besides OEM.
And the lifetime warrenty will be fore the orginal puchaser.

 

There is a small black box with an LED readout under the passenger seat to read your codes - it's OBDI so you won't have a port (or any reader to use). Unlike OBDII, it's a two digit code:
http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/RR/FA...ult.Codes.html

As you're going through your tuneup, make sure the distributor timing advances are working. There's the mechanical advance (springs and weights inside the distributor) and a vacuum advance (funnel shaped canister on the outside of the distributor). If you pop the cap and you can turn the rotor a few degrees counterclockwise and it springs back, the mechanical advance *should* be ok. If the distributor's not advancing the timing...it'll REALLY run like a dog.

 

Thanks for the tip...the advance seems to be working. Rotor button and cap needs to be replaced.

I found another tip sniffing around on that link you sent...If you pull the fuel injector fuse with the key in position II it will clear the codes and not mess with the radio. You will get an 02 code stating the ECU was reconnected, but it will go away once you cycle the power off and back on.