The key fob has never worked since purchased so I've always manually locked/unlocked. Considering finally ponying up and getting a new fob reprogrammed, but I need to address this first.

Just recently the key turns both ways in the drivers door and nothing happens, it seems to turn with more ease then usual as well.

Just looking for the first steps in diagnosing this issue, and input from anyone with experience. Thanks.

 

The driver door lock not only opens that door, but also triggers the unlock of others, or the superlock of others, or arming the alarm, or disarming the alarm. So you can get into a situation where a bad switch can make many things happen at once, like superlocking the truck or not disarming the alarm, and then you are stuck. At minimum will be a lever popped loose from latch, more likely will need the assembly. To get at it you will need to pry off the door panel gently using a wide putty knife or upholstery tool from auto parts store. Small plastic "push in" fasteners are used around the perimeter, if you pull hard they tear out of the styrofoam backing of the door panels. Grandma could rip them out. Be gentle. Pix of door handle internal attached.

 

Yeah, thanks to my D1's windows I'm not stranger to removing the door panels on these things. Was just curious if the problem could be mechanical and/or electrical, and if electrical if there were ways for me to test with a multi-meter, etc. I'm not sure I'll know what to look for once torn down, and nothing noticeable is out of place where to look next.

I wonder if this is somehow associated with the horn having never worked since owned either. I will tear down and report back with results.
Thanks.

 

Here's the horn circuit, pretty basic, maybe you are missing a relay in the underhood box (if some one did not like the alarm). Or some one pulled fuse 16.

 

So found the problem, but need help with a solution.

The rod at the end of the barrel in the driver's front lock assembly is broken. So the door doesn't lock/unlock with a key.

What are my options? Can I rig it up? Can I rig this aluminum rod?

Do I have to buy a whole new lock assembly? If so, will I need to have it re-keyed? (my remote is toast, manual lock/unlock only)

Thanks in advance.

 

Salvage yard near by? Dismantler on our forum (parts guys)? Bend one out of wire stock from the hardware store?

 

I had this same problem with my 2000 D2.

I ended up going to Lowes and buying a couple of large nails. I drilled a hole in one end on the drill press to fit the little pin through, and used a die grinder on the nail head to make the 4 point "star" that fits into the cylinder.

Cost me about an hour and $0.35. Worked for the next year until I sold the car.

Rover replacement is like $45 at the dealership and a cheap pot metal POS.

If you don't have a drill press, find a guy with a welding shop and take him a 6-pack. It'll still be cheaper than going to find another one.

Just my $0.02

 

Exactly the type of info I was looking for, I'm going to see what I can come up with. Even the $45 at dealership is a better option than $50 for a used replacement that might have the rod break soon anyways. Will keep you posted, thanks guys.

 

Here's a couple of pictures of the rod I was referring to. The end of it broke off which is where a small pin goes through and holds it in place. The broken off end is still stuck in behind the pin.

FYI - I got a 20D x 4 inch long nail to replicate this rod and re-install. Hopefully it works out well and for the long term.

 

DiscoIIBrandon - mine broke in the same place.

The nail method works well, providing you can accurately drill and shape it. The metal in a nail is much stronger than those rods, which are actually powdered metal that is pressure/heat formed and very brittle.

Just for insurance, I repaired my old one with some JB weld and stuck it in the glove box, but never ended up needing it. Properly done, a JB weld is going to be just as strong as the surrounding metal, but I liked the idea of a $0.35 fix on my rover...