99 Disco II t/c stuck in HI and I am stuck!!
#1
01-14-2009, 11:39 AM
99 Disco II t/c stuck in HI and I am stuck!!
The actual thing I am stuck on now is the darn hi/lo transfer case shifter not moving but maybe a half inch if that. I did a search in the forums and screened through quite a few threads on transfer case issues. I saw a few threads on removing the center console. Well I used a website called Alldatadiy.com to download all the directions I needed and have the thing off, but I don't know where the tranny tunnel rivots are. I see a bunch of rivots that go all the way around the outside from the very fron all the way to the back behind the automatic shifter handle. Are these the rivots I need to drill out? Also do I just leave the auto shifter mechanism in place or do I have to remove this before I drill out the rivots and try to remove this plate? I just want to get to the linkage and the solenoid that might be the gremlin. Thanks for all the help guys! I'm a do it yourselfer and hate knowing that things are wrong. So I have to fix them, besides, you never know when you might need the 4-lo engagement. Sorry so long, I just dont want to screw something up and then have to drop the transfer case anyways. Hell while it's out I could change the fluid 
.
Eric
.Eric
#2
01-14-2009, 01:38 PM
Recovery Vehicle
RE: 99 Disco II t/c stuck in HI and I am stuck!!
Have you tried moving the linkage while on the move,
get the truck rolling less than 5mph, then shift to Neutral, then move the lever into low, you will probably find it shifts no problem. It does need a firm push !!
Quite often it wont move from high to low if you just stop the truck , go to neutral and try to shift, also, just moving the auto lever back to D or R then back to neutral will allow it to shift. It is highly unlikely that a D2 shifter is stuck, its much more reliable than a D1 setup.
get the truck rolling less than 5mph, then shift to Neutral, then move the lever into low, you will probably find it shifts no problem. It does need a firm push !!
Quite often it wont move from high to low if you just stop the truck , go to neutral and try to shift, also, just moving the auto lever back to D or R then back to neutral will allow it to shift. It is highly unlikely that a D2 shifter is stuck, its much more reliable than a D1 setup.
#3
01-14-2009, 04:28 PM
RE: 99 Disco II t/c stuck in HI and I am stuck!!
I have tried everything I have read in these forums, LoL. Sprayed the hell out of the linkage assembly with PB Blaster, and nothing. Tried the moving thing, and nothing. My conclusion is that it is the solenoid thing that everyone keeps talking about. I am almost positive that the person that owned it before me was a soccer mom (due to some of the things I found in the vehicle). It probably never made a trip off road in it's life so the shifter never made it out of 4Hi.
I don't wanna drop the TC, so I am looking at the center console. I already have it out, and just need to know if the panel I am supposed to be moving out of the way (after I drill out the rivots) is as big as the thing I am looking at. Thanks for the reply too, and hopefully I can get this ixed before tomorrow.
I don't wanna drop the TC, so I am looking at the center console. I already have it out, and just need to know if the panel I am supposed to be moving out of the way (after I drill out the rivots) is as big as the thing I am looking at. Thanks for the reply too, and hopefully I can get this ixed before tomorrow.
#4
01-14-2009, 05:05 PM
Winching
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#5
01-14-2009, 07:15 PM
RE: 99 Disco II t/c stuck in HI and I am stuck!!
OK drilled the rivots out and sure as poopoo you have access to the linkage with no problem. Where the linkage goes into the T/C it looks really rusty, so I sprayed it with some PB Blaster and it won't budge. I am going to try to disconnect the cable from the T/C to see if the cable is binding up or not. If it's not then I guess I'll be looking to mess with the solenoid thingy. Well, back into the garage I go, LOL!
#6
01-14-2009, 08:38 PM
#7
01-15-2009, 11:15 AM
RE: 99 Disco II t/c stuck in HI and I am stuck!!
Wow, what a PITA that was. Will never do this again, I assure you of that. I was up till 2am in a garage with no damn heat and its about 15 degrees here. Cable works smoothly when disconnected. It took me a while to find the round cover that encases the solenoid because when you look down through the access hole from inside the vehicle all you can see clearly is the linkage and all kinds of wiring harness connectors. After disconnecting a bunch I managed to find what I needed and got it appart. I sawed off the nipple that clearly was blocking the movement of the trans case and after cleaning everything and putting some rtv high heat silicone on the cover buttoned it up. All I can say is thisthe replacement of the solenoid might be better achieved by someone with small hands in this scenario. I have gorilla hands and and could barely get them in where I needed to in order to tighten bolts, etc. Next time, I will lower the transfer case from under the vehicle and do this job comfortably. All I have to do now is put the whole inside back together again then I am finished and hopefully it works?!
I did manage to get my tilt steering to move about an extra inch in the up and down position which is great since I'm tall. In stock form I could barely get in and out of the vehicle because the steering wheel wouldn't adjust as far up as I needed it to. Got to love projects.
I did manage to get my tilt steering to move about an extra inch in the up and down position which is great since I'm tall. In stock form I could barely get in and out of the vehicle because the steering wheel wouldn't adjust as far up as I needed it to. Got to love projects.
#8
01-15-2009, 11:26 AM
RE: 99 Disco II t/c stuck in HI and I am stuck!!
"I did manage to get my tilt steering to move about an extra inch in the up and down position which is great since I'm tall. In stock form I could barely get in and out of the vehicle because the steering wheel wouldn't adjust as far up as I needed it to. Got to love projects."
HawesEA2: How did you manage an extra inch? I know it has the lever on the LHS of the column to move the steering wheel up and down, but I would love to move it even further...please explain. I'm tall as well and perform a "cross-legged wiggle" (for lack of a better term) to get in and out.
Thanks!
HawesEA2: How did you manage an extra inch? I know it has the lever on the LHS of the column to move the steering wheel up and down, but I would love to move it even further...please explain. I'm tall as well and perform a "cross-legged wiggle" (for lack of a better term) to get in and out.
Thanks!
#9
01-15-2009, 12:08 PM
RE: 99 Disco II t/c stuck in HI and I am stuck!!
To make a long story short, you need to remove the black colored shield under the dash that just makes it look clean under there (so you don't see any of the wiring and all). Once that is removed, remove or lower the lower dash plastic by turning those retaining locks. After that is lowered, take the 3 or 4 screws out of the plastic steering wheel shroud. After doing this the two pieces will just pull apart and will show you access to the steering column right behind the steering wheel.
Next thing I did was carefully pull the styrofoam out from under the plastic piece you lowered under the steering wheel. Then remove the metal cover that the styrofoam was connected to. This will then give you complete access to the steering column assembly. There are only 4 bolts holding it on to the dash assembly itself. Remove these bolts and drop down the steering column. Once the column is down, look at where the tilt wheel pivots on the column. There will be two bolts on each side of the steering column. When you pull the lever to activate the tilt wheel function, you will be able to see where the steering wheel stops (both up and down). These two bolts are threaded but then they have a round shanklike area that the assembly rotates on and these bolts restrain it from moving at its full capability. In order to get the bolts out (they will spin) and there is one on the left side and one on the right side, you need to insert a wrench down inside through the top of the tilt mechanism and keep the nut inside from turning as you remove the bolt on the outside. After the bolts are removed, use a bench grinder to take the material down till it's almost flush with the threaded portion on the bolt. Be very careful here as you don't want to screw the threads up. After this is done, reinsert them and put everything back together and your done. I no longer have to do the retarded crossed leg thing eith and I am 6ft1in. It's like being back in an American car again with regards to the tilt steering wheel movement. I literally got a whole extra inch ouch of the thing easy.
It doesn't do anything safety wise to the vehicle as all your doing is removing material off of the bolt and the threaded portion remains intact and I am positive this bolt is probably grade 5 or maybe grade 8. By the way if you look at the assembly once you remove the shroud, you will see the the teeth where the tilt wheel engages. From the factory, there is about an inch of teeth on this that never get used because of the material on the bolt that limits its full movement.
I now enjoy the wheel being in a more less restrictive upper position which allows me to use the brake pedal without my knee jamming into the wheel and when I get in and out I don't have to squeeze in. Hope this helps? I got all my diagrams and pictures on how to remove the steering assembly at a website called www.alldatadiy.com
I had to buy a time period to be allowed to access the land rover disco manuals, but in all the things I have had to fix since I have bought this it has been well worth it. Let me know if you engage in this, as it took about 2 to 3 hours to complete. Good luck.
Next thing I did was carefully pull the styrofoam out from under the plastic piece you lowered under the steering wheel. Then remove the metal cover that the styrofoam was connected to. This will then give you complete access to the steering column assembly. There are only 4 bolts holding it on to the dash assembly itself. Remove these bolts and drop down the steering column. Once the column is down, look at where the tilt wheel pivots on the column. There will be two bolts on each side of the steering column. When you pull the lever to activate the tilt wheel function, you will be able to see where the steering wheel stops (both up and down). These two bolts are threaded but then they have a round shanklike area that the assembly rotates on and these bolts restrain it from moving at its full capability. In order to get the bolts out (they will spin) and there is one on the left side and one on the right side, you need to insert a wrench down inside through the top of the tilt mechanism and keep the nut inside from turning as you remove the bolt on the outside. After the bolts are removed, use a bench grinder to take the material down till it's almost flush with the threaded portion on the bolt. Be very careful here as you don't want to screw the threads up. After this is done, reinsert them and put everything back together and your done. I no longer have to do the retarded crossed leg thing eith and I am 6ft1in. It's like being back in an American car again with regards to the tilt steering wheel movement. I literally got a whole extra inch ouch of the thing easy.
It doesn't do anything safety wise to the vehicle as all your doing is removing material off of the bolt and the threaded portion remains intact and I am positive this bolt is probably grade 5 or maybe grade 8. By the way if you look at the assembly once you remove the shroud, you will see the the teeth where the tilt wheel engages. From the factory, there is about an inch of teeth on this that never get used because of the material on the bolt that limits its full movement.
I now enjoy the wheel being in a more less restrictive upper position which allows me to use the brake pedal without my knee jamming into the wheel and when I get in and out I don't have to squeeze in. Hope this helps? I got all my diagrams and pictures on how to remove the steering assembly at a website called www.alldatadiy.com
I had to buy a time period to be allowed to access the land rover disco manuals, but in all the things I have had to fix since I have bought this it has been well worth it. Let me know if you engage in this, as it took about 2 to 3 hours to complete. Good luck.
#10
01-15-2009, 12:21 PM
RE: 99 Disco II t/c stuck in HI and I am stuck!!
ORIGINAL: HawesEA2
To make a long story short, you need to remove the black colored shield under the dash that just makes it look clean under there (so you don't see any of the wiring and all). Once that is removed, remove or lower the lower dash plastic by turning those retaining locks. After that is lowered, take the 3 or 4 screws out of the plastic steering wheel shroud. After doing this the two pieces will just pull apart and will show you access to the steering column right behind the steering wheel.
Next thing I did was carefully pull the styrofoam out from under the plastic piece you lowered under the steering wheel. Then remove the metal cover that the styrofoam was connected to. This will then give you complete access to the steering column assembly. There are only 4 bolts holding it on to the dash assembly itself. Remove these bolts and drop down the steering column. Once the column is down, look at where the tilt wheel pivots on the column. There will be two bolts on each side of the steering column. When you pull the lever to activate the tilt wheel function, you will be able to see where the steering wheel stops (both up and down). These two bolts are threaded but then they have a round shanklike area that the assembly rotates on and these bolts restrain it from moving at its full capability. In order to get the bolts out (they will spin) and there is one on the left side and one on the right side, you need to insert a wrench down inside through the top of the tilt mechanism and keep the nut inside from turning as you remove the bolt on the outside. After the bolts are removed, use a bench grinder to take the material down till it's almost flush with the threaded portion on the bolt. Be very careful here as you don't want to screw the threads up. After this is done, reinsert them and put everything back together and your done. I no longer have to do the retarded crossed leg thing eith and I am 6ft1in. It's like being back in an American car again with regards to the tilt steering wheel movement. I literally got a whole extra inch ouch of the thing easy.
It doesn't do anything safety wise to the vehicle as all your doing is removing material off of the bolt and the threaded portion remains intact and I am positive this bolt is probably grade 5 or maybe grade 8. By the way if you look at the assembly once you remove the shroud, you will see the the teeth where the tilt wheel engages. From the factory, there is about an inch of teeth on this that never get used because of the material on the bolt that limits its full movement.
I now enjoy the wheel being in a more less restrictive upper position which allows me to use the brake pedal without my knee jamming into the wheel and when I get in and out I don't have to squeeze in. Hope this helps? I got all my diagrams and pictures on how to remove the steering assembly at a website called www.alldatadiy.com
I had to buy a time period to be allowed to access the land rover disco manuals, but in all the things I have had to fix since I have bought this it has been well worth it. Let me know if you engage in this, as it took about 2 to 3 hours to complete. Good luck.
To make a long story short, you need to remove the black colored shield under the dash that just makes it look clean under there (so you don't see any of the wiring and all). Once that is removed, remove or lower the lower dash plastic by turning those retaining locks. After that is lowered, take the 3 or 4 screws out of the plastic steering wheel shroud. After doing this the two pieces will just pull apart and will show you access to the steering column right behind the steering wheel.
Next thing I did was carefully pull the styrofoam out from under the plastic piece you lowered under the steering wheel. Then remove the metal cover that the styrofoam was connected to. This will then give you complete access to the steering column assembly. There are only 4 bolts holding it on to the dash assembly itself. Remove these bolts and drop down the steering column. Once the column is down, look at where the tilt wheel pivots on the column. There will be two bolts on each side of the steering column. When you pull the lever to activate the tilt wheel function, you will be able to see where the steering wheel stops (both up and down). These two bolts are threaded but then they have a round shanklike area that the assembly rotates on and these bolts restrain it from moving at its full capability. In order to get the bolts out (they will spin) and there is one on the left side and one on the right side, you need to insert a wrench down inside through the top of the tilt mechanism and keep the nut inside from turning as you remove the bolt on the outside. After the bolts are removed, use a bench grinder to take the material down till it's almost flush with the threaded portion on the bolt. Be very careful here as you don't want to screw the threads up. After this is done, reinsert them and put everything back together and your done. I no longer have to do the retarded crossed leg thing eith and I am 6ft1in. It's like being back in an American car again with regards to the tilt steering wheel movement. I literally got a whole extra inch ouch of the thing easy.
It doesn't do anything safety wise to the vehicle as all your doing is removing material off of the bolt and the threaded portion remains intact and I am positive this bolt is probably grade 5 or maybe grade 8. By the way if you look at the assembly once you remove the shroud, you will see the the teeth where the tilt wheel engages. From the factory, there is about an inch of teeth on this that never get used because of the material on the bolt that limits its full movement.
I now enjoy the wheel being in a more less restrictive upper position which allows me to use the brake pedal without my knee jamming into the wheel and when I get in and out I don't have to squeeze in. Hope this helps? I got all my diagrams and pictures on how to remove the steering assembly at a website called www.alldatadiy.com
I had to buy a time period to be allowed to access the land rover disco manuals, but in all the things I have had to fix since I have bought this it has been well worth it. Let me know if you engage in this, as it took about 2 to 3 hours to complete. Good luck.
Excellent...I will take it apart next weekend and keep you posted...I'm about 6'3' and 230 pounds...once I'm in though, the seat fits like a glove, but I cannot see the top half of the speedometer because of the steering wheel and have to perform the "cross-legged wiggle" of course to enter/exit. Thanks for the write-up.
One more thing...do you think a dremel will work instead of a bench grinder?