99 Disco II t/c stuck in HI and I am stuck!!
#11
01-15-2009, 01:36 PM
RE: 99 Disco II t/c stuck in HI and I am stuck!!
ORIGINAL: mwindth
HawesEA2,
Excellent...I will take it apart next weekend and keep you posted...I'm about 6'3' and 230 pounds...once I'm in though, the seat fits like a glove, but I cannot see the top half of the speedometer because of the steering wheel and have to perform the "cross-legged wiggle" of course to enter/exit. Thanks for the write-up.
One more thing...do you think a dremel will work instead of a bench grinder?
ORIGINAL: HawesEA2
To make a long story short, you need to remove the black colored shield under the dash that just makes it look clean under there (so you don't see any of the wiring and all). Once that is removed, remove or lower the lower dash plastic by turning those retaining locks. After that is lowered, take the 3 or 4 screws out of the plastic steering wheel shroud. After doing this the two pieces will just pull apart and will show you access to the steering column right behind the steering wheel.
Next thing I did was carefully pull the styrofoam out from under the plastic piece you lowered under the steering wheel. Then remove the metal cover that the styrofoam was connected to. This will then give you complete access to the steering column assembly. There are only 4 bolts holding it on to the dash assembly itself. Remove these bolts and drop down the steering column. Once the column is down, look at where the tilt wheel pivots on the column. There will be two bolts on each side of the steering column. When you pull the lever to activate the tilt wheel function, you will be able to see where the steering wheel stops (both up and down). These two bolts are threaded but then they have a round shanklike area that the assembly rotates on and these bolts restrain it from moving at its full capability. In order to get the bolts out (they will spin) and there is one on the left side and one on the right side, you need to insert a wrench down inside through the top of the tilt mechanism and keep the nut inside from turning as you remove the bolt on the outside. After the bolts are removed, use a bench grinder to take the material down till it's almost flush with the threaded portion on the bolt. Be very careful here as you don't want to screw the threads up. After this is done, reinsert them and put everything back together and your done. I no longer have to do the retarded crossed leg thing eith and I am 6ft1in. It's like being back in an American car again with regards to the tilt steering wheel movement. I literally got a whole extra inch ouch of the thing easy.
It doesn't do anything safety wise to the vehicle as all your doing is removing material off of the bolt and the threaded portion remains intact and I am positive this bolt is probably grade 5 or maybe grade 8. By the way if you look at the assembly once you remove the shroud, you will see the the teeth where the tilt wheel engages. From the factory, there is about an inch of teeth on this that never get used because of the material on the bolt that limits its full movement.
I now enjoy the wheel being in a more less restrictive upper position which allows me to use the brake pedal without my knee jamming into the wheel and when I get in and out I don't have to squeeze in. Hope this helps? I got all my diagrams and pictures on how to remove the steering assembly at a website called www.alldatadiy.com
I had to buy a time period to be allowed to access the land rover disco manuals, but in all the things I have had to fix since I have bought this it has been well worth it. Let me know if you engage in this, as it took about 2 to 3 hours to complete. Good luck.
To make a long story short, you need to remove the black colored shield under the dash that just makes it look clean under there (so you don't see any of the wiring and all). Once that is removed, remove or lower the lower dash plastic by turning those retaining locks. After that is lowered, take the 3 or 4 screws out of the plastic steering wheel shroud. After doing this the two pieces will just pull apart and will show you access to the steering column right behind the steering wheel.
Next thing I did was carefully pull the styrofoam out from under the plastic piece you lowered under the steering wheel. Then remove the metal cover that the styrofoam was connected to. This will then give you complete access to the steering column assembly. There are only 4 bolts holding it on to the dash assembly itself. Remove these bolts and drop down the steering column. Once the column is down, look at where the tilt wheel pivots on the column. There will be two bolts on each side of the steering column. When you pull the lever to activate the tilt wheel function, you will be able to see where the steering wheel stops (both up and down). These two bolts are threaded but then they have a round shanklike area that the assembly rotates on and these bolts restrain it from moving at its full capability. In order to get the bolts out (they will spin) and there is one on the left side and one on the right side, you need to insert a wrench down inside through the top of the tilt mechanism and keep the nut inside from turning as you remove the bolt on the outside. After the bolts are removed, use a bench grinder to take the material down till it's almost flush with the threaded portion on the bolt. Be very careful here as you don't want to screw the threads up. After this is done, reinsert them and put everything back together and your done. I no longer have to do the retarded crossed leg thing eith and I am 6ft1in. It's like being back in an American car again with regards to the tilt steering wheel movement. I literally got a whole extra inch ouch of the thing easy.
It doesn't do anything safety wise to the vehicle as all your doing is removing material off of the bolt and the threaded portion remains intact and I am positive this bolt is probably grade 5 or maybe grade 8. By the way if you look at the assembly once you remove the shroud, you will see the the teeth where the tilt wheel engages. From the factory, there is about an inch of teeth on this that never get used because of the material on the bolt that limits its full movement.
I now enjoy the wheel being in a more less restrictive upper position which allows me to use the brake pedal without my knee jamming into the wheel and when I get in and out I don't have to squeeze in. Hope this helps? I got all my diagrams and pictures on how to remove the steering assembly at a website called www.alldatadiy.com
I had to buy a time period to be allowed to access the land rover disco manuals, but in all the things I have had to fix since I have bought this it has been well worth it. Let me know if you engage in this, as it took about 2 to 3 hours to complete. Good luck.
Excellent...I will take it apart next weekend and keep you posted...I'm about 6'3' and 230 pounds...once I'm in though, the seat fits like a glove, but I cannot see the top half of the speedometer because of the steering wheel and have to perform the "cross-legged wiggle" of course to enter/exit. Thanks for the write-up.
One more thing...do you think a dremel will work instead of a bench grinder?
#12
01-15-2009, 02:11 PM
RE: 99 Disco II t/c stuck in HI and I am stuck!!
[*]Open fascia lower access panel.[/ol]
[*]Remove 3 screws securing steering column nacelle halves together.[*]Release clips securing nacelle together and remove from steering column.[/ol]
12. Remove 4 nuts securing steering column assembly to fascia rail and remove steering column assembly. (These are the 4 bolts that will allow the whole shaft to come out).
In between number 7 and number 10 on the diagram is where the 2 bolts will be located. They are on the left and right side. The are where you will need to use a wrench to keep the nuts from turning is in the same general area, but you will need to get the wrench in between the springs which you can see in the above photo (the 2 springs located on top of the area in between number 7 and 10). Oh and by the way, you don't have to disconnect any wiring harnesses for this one. I may have had to move one out of the way though. Number 7 in the photo above is actually the tilt lever.
Steering Column Assembly and Intermediate Shaft.
1
[/b]Air bag module
2
[/b]Steering wheel and nut
3
[/b]Horn switch 2 off
4
[/b]Radio remote control switch
5
[/b]Column switches
6
[/b]Lower nacelle
7
[/b]Column tilt adjustment lever
8
[/b]Steering column lock
9
[/b]Ignition switch and harness
10
[/b]Lower column
11
[/b]Lower bearing
12
[/b]Universal joint and split adapter
13
[/b]Bolt
14
[/b]Bolt
15
[/b]Intermediate shaft
16
[/b]Compression joint
17
[/b]Rubber coupling and heat shield
18
[/b]Bolt
19
[/b]Universal joint
20
[/b]Column tube
21
[/b]Shear bolt 2 off
22
[/b]Rotary coupler
23
[/b]Upper nacelle
24
[/b]Cruise control switch (if fitted)
[*]Remove 3 screws securing steering column nacelle halves together.[*]Release clips securing nacelle together and remove from steering column.[/ol]
12. Remove 4 nuts securing steering column assembly to fascia rail and remove steering column assembly. (These are the 4 bolts that will allow the whole shaft to come out).
In between number 7 and number 10 on the diagram is where the 2 bolts will be located. They are on the left and right side. The are where you will need to use a wrench to keep the nuts from turning is in the same general area, but you will need to get the wrench in between the springs which you can see in the above photo (the 2 springs located on top of the area in between number 7 and 10). Oh and by the way, you don't have to disconnect any wiring harnesses for this one. I may have had to move one out of the way though. Number 7 in the photo above is actually the tilt lever.
Steering Column Assembly and Intermediate Shaft.
1
[/b]Air bag module
2
[/b]Steering wheel and nut
3
[/b]Horn switch 2 off
4
[/b]Radio remote control switch
5
[/b]Column switches
6
[/b]Lower nacelle
7
[/b]Column tilt adjustment lever
8
[/b]Steering column lock
9
[/b]Ignition switch and harness
10
[/b]Lower column
11
[/b]Lower bearing
12
[/b]Universal joint and split adapter
13
[/b]Bolt
14
[/b]Bolt
15
[/b]Intermediate shaft
16
[/b]Compression joint
17
[/b]Rubber coupling and heat shield
18
[/b]Bolt
19
[/b]Universal joint
20
[/b]Column tube
21
[/b]Shear bolt 2 off
22
[/b]Rotary coupler
23
[/b]Upper nacelle
24
[/b]Cruise control switch (if fitted)
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