I have a '99 Discovery Series I, and after four trips to the shop/dealer in the past four weeks, I've had THREE new alternators and TWO new batteries put in. It runs fine for about a day, then the problem returns. The issue is that when I drive it, with ANY accessories on, it loses power. First the "Anti Lock" light comes on on the dash, then the "SRS" light, and when things get really bad, the battery light comes on. So I have had to turn ALL of the accessories (including the headlights at night) off, and haved limped it home every time but once. This ALWAYS happens when the headlights are on. I had the driver's side headlight replaced a number of months ago, if that is any clue. The dealer tested it and claims there is no power drain. As we speak, it's sitting in my garage and won't start. I love my truck, but this is just getting to be too much, not to mention way to expensive! Please help! Thank you!

 

I hope the dealer is NOT charging you each and every time for a new alternator.
I would look at tghe belt tensioner being bad thus causing the belt to be to loose.
Hold on, brain fart...I bet they are installing the belt wrong.
It is VERY easy to route the belt wrong on a DI.
Does the belt look like this?
http://www.roverparts.com/TechTips/s...g_defender.cfm

 

UN-BELIEVABLE! I checked out your diagram, grabbed my flashlight and went out to the garage and flipped the hood. The belt is NOT routed as in your diagram!!! The belt goes all the way over the top three pulleys and then down. I can't believe the DEALER didn't catch this! I'll have something nice to teach them when I bring it in tomorrow morning! Thank you SO much for that helpful diagram - I really appreciate it!

 

Print that page from AB and take it to the dealer with you, and I would demand some money back.
I do not know why your took your truck in to begine with, bad battery or bad alternator...whichever part was good that they replaced and didnt need to, make them refund your money.
And throw in a free oil change for your wasted time.

 

Actually, what happened was I originally thought it was the alternator. So I took it to a shop that works on my Mercedes, as one of their mechanics "used to work for Rover". They put an aftermarket alternator in, and then the truck started doing the same thing. So they concluded the alternator was bad. So they sent it back and got another aftermarket one. Same result, so they sent it back and ordered one through Rover. Same result, so I finally broke down and took it to the dealer. They said the alternator, starter and system checked out fine but that the battery I had in there was too small (though it's the one Autozone had listedon their computer for that truck). So the dealer put in a bigger battery and told me my problem was solved. And it was...for about 24 hours. As you can see, this has been an absolute nightmare. I only was charged for the LR alternator, shafted for overnight shipping, and then charged the 1.2 hr. "diagnostic charge" and new battery cost by the dealer. I do believe the alternator was bad when I originally took it in, but now after all is said and done, it's cost me over $1500.

 

I would go straight to the service manager and have the charges reversed, if they fight you on this, get back to me.
By the way, how did you pay for these3 charges?

 

I paid for the three alternators put on at the private shop with a credit card, and same for the "diagnostic charge" and new battery ($300, total) at Land Rover of Lake Bluff (IL).

 

So, took it in this morning with the correct serpentine belt routing diagram. The first mechanic to look at it said, 'oops! THAT is why you're having this problem.' Then the service writer called the shop foreman over who told me the routing of the belt would make NO difference. When I found theservice manager and told her I expected an adjustment on the $300 bill I received on Thursday, I got a big run around. I was told of how the diagnostic check WAS performed (though the "factory trained technician" failed to notice that the belt was obviously improperly installed), and that I had agreed to that charge when I first brought the truck in. I was also told that the 2 week old battery I had in the truck "failed" when tested, thus I had to pay the $95 for the new one. I told her that since the new battery needed to be jumped two days after they installed it, that it most likely would have "failed" the test, as well. Eventually I was refunded about $180 for the "diagnostic check", though I still ended up paying for a new battery, which most likely I didn't need. Truck is running great and strong (even with all of the accessories on), so I'm keeping my fingers crossed!

 

I am sure that you got a better battery than what AutoZone sells, but thats not the point.
If the belt routing makes no difference then why is there a diagram as how ro route it? Why does the truck run fine now? It makes no sense, you know?
Who re-routed the belt for you?
What did the first shop say?
Have you called your credit card company? Or bank if you wrote a check?
Bottom line the first shop should have known how to route the belt and the dealer sure as hell should have known.
Glad all is well now.

 

The first shop told me the same thing: the routing makes no difference. I have to believe it DOES make a difference. This morning the "Check Engine" light came on (which is a totally new issue), but as long the power issue has been corrected, I can deal with that. Thanks again very much for your help, guys! I really appreciate it!