Hey everyone,

About to try this again, this time I got the heads machined . They were .004 off and high in the middle which makes sense about leaking around the jackets.

I'm also using that copper spray (which I don't know how to use) and I got ARP lube for the head bolts plus a angle gauge for the head bolts.

Any advice ?

 

Also using blue hylomar for the valley pan gasket to ensure no leaks around there.

 

U said you are trying this again. What happened the first time.

 

I didn't machine the heads, and used cheap RTV for the valley pan, I got coolant into the exhaust and was leaking out of the jacket on passenger side closest to the firewall.

The reason I decided to swap the gaskets is because I was leaking coolant out the front and back (it wasn't blown yet and drivable) and it was leaking onto the starter motor and what I believe is the crank position sensor and decided it would be good preventative maitnence to swap them (this is my 1st HG job and before this I've never dived past the valve covers)

 

Alrighty. Question did you put new valve seals in also. First I would spay the surfaces with brake cleaner to make sure there is no grease left. Then place gaskets on block making sure they are the right way up.. Then Carefully place head on to block allowing the heads to fit properly into guides. Take head bolts and give them a shot of the lube you have on the threads. (I just dipped threads into some clean motor oil) starting from center working your way out word (make sure you use the rave manual for the tightening sequence) First place all the bolts in and in the correct sequence tighten them just to hand tight. Then repeat the sequence but now torquing them to 15ft lbs. Now same sequence again tighten the bolts with a 90 degree turn. Now final same sequence is tighten bolts with another 90 degree turn. I found using a degree wheel hard so instead what I did was marked lines on a socket. If you look at the square open end of a socket it has 4 corners. If you use a marker and mark a straight line down the side of the socket where the 4 corners are. from corner to corner would be 90 degrees if you turn the socket so from each line is a 90 degree turn when you tighten the bolt. Jut make a little mark on the head to line up with the line you just made on the socket as a starting point. now turn socket until it lines up with the next line and u have completed a 90 degree turn. I also suggest using a impact swivel socket for the 2 bolts closest to the firewall. When you get the heads on and all tightened up let me know then I can help you with intake gasket.

 

Glad you found that heads needed machining, this confirms that your first phase was probably done correctly.

 

Ok I have the passenger side head installed, everything went smooth. Abandoned the angle gauge... that thing is worthless.

Just marked all the bolts and following that carefully.

I sprayed the block side of the gasket only with the copper spray.

 

You are not putting in crap head gaskets right?
You are putting in Victor Rheinz I hope.

You are marking the head bolts with a line acroos them to gauge the 2 90 degree turns in the bolt down sequence..

Personally I WOULD NOT use that blue Hylomar. Throw it in the ash can.

I would NOT use any copper on the surface. Just keep it dry.

use permatex non hardening around the front and back of the engine where the heads meet the front and back and the rubber lips go on.

But, if Mike says Copper works.. Than it must.

 

I used Victor Rheinz, they had a good price and seemed to have a high success rate over long periods of time.

I marked the bolts with a sharpie after I got them all to 15ftlb and went in the sequence illustrated in the RAVE.

Rover techs in San Diego along with a few others seemed to really like hylomar, why don't you like it?

Also why against the copper spray? It's just like a little added insurance.

 

tighten her down and start it up