My new to me Landy had had the 3 amigos, TC wasn't working and I had the brake light too so I bought an Autel AL619 and it spit out this list of codes!

ABS CODES
Shuttle cable switch failure
PWM signal failure from engine
Rear left sensor output too low
Rear right sensor output too low
Rear left sensor electrical failure
Rear right sensor electrical failure
Rear right inlet valve short to internal supply
Rear right outlet valve short to internal supply
Front right sensor signal erratic -- I'm pretty sure this is due to a

bad wheel bearing here.
Rear left sensor signal erratic
Rear right sensor signal erratic
Shuttle valve switch electrical failure
Engine speed input signal intermittent or missing

The front right wheel bearing and ball joints were bad which leads to believe the Front Right sensor message is cause of that. I installing new hubs for both sides and all the joints to rebuild the front end this weekend. The new hubs are com ewith new sensors but I don't think my front sensors are bad from that list. I'm wondering if I can swap the old fronts to the back wheels if just cleaning them doesn't work when I get to it?

It also looks like someone did the option B fix as I found some wiring that looks like that near the abs unit.





My plan is to finish the front rebuild, clean the rears, clear the codes and see what comes back. Is there anything on that list that I should be looking to address now or are some of those codes just fallout of the system being in such a messy state?

 

looks like you are on the right track.

double check the ground connection and all the rewired connections on the Option B fix the OP did just in case something came loose.

 

Alright, I put in new front hubs with sensors and moved the front sensors to the rear and got my ABS is working again! I was even able to test it crawling up a steep dirt pile so I know the traction control is working now and that is fun to see in action. I rewired all 4 sensors with new connectors when I reinstalled since the front connectors crumbled to dust on me. I am either the luckiest person alive or the wiring doesn't matter with these sensors. I couldn't find any information either way about it so I just guessed and now it's all working. Would love to confirm if the wiring is important still though so if anyone knows that'd be cool to hear.

This is the kit I used if anyone is interested. I got the two pin version obviously. I also extended the truck side of the harness at all 4 corners to make the connection easier to reach and work with. I just crimped the connections and heat shrinked them. Well see if that last a water crossing some time in the future but it was good enough for the SLABS computer.

Anyway, all my abs codes are gone now and I'm off to fix the ODBII codes I still have. If anyone is still reading and wants to help I'm getting codes for all 4 O2 sensors and one for the passenger knock sensor
P0150
P0130
P0161
P0141
P0327 for the knock sensor

I've ordered a knock sensor and will swap it once it comes in but the O2s I'm hesitant to just swap them. One of the trucks previous owners installed headers and removed the cats so I'm wondering/assuming that's my O2 sensors issue and if there a cheat around it before I do swap them.

 

Those are very similar to the connectors I have used for the same purpose. I originally resisted buying the proper crimping tool the the proper tool is money well spent, in my opinion.

And as for the wiring, polarity does not matter for the wheel speed sensors; it's just a circuit out and back, so to speak.

 

This is extremely true

Thank you for confirming. I struggled with this as I couldn't find solid info on it.

 

I don't recommend this plug kit. An hour of slow driving dirt roads rattled the rear connector so bad the 3 Amigos came back and I could get it to go away. I finally cut them out and crimped and heat shrunk the rear and all is well again.

Still have them on the front but they're up in the engine bar. I'm guess being farther from the frame dampened the vibrations. On the rear I had just snapped the plug bodies into the bracket for the factory connection.