I presume you're working on a RHD Rover, on a LHD, the SLABS ECU is best accessed by opening the glove box, releasing the catches, and let the compartment pivot all the way down. Then if you look through the resulting hole toward the outside of the vehicle you will see the SLABS ECU nested next to the PCM. I don't know how much mirroring that Rover did with component location but it's worth a look and the glove box is easy to drop. After I did the shuttle valve rewire, I had to clear the code with the "ABS Amigo", don't know if it will clear itself. Personally, I'd do the rewire option first before buying any parts. (all I had was the 114 code and the rewire worked for me)

 

I did the fix last Sunday. This is day three and no light show. I did the full monty. Pulled the unit out, bypassed the internal connection (figured if I was going to do it, I would eliminate all the possible problems). I bought the kit from Falconworks. $140 vs just the switch for $60 on Ebay. The extra shuttle valve seals may not have been needed since that area of the ABS was dry. I bleed the brakes the conventional way and they seem normal. The hill decent control seems to work normally. Thank you all for your great help!

Mark D
mother-in-law, "are you going to paint that car?"

 

Hi Bkreutz - yup that's right, its a RHD D2, Td5. i will have a look under the glove box, i think most of that stuff is mirrored. I was a bit confused, because I thought I'd read something about it being under the passenger seat, but its obviously not there.

Do you know whether the lights go away immediately if the problem is fixed - that is to say if i find a broken connection and flex it, will the lights go on and off? Or is it a matter of fixing it and then waiting for some sort of polling cycle?

Thanks guys might tackle this on the weekend (before buying anything)!

 

I completed the ABS fault fix a couple of months ago and the lights went off right away. Also confirmed with my Rover mechanic and he said no resetting needed.

Was NOT successful with regular manual brake bleed procedure - had to let the mechanic do a TestBook/T4 power bleed to get rid of the air in the lines.

Al
03 D2 SE7

 

The State of the Amigos Address, March 25, 2013.

Ok, well the symptoms have changed, which means I am hopefully on the right track. I don't think we can get the Amigo Buddy here in Oz, and definitely no hope of a quick testbook code read without a long wait and $$$ at the dealer, so trying to proceed methodically.

Before I started, the 3 lights were on constantly. Last weekend, I went with "option B" but removed the whole modulator. The switches checked out fine in the various on/off combinations. I bought the trailer harness and rewired it per the directions. Made sure grounding point was nice and clean, etc. Bled the brakes to the best of my ability afterwards, so they do feel pretty good.

Now when i start up, only the ABS light is lit. Then all 3 go out for the first few minutes of driving, then *ding ding ding* and all 3 come back on. So this is different at least

observations: When I took apart the modulator, the holes where the valves are were CAKED over with some sort of crystalline gunk, not sure if it was corrosion residue or old brake fluid. I didn't see any sign of leakage. I cleaned off as much of this gunk as I could from the mating faces and around the holes where the stiff springs are seated.

i *suspect* maybe now it just needs a good flushing and proper bleeding, but I hate to do that really until its the last thing i try (so i don't have to pay to do it twice).

Any thoughts on what to check next now that the state of the lights has changed as I described? Thanks for any pointers, cheers
adam

 

I completed the "B" mod yesterday afternoon. Was tricky getting the 4mm allen bolts out from under the svs unit but i persevered and managed to get it done.

When metering out the unit i couldn't get and results with my fluke electrical tester so i headed down to the auto repair shop to pick up a basic test meter with the low ohms (200k) setting and bingo, all good!

While down at the auto shop i picked up a great little ratchet that just accepts the small bits that come with those all in one screwdrivers. If i'd have had that when removing the bottom plate my life would have been so much easier. Anyway replacement was simple and quick with this tool. Well recommended!

One question tho is the 8 x 6mm allen bolts on the from of the unit. Is it really necessary to remove these if your just doing the "B" mod?

 

Mike

No need. See my previous posts

Al

 

I replaced the the old modulator part with the Falconworks kit and was going to replace the seals also. When I removed the plunger nut and removed the plunger the whole thing came out. I replaced the plunger but when I went to put the plunger back in it won't go. What is going on?

 

I completed "B" last night but the 3 amigos are still there. Today I went by the LR dealer and they scanned it and said it was the shuttle valve but didn't remember what the specific code was. They cleared the coded but the amigos came back on. The only thing I could think of was the connector not getting a good ground so when I got home I cleaned it and tightened back up- still nothing changed.

I used a multimeter and everything tested peroperly and went back together as planned. What else am I missing?

Thanking you in advance for any help!!!

 

Since my tech pulled the.master cylinder on friday (rebuild kit coming from dealer monday), I decided to pull tbe abs module and do B, grounding to the bolt underneath the inward issolator.

When the master cylinder gets fixed on monday we will use the MaxiDas to bleed the system. Is there anything special I need to tell my tech?

Thanks!