ABS MODULATOR FIX (NO more SVS fault)
#281
Hi everyone, I’m just wondering about a few things. Does anyone have a diagram or picture showing the AC bolt that can be used for grounding?
Also, at the local O’Reilly shop I only found a 12” 2-wire trailer connector. Is that long enough? I bought a 25’ roll of 4-wire 16 AWG braided that was in the same section, but it wasn’t cheap - about $16. If you use a trailer wire connector do you just cut off the connector? I’d prefer to eliminate the janky connector on the SVS and solder all the wiring or use proper connectors rather than plug the trailer connector into that part of the SVS.
Do you need to disconnect the battery when doing this or connect one wire before grounding, or the opposite, or doesn’t matter?
I replaced the SVS about a year ago but didn’t know about this fix. Still got amigos that come on usually about 15 minutes into a drive or so.
Also, at the local O’Reilly shop I only found a 12” 2-wire trailer connector. Is that long enough? I bought a 25’ roll of 4-wire 16 AWG braided that was in the same section, but it wasn’t cheap - about $16. If you use a trailer wire connector do you just cut off the connector? I’d prefer to eliminate the janky connector on the SVS and solder all the wiring or use proper connectors rather than plug the trailer connector into that part of the SVS.
Do you need to disconnect the battery when doing this or connect one wire before grounding, or the opposite, or doesn’t matter?
I replaced the SVS about a year ago but didn’t know about this fix. Still got amigos that come on usually about 15 minutes into a drive or so.
#282
Cut that 2 wire from Oreillys in half (one part connects to the Shuttle Valve Switch) and the other half connects to the Yellow/Green Wire & the ground. For the AC ground location locate the PS reservoir, then look down and you'll see the AC line along the fender. You can't miss the bolt securing the line down.
#283
So that 12” 2-wire is long enough for this? OK I’ll go back and get one and return the longer 25’ 4-wire roll.
When you say cut it in half, you mean lengthwise, so it’ll be 6” on each side? I think that 2-wire had connectors on both sides and it seemed awfully short since I think it’s 12” including the connectors, so the wires are really only about 8” each. I’m worried that cutting it in half would result in 4” wires that wouldn’t reach. I’m just not getting it somehow I don’t understand cutting the connector in half, unless that means split the connector so it’s just two separated wires?... It seems I’d only want to cut off the trailer connectors on each end, then pull the 2-wire apart so it’s just two short individual wires (black and white) and cut each wire in the SVS in half to splice in the wires, then take one to the green/yellow and the other to ground. Maybe I’m mixing up all sorts of different options?
Is it possible to use regular 16 AWG braided wire to do this, so I wouldn’t have to try to manage with a really short trailer connector and have to use or trash the 2-wire connectors? I think I made a mistake and thought Option B was cutting off the SVS 2-wire connector, rather than plugging the 2-wire trailer connector into it... I don’t know what I’m talking about anymore haha not that I ever did
When you say cut it in half, you mean lengthwise, so it’ll be 6” on each side? I think that 2-wire had connectors on both sides and it seemed awfully short since I think it’s 12” including the connectors, so the wires are really only about 8” each. I’m worried that cutting it in half would result in 4” wires that wouldn’t reach. I’m just not getting it somehow I don’t understand cutting the connector in half, unless that means split the connector so it’s just two separated wires?... It seems I’d only want to cut off the trailer connectors on each end, then pull the 2-wire apart so it’s just two short individual wires (black and white) and cut each wire in the SVS in half to splice in the wires, then take one to the green/yellow and the other to ground. Maybe I’m mixing up all sorts of different options?
Is it possible to use regular 16 AWG braided wire to do this, so I wouldn’t have to try to manage with a really short trailer connector and have to use or trash the 2-wire connectors? I think I made a mistake and thought Option B was cutting off the SVS 2-wire connector, rather than plugging the 2-wire trailer connector into it... I don’t know what I’m talking about anymore haha not that I ever did
Last edited by neuropathy; 06-13-2020 at 03:10 PM.
#284
Like I said you cut it in half. One half gets connected with heat shrink butt splices to the Shuttle Valve Switch Assembly. Then the other half gets connected to the Yellow/Green Wire (vehicle harness side), and then the ground. After that you connect the black rubber ends together.
You DO NOT need to purchase any other wire. Just the 2 Wire Trailer Wire from Oreillys (1 Red Wire & 1 White Wire) 2.99. Cut it in half, connect it to the Shuttle Valve Switch with one side, and the Yellow/Green wire and Ground with the other. Option B is then complete.
You DO NOT need to purchase any other wire. Just the 2 Wire Trailer Wire from Oreillys (1 Red Wire & 1 White Wire) 2.99. Cut it in half, connect it to the Shuttle Valve Switch with one side, and the Yellow/Green wire and Ground with the other. Option B is then complete.
#285
Here are two pics I took this morning.
One shows the clamp for the A/C line under which I placed the ring terminal I put on the end of the white wire from one side of the two-wire trailer connector. I usually have the connector tucked under the ABS modulator but I pulled it out to be visible in the pic.
The other pic shows the connection to the yellow-green wire. I soldered it and it's covered with heat shrink tubing. The connections to the shuttle valve switches inside the SVS housing are also soldered with heat shrink tubing.
Yes.
Hope this helps. Don't overthink this. It's not that complicated.
One shows the clamp for the A/C line under which I placed the ring terminal I put on the end of the white wire from one side of the two-wire trailer connector. I usually have the connector tucked under the ABS modulator but I pulled it out to be visible in the pic.
The other pic shows the connection to the yellow-green wire. I soldered it and it's covered with heat shrink tubing. The connections to the shuttle valve switches inside the SVS housing are also soldered with heat shrink tubing.
Hope this helps. Don't overthink this. It's not that complicated.
Last edited by mln01; 06-14-2020 at 07:37 AM.
#286
Thank you - I think I understand a bit better now. The 2-wire connector gets cut in half so each side is 6” (the one at my O’Reilly’s is only a very short 12” wiring kit). Then the connectors of the trailer kit get connected to each other. The cut wires on one end go to the SVS and the cut wires on the other end go to the green/yellow wire and the AC clamp screw.
When I unclamp that AC clamp, do I need to clean anything up so the ring terminal will make better contact there, or just slap it on?
Are the trailer connectors going to corrode or are they made to stand up to anything that it’ll face in the engine bay? Is it better to just use some 16 AWG braided wire instead of buying a trailing wiring kit?
When I unclamp that AC clamp, do I need to clean anything up so the ring terminal will make better contact there, or just slap it on?
Are the trailer connectors going to corrode or are they made to stand up to anything that it’ll face in the engine bay? Is it better to just use some 16 AWG braided wire instead of buying a trailing wiring kit?
Last edited by neuropathy; 06-14-2020 at 10:43 AM.
#288
Thank you - I think I understand a bit better now. The 2-wire connector gets cut in half so each side is 6” (the one at my O’Reilly’s is only a very short 12” wiring kit). Then the connectors of the trailer kit get connected to each other. The cut wires on one end go to the SVS and the cut wires on the other end go to the green/yellow wire and the AC clamp screw.
Don't overthink it.
Last edited by mln01; 06-14-2020 at 09:05 PM.
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neuropathy (06-18-2020)
#290
Just one last question before I begin... when I’m tying in the green/yellow wire - you cut that wire and run one end into each side of a butt connector, then put one end of the trailer wire going into one end of the butt connector, so you’ve got two wires (green/yellow and one wire from trailer wire) going into one side of a butt connector?
Diagram:
green/yellow wire — butt — green/yellow
one trailer wire
Or do you just cut the green/yellow and connect the end that goes back to the vehicle (not the plug harness), leaving the other end (from the plug) loose?
Or do you pull the green/yellow wire out of the wiring harness plug and connect the end of it to the trailer connector?
Diagram:
green/yellow wire — butt — green/yellow
one trailer wire
Or do you just cut the green/yellow and connect the end that goes back to the vehicle (not the plug harness), leaving the other end (from the plug) loose?
Or do you pull the green/yellow wire out of the wiring harness plug and connect the end of it to the trailer connector?
Last edited by neuropathy; 06-18-2020 at 06:14 PM.