This is brilliant. What gauge wire do folks usually use?

I had replaced the SVS (old one had some brake fluid in it and the rubber parts were a bit worn out it seemed) - 3 amigos returned on the first drive.

Ay ay ay...

 

According to online sources, the standard two-wire trailer connector is 16AWG. But if you're not going to use a two-wire connector just look at the wiring into which you are splicing and make sure whatever you use is that size or larger. The RAVE Electrical Circuit Diagrams manual shows that the YG wire is 0.5mm, which equates to 22AWG.

 

Yeah I was gonna say that yellow/green wire is pretty small on the OEM harness to the Wabco Unit.

 

Thanks y’all. Luckily, as a guitarist and retro computer lover, I’ve developed some skill with a soldering iron. Would it be best to simply buy 16 gauge or 22 gauge wire and perform a military splice into the wire in the SVS, rather than spending more and sacrificing a trailer harness? Or does the harness just make this much easier by plugging in directly and accomplish the goal in a way that wouldn’t have issues with moisture and other damage over time? Is 16 preferable to 22 AWG? I wouldn’t mind soldering the parts in directly if that’s best and I can just use some cheap leftover wire of an appropriate gauge (between 16 and 22?), after I figure this out a bit more. I watched a video that showed the electrical connection in the middle of the SVS being bypassed, apparently, by wiring to the YG wire and then to a grounding point on the vehicle’s body (by sanding down some paint - hopefully it won’t cause too much of an issue with rust). I know some audio guys who solder their speakers into the vehicle, which is actually what I had to do since I had issues with the speaker connectors. With this, I’d assume that if the options are using a connector or soldering, the more solid method is soldering? I’m looking forward to ripping up the ABS again - I was so happy last time I replaced the SVS and went on a drive back from my parents‘ house after, hoping mi amigos wouldn’t return but they came back to mock me some more. Then I started just yelling profanities into the night air as I sped down the highway and pretty much kept that vibe going strong all the way up the mountain to my place.

 

I don't know which video you watched (perhaps you can post a link), but I simply followed the steps originally set out in writing by Josh Salas.

Others have done the Option B bypass soldering the bypass wires directly, without using the two-wire connector, so you can do so if you like. But please note there is no reason to retain the original plug on the shuttle-valve switch (SVS) assembly as at least one YouTube video shows. Once you have the SVSs removed, cut the wires as close as possible to the plug so you have as much of the original wire as possible to work with.

If you choose to solder the bypass wires directly, I'd use the 22AWG wire you have. I see no reason to use 16AWG since the YG wire is 22AWG.

 

This is why Option B needs to be done! The original H1 Hummer had the same WABCO ABS Unit and they're the folks that originally came up with the fix/mod. Hard to believe but I am going to repair the above Shuttle Valve Switch assembly and then perform Option B.

 

To This:

 

Slapped in the repaired Shuttle Valve Switch this afternoon, I used 3/32 Heat shrink over the original wires, spliced the back wire back together, ran the leads out thru the existing holes, then I connected my 2 wire trailer plug to it. Grounded one wire to the AC Tie Down bolt by the PS reservoir (bolt I normally always use for this Mod), and then in about the same area I tapped into the yellow/green wire. Hopped into my friends 03 D2 and bingo no 3 Amigo's looking back at me. Used the Nanocom to verify no stored faults, tested HDC and he's good to go!

 

Do you guys think this wire is safe to use for this work? I’m planning to attach a ring terminal (is there an ideal ring size?) and either use a grounding screw or try to figure out where others are grounding this exactly. I understood something about an AC line, but I’m not certain where it is. I also planned to use some shrink tube and a heat gun that I hope will be safe did the green/yellow wire in the engine bay. I couldn’t figure out a quick connect/disconnect option and I’m starting to think it’ll be fine just hard wired. I was planning to use a silicone caulking in the SVS to cover the soldering work - should be safe and protect from moisture right? Is there a heat concern though?

I’m also wondering if the battery needs to be disconnected for this wiring?

Is silicone wiring safe in the engine bay?

16 Gauge Silicone Wire Spool 50 Feet, Ultra Flexible High Temp 200 deg C 600V 16 AWG Stranded Wire with 252 Strands of Tinned Copper Wire, 25 ft Black and 25 ft Red Wire for Model Battery by MILAPEAK

 

I normally try to go with marine grade wires, cables and connectors.
that’s just me because I despise corrosion.