Don't have the Land Rover code but have a Foxwell NT520 that is reporting "Rear Right Wheel Speed Sensor Electrical Fault" under the ABS diagnostics. Engine codes are giving me Rough Road Signal Implausible. Giving me the four amigos (brake and abs lights)(CEL comes on eventually also bringing the tally to 5!). Also and only at startup the speedometer spikes to around 70, once it went to like 140, never went that fast before, felt like I was sitting still too! lol, Comes back down within 15 seconds and then live data shows all wheel speeds are the same up to 5mph and it locks me out for whatever reason. Not sure if the lockout is a Land Rover thing or a Foxwell thing. I replaced the sensor originally by just plugging in and using RTV to hold the connector together since it was falling apart. Did not work. Came back a week later and spliced together. Cleared codes and worked for the first half mile and then it was Christmas again. The splice was done right with solder and a few layers of heat shrink, staggered splices and then a nice triple layer of electrical tape to finish off. Wheel hub doesn't sound bad. Is the next step to run new wires up to whichever control unit it goes too? Haven't looked at schematics yet...

Coincidently my cruise control stopped working and I am getting secondary air injection codes all around the same time as this. Not sure if there is any relation but it would be great if there was. Cruise control ecu was replaced with used and so was the whole vacuum unit. CC ecu clicks when I hit the buttons and confirmed its reading because when I hold the break and hit the button no click, same when under minimum speed. As for secondary air codes, I am also getting an evap leak code and my downstream short term fuel trims are spiked at 99%, although I'm not sure it is actually affecting my fuel and I'm pretty sure they are only there too measure catalytic converter performance.

I've read some bit about the wheel speed sensor electrical faults and none of them really end with solutions. Hopefully there is one! Let me know if I can provide any more information.

Thanks guys!

 

Wow, that's a lot to unpack. List all your codes here by number and the rave explanation.

As for the ABS codes, if the right rear is giving trouble, start by swapping left and right sensors and see if it follows the sensor. If it stays on the same side, it is either the wiring, the hub, or the SLABS ECU. Next easiest test is probably swapping the pins between the two wheels going to the SLABS ecu - left for right. Again, we are comparing known good vs known bad and trying to figure which on it is. If repinning keeps it at the same wheel, the next swap is hubs left and right. If it still does not move, it is the slabs ECU.

 

I'll grab codes in the morning. Think I'm going to skip swapping the sensor until I do the pin swap since the sensor is new and now spliced in. I'm sure it's possible for it to be bad but it's also reading correctly after it freaks out during the self check. Actually as I am typing this up I am remembering that the speedo doesn't freak out until I engage the starter. Maybe a bad common ground? That doesn't make sense because the starter ground is just the engine. Just spitballing...

A couple questions about SLABS before I dig into the rave...
Does a new one need to be reprogrammed?
Does the SLABS have anything to do with cruise control?
Does SLABS have anything to do with secondary air?
Does SLABS have anything to do with me pouring out 0.5 - 1 quart of oil a week out of my front and rear main seals?

I also feel it might be important to note that due to a combination of my roof leaking again from the front passenger corner that has the TSB and my air conditioning getting clogged my carpets were soaked with water and I had to remove pretty much the entire interior to dry everything out. Fixed a couple rust spots under the carpet but didn't see any electronics down there that would have been affected. Transmission ECU was fine under the driver seat. The ABS, cruise control, secondary air issues all started before I noticed the flooding. I wouldn't doubt that high humidity inside could have messed with some things though. I'll pretend it didn't for now though.

Thanks for your help!

 

Wow, you pack a lot of questions in one post.

I don't think your ABS issues are related to your other issues, except maybe the water intrusion might be affecting them all. Also could be a bad ground, maybe a quick check of those. Low battery voltage also causes lots of things to go wonky.

Regarding the water intrusion, recommend pulling the headliner and leaving it out for several weeks until you get all leaks resolved. Run outside and check it every time you get a heavy rain.

The slabs is completely independent and does not require programming to swap. Nothing to do with SAI or oil leakage likely. I believe cruise is controlled by TCU speed signal not ABS. I have had multiple trucks with ABS codes and cruise still works.

Four amigos (fourth being red brake light) is usually caused by hard sensor fault i.e. no signal at all. Suggest you check fluid level to make sure that is not cause of red brake light.

Recommend posting up SAI codes and working through those with normal is/is not troubleshooting fashion.

Oil leak is most likely not rear main or crucifix seals, those rarely leak that much. See my post here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e2/#post711847

 

A common water leak near the right passengers feet is through the cabin fan air intake. It’s what cooked the ECU on mine, making it scrap price (my son-in-law bought it in this condition from the PO).

 

Efficiency is my game

I'll check for bad ground and low voltage. Going to check RAVE to see if there is a common ground which would make sense.

I was just joking with the oil leak, lol..Okay, sounds good. I'll try the pin swap first SLABS side and see what happens. Any other symptoms of a bad hub? This isn't the first time I've got the code but it usually went away after I clear it. Only got it randomly maybe 2 or 3 times over the course of 2 years.

Fluid level is good and brake light goes away when I clear the code until I drive it and it comes back with the wheel speed sensor code(s).

Secondary air codes haven't hit yet, usually takes a couple cycles to see them in pending and then for them to show in stored.

Current codes as follows:
ECU Codes:
P1590
P1453
P0441
ABS Codes:
Rear Right Sensor output too low
Rear Right sensor electrical failure
Rear Right sensor signal erratic

My unit isn't giving the ABS codes, just descriptions, but maybe if I plug it into the computer and download the codes it'll give me something

Post makes sense. I've already done my valve covers and I snug down the outer bolts once a quarter as they seem to come loose over time. Inner bolts seem to stay snug. Cruciform seals have also been done, albeit can't say they were done perfectly...First time pulling main bearing caps so was all new to me. I did follow a thread on here as described so pretty sure I did it right but can't tell with how much the front main is leaking. Besides the valve covers, the only other leaks I can think of back there are the cam caps(some sort of caps, I believe its for the cams), the cruciform, and the rear main. Going to try and get the front main done soon, just trying to figure out how I am going to hold the engine still while I torque it back to 200 ft lbs. Any ideas appreciated although I was planning on digging into the forum first and if still an issue, different post for different problem.

This would be through the upper air intake/windshield cowling thing correct? Mine is fully intact and haven't noticed anything from the blower. The cowling is a little warped off the windshield, not sure if that effects it. I'll double check but I'm pretty sure it was just the AC clogged and the roof leak which should both be mostly solved. I've got a little drip from the roof still in a heavy rain but going to work that out this weekend.


Let me know if the codes tell you anything. Like I said, going to move forward with the pin swap at SLABS side to see if the codes follow to left side or they stay at the right. If they stay it sounds like it's either the hub or SLABS. Still no idea about the cruise control, probably just going to have to probe all the pins while referencing the RAVE. I'll make a separate thread for that if I need to, really want to get ABS squared away.

 

For those who might stumble on this post looking for an answer to ABS problems:

tried changing wheel speed sensor using existing plug, didn’t work, plug crumbled.

spliced new plug into existing harness, no change to symptoms

respliced using more heat shrink to provide more signal shielding. This helped the problem but came back soon after. Code going away for a little was probably unrelated.

ended up just buying a hub from fcp euro with lifetime warranty and the wheel speed sensor already installed. changed the whole thing out. My truck is pretty not rusted so came out easily but didn’t read rave so wasn’t aware the axle would come with it. Tried using advanced auto 2 jaw puller kit but it broke one of the teeth on the jaw. Had to go borrow a buddies shop press (harbor freight one) and press it out. Also be aware that rave calls for Loctite 648. Green stuff. Said not to handle until parts were locked together enough to handle but I couldn’t tell since it was assembled. It cures without oxygen so I just let it sit for 24 hours before driving.

ABS codes and lights are gone!

Time to fix more stuff!

 

What ? Pouring OUT oil weekly ?

 

Well it ain’t pouring it in lol. Yes I am losing almost a quart a week through my front main seal right now. According to extinct it probably isn’t my rear main and the only other thing leaking is the front. Doesn’t seem to be a bad job but still trying to figure out how to torque the crank bolt back to ~350 as the rave calls without dropping the pan and blocking it with wood

 

You don't need to torque it, engine rotation keeps it in place. Put some silicone on the threads and put it back in and tighten with a normal wrench.

Have you done the PCV mod?