I STRONGLY recommend paying the $100 or so to get a pro to do this for you. I tried DIY and the outcome was not pretty. Overcharging causes the compressor to lock up. Ugly. You need a good set of pressure gauges to do the job correctly, not just the single, low-side pressure gauge that comes with some DIY cans of refrigerant.

 

Differential AC temps across the front outlets are answered in the RAVE manual. It doesn't give you any particular fix though.

 

Hello.
I'd like to jump on the bandwagon because my truck has the same symptoms. Cool air blows on driver side but warm air blows on passenger side. Both zones are set to low. I recently did a headgasket job,, replaced the radiator,, cooling hoses and thermostat and had the system flushed. No known cooling leaks. Heat works good.. But now I want to address the a/c

I went through the A/C diagnosis program as seen in the short video and am getting 2 codes. 21 and 22. According to the chart they would indicate sunlight sensors open or short circuit. Im not knowledgeable on vehicle a/c systems and as long as I've owned a Discovery, never heard of sunlight sensors. What steps should I take to remedy the problem?

 

I have this same problem.

Also codes 21/22 which I don't think is the culprit, rather than's normal.

I think the blend door inside the dash is probably the culprit and it's simply a little stuck. This is just a guess.

 

If you can find a place for $100 bucks sure. Around my area they want $150 to just look at it and then around $300-1400 to fix it depending on the fix. That's a no go for me ha!

Autozone and Oreilley's rent the gauges with high/low for free and the vacuum pump.

I charged mine a few days ago, vacuum pumping the system for 30min, then I shut it off and make sure it holds vaccuum for 15-30 min. If it does, I fill it and I'm done. I've done em on a few vehicles now that have been running a number of years with it holding well. You're right that it can be done wrong but it can be done right too without too much headache if you take your time. Agreed though, don't bother with the little recharge bottle that has a gauge on it.

If your system is low, THERE'S A REASON!. Drain the system, add a little UV dye and charge it, find the leak with a UV flashlight, it's very easy. My last car had a 1 dollar o-ring failure that I spotted in seconds with the glowing dye. Better fix than having to refill it constantly. You'll know you have a leak if it doesn't hold a vacuum.

 

i know this is probably not the issue you are having but i always had way colder ac on one side and couldnt find the problem till i installed my arb bumber and noticed one of the cooling fans infront was unplugged and plugging it back in solved it. like i said its a very specific thing that i doubt but never know

 

I think i misunderstood when to perform the diagnostic test with the climate control system. I heard that your suppose to do it when/while the sun is shinning on the solar sensor located on the dash. I performed the diagnostic check of the climate control system in the shade... will try again tomorrow.

I'm cool trying to drain and refill the a/c system myself and I did see the bottled A/C Pro for $30 in Walmart. So other than thatbI just need to rent a high/low Guage from autozone and viola? Is there a step by step on the procedure for D2? A section of the rave screenshoted perhaps?

 

This is a video I hope can help and I attached a screenshot of the refrigerant system

 

Make sure when you are doing this diagnostic test you are in direct sunlight. Years ago I did the test in my garage and had a couple of codes... 21 & 22 I think. I did it out in the sunlight and had 00.