AC compressor bearing squeal? Related to no refrigerant?
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AC compressor bearing squeal? Related to no refrigerant?
Man this has been frustrating.. trying to get a disco w/ major front end collision damage back on the road. It's drivable but I'm working out the gremlins now. When I replaced an alternator that was stolen during repairs (wtf?) I developed a squeal - figured it was related to soaking idler pulley w/ PB Blast.
Well last night I replaced all my idler pulleys ($20 steel tensioner pulley cross-referenced at autoparts store, and replacement bearing for the $140 80mm one) - 70mm I just got from LR since it was cheap.
SQUEAL IS STILL THERE.
I now have it pinpointed (75% sure) to the AC compressor. I've found some threads showing a failed nose bearing, which is my first guess. BUT...
After the crash, the AC system has been dry, albeit sealed w/ all lines etc connected. I know that the lube inside the refrigerant is required for the AC compressor which crossed my mind as a failure mode this AM BUT without the clutch engaged, there should be NO way for the compressor to spin anyways right? Even if I forgot to press econ (plus it's been single-digits here) the pressure switches wouldn't allow the compressor to engage.
2 options to fix it:
1 - just replace the bearing, which I'm pretty sure it is. Problem w/ this route is that BEFORE the crash, while I let her sit for a few months, my AC was gone and I couldn't get compressor to turn on. I'm guessing an o-ring somewhere dried up, or something died in the compressor. There's a chance the compressor is dead anyways.
2 - new parts car I found about an hour away has a compressor that I can probably grab for $30. Considering the bearing for option 1 is probably $20, the extra $10 to insure a decently working AC compressor come summer time seems like a good investment - at the very least, if I still have a leak when I go to pressurize the system, I can rule out a component.
Questions about AC system:
Should I wait to install the new compressor till I can pressurize the system? Same w/ new air drier? I'm guessing even if I hurry and seal the new ones quickly the lines are still at atmosphere which has some amount of humidity in it.
Just hoping the stupid system doesn't leak. I have rear seat AC and it literally adds twice as many leak points and potential problems (pressure switches, etc etc)
Well last night I replaced all my idler pulleys ($20 steel tensioner pulley cross-referenced at autoparts store, and replacement bearing for the $140 80mm one) - 70mm I just got from LR since it was cheap.
SQUEAL IS STILL THERE.
I now have it pinpointed (75% sure) to the AC compressor. I've found some threads showing a failed nose bearing, which is my first guess. BUT...
After the crash, the AC system has been dry, albeit sealed w/ all lines etc connected. I know that the lube inside the refrigerant is required for the AC compressor which crossed my mind as a failure mode this AM BUT without the clutch engaged, there should be NO way for the compressor to spin anyways right? Even if I forgot to press econ (plus it's been single-digits here) the pressure switches wouldn't allow the compressor to engage.
2 options to fix it:
1 - just replace the bearing, which I'm pretty sure it is. Problem w/ this route is that BEFORE the crash, while I let her sit for a few months, my AC was gone and I couldn't get compressor to turn on. I'm guessing an o-ring somewhere dried up, or something died in the compressor. There's a chance the compressor is dead anyways.
2 - new parts car I found about an hour away has a compressor that I can probably grab for $30. Considering the bearing for option 1 is probably $20, the extra $10 to insure a decently working AC compressor come summer time seems like a good investment - at the very least, if I still have a leak when I go to pressurize the system, I can rule out a component.
Questions about AC system:
Should I wait to install the new compressor till I can pressurize the system? Same w/ new air drier? I'm guessing even if I hurry and seal the new ones quickly the lines are still at atmosphere which has some amount of humidity in it.
Just hoping the stupid system doesn't leak. I have rear seat AC and it literally adds twice as many leak points and potential problems (pressure switches, etc etc)
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