Ac Compressor Fan not running
#1
07-01-2016, 08:01 PM
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ac Compressor Fan not running
So I am a new 03 d2 se owner, when I recently bought it, I noticed the ac compressor fan was not spinning and ac was not very cold. with little diag, the fan motor was seized. So i bought another used fan, and it spins fine, but I can't seem to get it to run. Currently outside temp is 86 and the ac was on Lo ac not econ. I had it running approx 10 mins and it never kicked on. I have tested the fuses both under the hood and under the dash. Unless someone can tell me a specific fuse, I looked at all the ones it may have been, but could have overlooked one.
josh
josh
#3
07-04-2016, 08:59 PM
Recovery Vehicle
#4
07-04-2016, 10:05 PM
Should be on if temp OAT 86 F. Wiring diagram attached.
......
Electric cooling fan switching points:
For A/C system:
⇒ On When vehicle speed is 50 mph (80 km/h) or less and ambient
temperature is 28 °C (82 °F) or more
⇒ Off When vehicle speed increases to (62.5 mph (100 km/h) or ambient
temperature decreases to 25 °C (77 °F)
For engine cooling during normal running:
⇒ On 100 °C (212 °F)
⇒ Off 94.5 °C (202 °F)
For engine cooling at ignition off (to counteract heat
soak):
⇒ On If, within 10 seconds of ignition off, intake air temperature is 60 °C (140
°F) or more and engine coolant temperature is 110 °C (230 °F) or more
⇒ Off After 10 minutes or if engine coolant temperature decreases to 100 °C
(212 °F)
For A/C system:
⇒ On When vehicle speed is 50 mph (80 km/h) or less and ambient
temperature is 28 °C (82 °F) or more
⇒ Off When vehicle speed increases to (62.5 mph (100 km/h) or ambient
temperature decreases to 25 °C (77 °F)
For engine cooling during normal running:
⇒ On 100 °C (212 °F)
⇒ Off 94.5 °C (202 °F)
For engine cooling at ignition off (to counteract heat
soak):
⇒ On If, within 10 seconds of ignition off, intake air temperature is 60 °C (140
°F) or more and engine coolant temperature is 110 °C (230 °F) or more
⇒ Off After 10 minutes or if engine coolant temperature decreases to 100 °C
(212 °F)
#5
07-05-2016, 06:35 PM
You can do the following:
I assume that your temperature sensor is OK because otherwise you would have no temp signal in your dash.
To diagnose:
Get a light tester like or similar to this:
http://vehiclefixer.com/wp-content/u...test_light.jpg
Then, connect the red wire to 12V (cigarrete lighter maybe) and the black wire to the green-white cable which connects the Relay Fan to the ECU. The ecu is located in the foot space, front passenger side, behind the plastic upholstery. You can deatach the ECU from the wall and find the wire. The wire is connected to the Connector C0636 pin number 31. You can check in the electric manual which is the connector. Then, insert a needle in the green white cable and connect the red clamp of the tester. Insulate with electric tape and go for a ride, better if it is uphill.
If at a certain point, the tester light turns on, it means that the ECU is sending the right signal to the relay. If there is no signal at any time, the problem is either the ECU, temp sensor or anything else. As soon as the engine gets hot, the ECU enables an earth path to activate the relay fan.
To test the if the signal reaches the relay (you can start with this step also).
Disconnect the relay and insert a needle in the connector of the green white cable and do the same test described above. If the tester light turns on, then the problem is the relay, the fan, the cabling, or the earth connection.
To test the fan cabling and earth connection, you can insert a wire with 12V to the back of the relay fan connector (black-Brown wire) or to the fan connector located in the front of the car (connector C0005-1, black connector, round, located in the passenger side, in the front, close to the radiator.) If the fan turns on, it means the fan and the cabling is OK and the problem is something between the testing points.
The relay could be faulty also but you can test it also quickly. You can peel a wire, connect one tip to the negative side of the battery and the other tip to the green white wire (connector 50570 Pin 2). The fan should turn on right away if the relay is ok. You should also hear a "Clank" sound of the relay activating.
Any or all of those tests will led you to find the faulty part of the circuit.
Hope it helps!
I assume that your temperature sensor is OK because otherwise you would have no temp signal in your dash.
To diagnose:
Get a light tester like or similar to this:
http://vehiclefixer.com/wp-content/u...test_light.jpg
Then, connect the red wire to 12V (cigarrete lighter maybe) and the black wire to the green-white cable which connects the Relay Fan to the ECU. The ecu is located in the foot space, front passenger side, behind the plastic upholstery. You can deatach the ECU from the wall and find the wire. The wire is connected to the Connector C0636 pin number 31. You can check in the electric manual which is the connector. Then, insert a needle in the green white cable and connect the red clamp of the tester. Insulate with electric tape and go for a ride, better if it is uphill.
If at a certain point, the tester light turns on, it means that the ECU is sending the right signal to the relay. If there is no signal at any time, the problem is either the ECU, temp sensor or anything else. As soon as the engine gets hot, the ECU enables an earth path to activate the relay fan.
To test the if the signal reaches the relay (you can start with this step also).
Disconnect the relay and insert a needle in the connector of the green white cable and do the same test described above. If the tester light turns on, then the problem is the relay, the fan, the cabling, or the earth connection.
To test the fan cabling and earth connection, you can insert a wire with 12V to the back of the relay fan connector (black-Brown wire) or to the fan connector located in the front of the car (connector C0005-1, black connector, round, located in the passenger side, in the front, close to the radiator.) If the fan turns on, it means the fan and the cabling is OK and the problem is something between the testing points.
The relay could be faulty also but you can test it also quickly. You can peel a wire, connect one tip to the negative side of the battery and the other tip to the green white wire (connector 50570 Pin 2). The fan should turn on right away if the relay is ok. You should also hear a "Clank" sound of the relay activating.
Any or all of those tests will led you to find the faulty part of the circuit.
Hope it helps!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
twilightcall
Discovery II
14
03-04-2018 06:55 PM
lrover2
Discovery II
10
07-18-2012 07:30 AM
2k2wranglerx
Discovery II
3
03-15-2006 05:05 PM