id say clear it, see what comes back... then double check the electrical harness that runs above the rear motor along the hood line... they crimp and rub/short at the t connectors where the o2 sensor cables merge in.

 

Okay will do. Also I have been seeing a lot of issues are sometimes fixed by changing wires and spark plugs. That will probably be the next thing I do. Any recommendation on size and brand of both?

 

Cheap Champion coppers so you don't feel bad about changing them often, 8mm high quality wires.

 

Totally agree, or the 3071 single plats. The 3071's are generally the same money as the 71 coppers @$1.50 on sale. The champion number for the Genuine RC11PYPB4's is a 7070 and generally run around $5 instead of $18 for the ones in the green and white box. They even have RC11PYPB4 marked on the plug.

 

Just an update on what I found

I checked the fuse box and realized the #2 was blown just like someone has previously said. So this cured my acceleration problems immediately and ended up being a quick $4 fix.

As for the rough idling, I did the seafoam induction cleaning as well as in the gas tank and it seems to have helped a little along with the throttle body cleaning.

The next issue is I am leaking power steering fluid. However, I already know that my power stump isn't working and am getting it fixed this Friday. I just didn't want the leak to be from one of the hoses and not have the part so how can I check this?

I'm almost done with the mechanical repairs that the last owner neglected so I can get my lift and tires!

 

Power steering pump****

 

Hi had same problem with picking-up speed, no power and high fuel consumtion 50L/ 100 kilo, many elc./mec. checked it- out, some said fuel pump/fillter, plugs, injectors need cleaning finally an arminian electrition got it solved, he replaced the ' flu-meter' i think that what is called it controls the intake amount of fule to be burned.
Now it drives like a mounster and making 125L/ 100 kilo meter

 

You think it's called the flu meter? I tried to look for that on here and didn't find anything because I have had a drastic drop in fuel economy.

 

That would be the MAF, mass airflow sensor, or mass air flow meter, which tells computer how many pounds of air are coming in, so computer can adjust electric pulses to injectors and determine how long they should stay open each time they squirt. This is done to maintain an ideal ratio of air and fuel. These can be cleaned (when cold) with a spray product made for that purpose, one brand is CRC. Normally you would want to clean the throttle body as well.

The MAF sensor is not too pricey for a D2, but can be $1500 for a D1. Handle with care...

You would also want to use your data reading scanner to be sure your thermostat is not stuck open and engine is only getting up to 150 F or so.

 

sounds exactly like what i had... fuse 2 would keep popping, which the sai pumps, o2's and maf sensor are also on if i remember right, causing all kinds of errors and running issues... none of the sensors where at fault, it was the harness at the rear of the motor. remove the t connectors, open up the plastic coverings and jiggle the wires around, look for obvious breaks, bare sections, kinks etc... sometimes just repositioning them and not locking the t back in place fully will solve the short and keep the fuse from popping or volate leaking into the wrong circuits causing errors in teh ecm's readings of the sensor/sensors and resolving the problem. if not, you might want to get a voltmeter or dedicated short detector and dedicate a few hours chasing electrical gremlins. also check the wires that run from the maf/sai on the drivers side that run under the intake manifold channel, the plastic rotts out and the wires might be shorting on that, each other or be crimped somewhere or burned up...and double check all your grounds, disconnect them, clean them, and remount cleaned up very well.