lights Amber at the moment, but has never come on before during a drive. last time i drove it was sunday in some pretty heavy rain fall here in Dallas.

went out to just start up the car and let it warm up. idling in the garage and watching the Torque app for coolant temps, was around 150 and no lights, checked back again at around 170 and noticed the ACE light on, or the light with the vehicle and the arrows pointing left and right.

i took the ACE cap off to check the fluid and its up to level and while idling it appears to be cycling threw the container.

felt the 4 lines that go into the valve body or what ever it is under the passenger side door near the frame rail and two of the four felt a little warm were as the other two didnt and the two going to the rear felt cold too.

the pump feels warm, but not any hotter then the alternator, maybe a little warmer then the AC pump.

iv not touched anything on the ACE system sins buying the car in Feb.

i guess flushing the system is just pulling out whats in the resovor and then adding new in then run the car at idle. shut off, pull more out and add more new then run the car again for a bit and keep doing this many times?

 

oh, and noticed that the cars been converted to rear springs from the air bags it had ones. i had that light come on ones on me too on the highway. but on the drive home (45 mins) it never came back. so not sure this will or could mess with the ACE system at all?

 

You can have the SLS disabled if someone has a T4 or handheld capable of programming LR D2 Features. The ACE system has yaw sensors attached to it I believe and that could be causing the light vs the $$$ pump.

 

ya, i may purchase the nanocom sins i cant find anyone in Dallas area that has one. for like $430 shipping is what the nanocom will cost. but it seems to be a handy device for programing keys, and servicing the brakes and ACE as well.

whats the SLS stand for?

 

according to the manual, im in the warmer climate so i should be using the Texaco cold climate power assisted steering fluid, Dexron 11 or Dexron 111 non-synthetic fluid. iv never changed power steering fluid before so i just look at the bottles that advertise Dexron 11 or Dexron 111? or what are others putting in there ACE systems?

 

well just went for a 5 mile drive and in the turns it seems like maybe, the vehicle sounds quieter. there i think, use to be a slight power steering pump wine in turns before. where now i don't seem to notice it. light stayed amber the entire time, also the pump does not feel any warmer then the alternator and the valve block under the passenger seat was warm, and the two bottom lines going into it from the front side were warmer, but the two lines above it and the two lines going out the back of the valve block were cool. like maybe the block is not allowing fluid to flow to the front and rear hydrolic rams mounted to the sway bars.

also, the resolver with the ace and power steering lids, its two completely separate chambers or is there just a divider in the middle but the fluid can run over the top to spill into the other side? pulling the caps on both the steering and ACE shows the fluid is moving around inside the reservoir two chambers. so the pump may be good but something is up with the valve block?

 

Self Leveling Suspension = SLS. The reservoir is two separate fluids or they'd have just slapped one lid on it. The light on means something is malfunctioned in the ACE system. If a sensor faults it prevents the system from working properly. Not sure if it has a low pressure switch on the hydraulic side of it or not.

My 99 D2 I just bought is the first D2 I've owned which has both ACE and SLS. My pump makes a little brrr brrr brrr at idle live every 30 seconds, but I always remember the LR Tech's saying people complained about the pumps having a certain sound to them.

I was at a local LKQ yard the other day and I found an ACE equipped D2. The #1 thing missing was the darn pump lol. If my ACE kicks the bucket I'll just convert it back to the standard setup I have on my 03 parts D2. Same goes for the SLS if it fails. I'll just convert it to coils and call it a day.

 

I had a similar problem and it ended up being the sensor under the passenger side. Easy swap took about 5 minutes. Love the ace system.

 

under the passenger side? where exactly? like under the glove box? under the seat? under the car near the frame like the valve body? is there a way to test the sensor with a multi meter? where did you buy your sensor from?

those with working ACE systems, after a drive, can you feel the hard lines from the valve block and tell me if all 6 of hem feel warm? my 5 mile drive only resulted the two bottom lines warm and the two upper lines and 2 rear lines were not warm at all.

 

ok, so looks like the lower sensor is on the frame rail below the passenger side door.

some more reading online, it could also be the Pressure transducer maybe. if i understand the manual correctly, it controls the pressure from the pump to the valve block and may explain why the hard lines from the pump to the valve block are warm, but the hard lines going from the valve block to the front and rear suspension is not warm, like no fluid is running threw the system.

but again, it could just be the lower sensor as well and the system has locked it self in to locked bars condition.

still cant seem to find the Pressure transducer/ or the lower sensor on Atlantic British's site or rovers north.