Add RH keyed entry to LHD DII?
Just moving the driver side lock actuator to the passenger door. So swapping actuators so you push button twice to open driver side.
Is Disco Mike still around? All his posts are years old I think
Is Disco Mike still around? All his posts are years old I think
Testing completed. Successfully.
On the DII, turning the key in the lock unlocks the door manually, but it also grounds a circuit that signals the BCU to energize the circuits that activate the door lock motors.
The idea is to splice into the wire that runs from the BCU to the unlock side of the door switch. If we do that we can mimic turning the key by grounding the spliced wire at a location different from the door lock switch.
I studied the wiring diagrams and found that the easiest place to splice into the wire is on the driver side behind the kick panel. I did so with this connector, and trimmed down a half inch or so of the insulation at one end of a length of 14 AWG lamp wire (one strand only) so that it could be inserted into the 18-22 AWG splice connector. I then routed the lamp wire through the open window to the front of the truck. I next locked the doors with the keyless entry fob and then touched the other end of the lamp wire to a ground. The driver door opened immediately and a second touch of the lamp cord to ground opened all the other doors. Eureka! And no alarm.
Next is to find a way to route the lamp wire (or better yet, a length of 18 gauge or smaller primary wire) through the firewall with the rest of the harness to a point on or near the front bumper or somewhere else where it can be accessed but can remain hidden and secure until needed, if ever. I expect this can be done without too much trouble because I've read about others wiring offroad light systems, etc. through the firewall.
The wire could also be connected to a marine-grade, momentary contact SPST pushbutton switch mounted in an obscure location, but I think having a random, exposed wire hanging or taped or zip-tied in an obscure place near a ground location would be a more secure solution, less likely than a switch to pique the interest of someone else who might find it.
It's true that this method will not allow the doors to be unlocked if door lock is not working and the battery is dead, but in those instances it's well documented to go under the truck and energize the systems by attaching the a positive lead from a battery charger or jumper cables to the positive terminal on the starter and then attach the negative lead to the frame or some other grounding point.
Comments welcomed, especially with respect to routing a wire through the firewall.
On the DII, turning the key in the lock unlocks the door manually, but it also grounds a circuit that signals the BCU to energize the circuits that activate the door lock motors.
The idea is to splice into the wire that runs from the BCU to the unlock side of the door switch. If we do that we can mimic turning the key by grounding the spliced wire at a location different from the door lock switch.
I studied the wiring diagrams and found that the easiest place to splice into the wire is on the driver side behind the kick panel. I did so with this connector, and trimmed down a half inch or so of the insulation at one end of a length of 14 AWG lamp wire (one strand only) so that it could be inserted into the 18-22 AWG splice connector. I then routed the lamp wire through the open window to the front of the truck. I next locked the doors with the keyless entry fob and then touched the other end of the lamp wire to a ground. The driver door opened immediately and a second touch of the lamp cord to ground opened all the other doors. Eureka! And no alarm.
Next is to find a way to route the lamp wire (or better yet, a length of 18 gauge or smaller primary wire) through the firewall with the rest of the harness to a point on or near the front bumper or somewhere else where it can be accessed but can remain hidden and secure until needed, if ever. I expect this can be done without too much trouble because I've read about others wiring offroad light systems, etc. through the firewall.
The wire could also be connected to a marine-grade, momentary contact SPST pushbutton switch mounted in an obscure location, but I think having a random, exposed wire hanging or taped or zip-tied in an obscure place near a ground location would be a more secure solution, less likely than a switch to pique the interest of someone else who might find it.
It's true that this method will not allow the doors to be unlocked if door lock is not working and the battery is dead, but in those instances it's well documented to go under the truck and energize the systems by attaching the a positive lead from a battery charger or jumper cables to the positive terminal on the starter and then attach the negative lead to the frame or some other grounding point.
Comments welcomed, especially with respect to routing a wire through the firewall.
Last edited by mln01; Jan 10, 2022 at 12:59 PM.
very interesting. I had no idea the door locks worked that way.
The only safe safe place I can think off to run that wire would be under the truck somewhere, but to use it, you'd have to get on the ground
The only safe safe place I can think off to run that wire would be under the truck somewhere, but to use it, you'd have to get on the ground


