That should only happen if you bolt the D1 shifter to the cover plate. If you don't connect the two together, and just leave the shifter unit bolted to the top of the transfer case, the vibration noise should be reduced substantially.

 

Keep your eyes open at the local junk yards for a 2004 - that way you can get EVERYTHING at once for a great price. I paid less than $100 for everything. Get the shifter and plate and while you're at it grab the SLABs unit and avoid triggering the dash lights if you forget and leave the center lock engaged when you turn off the truck. Gets super annoying - ask me how I know

 

I'm still looking for a SLABS ecu for mine. Several come up on Ebay, but the sellers typically don't know if they came from a donor vehicle that had a functioning SLS or rear coils. Mine has SLS so I want to find one from a vehicle that had SLS otherwise it will have to be programmed by a dealer or buy an ODBII reader that has that function.

 

Programming for SLS or coils is a simple task using a Nanocom. A forum member offers one for rent for a very reasonable price.

 

Made me pull my photos. Didn't bolt to the cover plate. I imagine it would be much worse if I had. Still brings sound into the cabin.
Occurs to me: somewhere on here I had a conversation about what the fat part of the shifter was for. Pretty sure it's a vibration damper.
That's why I think the engineers were aware of the noise implications and were doing what they could to stop it. Hence my opinion about the cable setup on the 03-04.
I wonder how much the decision to remove the CLD was driven by cabin noise considerations? Always just described as it being just that they thought TC would do, but...

 

It's really strange that you're getting so much noise. I noticed no difference between my pre-CDL case and when I added the locking front output. It was also the same when I added the D1 lever to my '99 truck -- no change in the noise level.

 

Did you not install the rubber boots that is supposed to cover the tcase shifter and seal everything up? I noticed a big difference in noise levels running the truck before & after the boot was on during the installation process.

 

I have a 2000 and installed a 2004 linkage. Got the linkage on eBay for $150( actual auction, couldn’t believe I got it that cheap). It was plug and play. I’ve never done a linkage from a D1 but once I got in there I was glad I hadn’t. I am no fabricator but I couldn’t imagine the hassle of retrofitting the D1 linkage, it’s so damn tight under there I was glad all I had to do was install the linkage plate and connect the cable. I agree with using sheet metal screws for reinstalling the plate, it just zips right on. As for taking the plate off, drill through the rivets and get an actual grinder and finish them off. Anyone that says it can be done with a dremel hasn’t actually performed this installation. Not exaggerating here, you go through 100’s of those little dremel grinding disks getting those rivets out.

 

I’ve got slabs units or pretty much anything else if you still need anything.

 

A bit of a thread hijack, but... resonator delete, I just saw the pipe for this on Lucky8. It isn't obnoxious on the freeway? This is always my worry when messing with exhaust. I love a throatier sound, but don't want obnoxious or a drone at cruise speeds.

Bypass your throttle body warmer!!! DO NOT do this in cold climates. I see you are from TN, so you can get away with it. I had to do it on our old '04 when the nipple broke off the coolant reservoir. I thought no big deal until we were driving on the highway and I tried to kick off the cruise and we just kept going. I had to slam on the brakes and fight the engine to slow down for the corner. Kind of scary with the whole family in the vehicle.