Howdy. I am a new 2000 Disco II owner and new to the forum. I am in the process of adding off road accs, but freely admit I have no experience in it, but can't wait to learn. In this tyro's mind, I would like to guard as much off the items underneath the vehicle as possible, but don't know if that is overkill. Is it better to get sliders and forgo some of the undercarriage guards? I am definitely wanting to get an ARB bumper or other Off road bumper. Rovertym? I can't afford a tank, so I thought I would turn this into one, plus tanks don't have leather. Any thoughts, guidance, or wake up comments would be appreciated. Thanks.



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As far as protection goes, I'd always recommend a HD bumper as you said, ARBs are OK, but they restrict your approach angle even more than the stock bumper, and some people say they aren't the strongest you can get. Rovertym is great, hicountryoffroad looks to be very strong, and the price is right, but some people have said that they don't look too clean. I'll be getting a HCOR bumper anyway.

If you're really paranoid about smashing something on a rock you could get diff guards and a steering guard (usually easily made on your own if you have access to a welder). Other than that and rock sliders you shouldn't need too much more protection. Here in NJ we have nothing but mud pits so I'm just getting a bumper, I won't see much use for diff/steering guards till I get out to Moab in a few years.

Oh and just in case you didn't know your truck requires premium gas, the best you can get is best for your truck. And you also should have your front drive shaft rebuilt if it hasn't all ready been done with greasable u joints and a new centering ball. They came from the factory un greasable and they can eventually fail and if you're optimistic you'll have some nice aerodynamic holes in your $7000 transmission

Welcome to the forum

 

The weakest part underneath ANY landy is the steering linkage, if you fit a heavy duty bumper first you will expose it even more. So, imo fit a steering guard as the first acc.

Depending on where you go offroad will depend on whether or not you need diff guards or not. If you only play in mud then teh diff will clear their own paths, if its rocky, or you go wading when you dont know whats in there then they are DEF a good idea.

For me, fit front and rear diff guards and a steering guard first, then you dont have to worry.

Diff guards, well none are as good as the QT services ones imo and steering guards, well lots of choice out there, but get one that bolts to existing chassis points AND has a re-inforcement behind the plate, either welded or bolted, if you don't it will bend easily.

 

Crap. I just got it back from the shop. I had the Christmas Tree lit up. When they got it up on the lift the right front wheel was completely goobered up. The pad hada 1/2" deep grove on the non disc facing side. I don't know ifthe prev. owner got hit on the wheel and drove it into the tie rod end or what but it was crazy looking. I wasn't getting grinding becasue it hadn't gotten into the steel, but it was wallowing at low speed because it had caused a problem with the hub. Anyway, my mechanic, Jim Peraud, who is like the only certified indy Land Rover guy I can find close to me and is awesome, was going to send it to Land Rover becasue he had never seen anything like it.

I hadn't heard of the Steering issue. Well, in for a penny, in for a pound. Thanks.

 

Urban, thanks for the reply and the info. Do you have any recs on where to get the steering linkage guards or links? I know rovers north, atlantic british, and a few others but not many. I appreciate everyone jumping on the thread so quick, my employer may not but what the hay.

 

I agree with UP, steering guard, the rest is a maybe.
Are you going to be rock crawling or just trails?

 

Instead of a steering guard, you can also consider upgrading the actual weak parts. The drag link, tie rod and panhard rod (in that order) should be upgraded. Call Keith at RoverTracks. For the diff guards you can't beat what QT Services has to offer. Call Justin at Lucky8LLC, he's one of if not the only QT distributor in the US. Get the front drive shaft rebuilt first and foremost. Look for a local drive line shop and ask them how much to re-build (and balance) a drive shaft with a double cardon. Shouldn't be any more than $200. As stated earlier the ARB front bumper for a D2 isn't the best option for an off road bumper. You may not be able to afford a tank, but having an RTE front bumper will make you think you're in one!!

 

Looking at the prices of that "uprated" stuff, a steering guard looks the cheaper option imo.

Is it not better to preventan impactthan to hope the item withstands the impact ?

 

Beecheril,

IMO....MODs are great and all but if you have not done any preventative maintenance, I would recommend you do a search for Disco Mike's 60k miles service and do that 1st. I would bring your rig up to service first and foremost. Then go nuts with whatever add-ons you want. It makes no sense to buy toys if your rig is in need of some TLC under the hood.

And to give you a head start on bringing your maintenance up to date, here's the list Disco Mike recommends. (Thanks Disco Mike)

Do a search for Seafoam or PM me and I'll walk you through how to do it.

This is the parts list for a 60,000 mile service or a high mileage used truck, the way I do it.
1 Oil filter, K&N 3001
1 Air filter
6 Qts of engine oil
12 Qts of ATF
7 Qts of 80/90W gear oil
2 Qts of Brake fluid
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive
1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive
1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray
1 Can Of Brake cleaner
8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platium Plus 4's
1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires
1 Serpentine belt if not yet replaced
2 Bottles of SeaFoam


60,000 Mile Service or Major Service for High Mileage Used Vehicle just purchased
Bleed the brakes
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive
Flush the coolant system
Do an engine flush before changing the oil
Do an induction cleaning
Clean the throttle body
Add fuel additive to full gas tank
Change both of the diffs fluid
Change the t/case oil
Replace the plugs and wires
Replace the air filter
Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.