There is a temp sending unit for the temp gauge and a coolant temp sensor for the ECU.
When the engine is cold it needs more fuel and if the coolant temp sensor reads cold then the ECU enrich's the fuel air mixture, when it warms up it leans out the mixture, just like setting the choke on a old car and then releasing the choke after the engine warms up.
So, with the coolant temp sensor out of range the ECU does not know the engine is cold and will not enrich the fuel air mixture so it will die because it is not getting enough fuel to run.
Try and start your lawnmower in the moring without setting the choke or priming it, it wont run will it?
Same thing with your Rover, only bigger.
Replace your coolant temp sensor.

 

Will do. Thanks for the explanation spike. That makes complete sense. I was assuming that the p0118 meant that it was getting a faulty high signal from the ECTS (i.e., that it was cold rather than warm). I guess I just had it backwards.

By the way, do you think the temp sensor would also cause the P0116?

 

Yes, I belive that both those codes are for the same unit.
You know it is bad, replace it, clear the codes and see what, if any, comes back.

 

Does the rave manual have a section explaining the codes? I've looked but haven't found anything.

 

No it does not.

 

Does the ECTS send the signal to the in-dash temperature guage or is there another sensor that does so? In other words, if my ECTS is bad, do I need to worry that the temp shown on the instrument panel is wrong?

Paul

 

You will need to look up in RAVE where it is located.

 

gotcha. My reading comprehension needs as much work as my rover.

 

LOL, dont worry about it, I swear I have ADD, anything more than a few sentances and I lose interest.

 

Just want to give an update on the situation in case anyone reads this down the road (I hate when people fix their problem and no one knows how because they never update their post). So after I got these codes and was waiting on the sensor to come in, I decided to test my fuel pressure just to rule that out as my starting problem. I picked up a pressure tester for about $45 bucks from the local auto parts store, came home, hooked it to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and found out I was only getting about 20 psi before startup and about 27 while it was running.

Since the pressure regulators don't seem to go out as much as the pumps, I forked over the cash and bought another pump. After changing it out, the truck is starting great and I'm getting my 37 psi in the fuel line. I still haven't replaced the sensor. I will probably do it in the next week or so, but it looks like my starting issues stemmed from a fading fuel pump.